External cat5e run - mystery issue

Soldato
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Liverpool
Today I finally bit the bullet and got sick of the patchy wifi in the back bedroom. I have a Unifi UAP AC PRO downstairs, but my 2012 MacBook Pro is only 2x2 wireless N and the speeds are hit and miss (about 200Mbps on 5GHz).

I ordered 20m of external grade solid core cat5e, 2x dual port cat5e faceplates, a krone punchdown tool and some other bits and bobs (clips etc). After a couple of hours I'm happy to say that I have a very neat 2x cat5e cable run from downstairs, out of the rear wall, up the brick and into my bedroom at socket height. All punched down neatly, no mess, clipped tidily and it all looks very smart and 'professional'.

Here's a rough ASCII sketch to give you the idea of the new network layout. The forum removes white space, but as you may gather the sub-sections underneath the first line are feeding off the switches, with the second switch being plugged into the last port of the first to chain them together. Both switches are TP-Link gigabit metal cased ones.

<<Unifi AP>> --- <PoE switch> --- <Intel G4560, 4GB, router firewall> --- <VM SH3> --- <Internet>
|Desktop PC
|Printer
|3x 8MP/4k Hikvision CCTV cams
|Synology DiskStation
||||<Second switch>
|2x cable runs to upstairs via faceplate
|TiVO v6
|Smart TV
|ChromeCast

I was very pleased to finally have everything wired up. Once it was all done though, horror of horrors - the 'left' of the two ports doesn't work. If I connect to the 'right' of the two ports it connects almost instantly at 1Gbe and works flawlessly.

Nightmare scenarios running through my head, I removed the front plates and checked both boxes. All wires in the correct place, all seemingly punched down OK, nothing touching or warping the small PCB etc. I got my cable tester out and connected them to each end of the run (via pre-verified cables plugged into the ports). BOTH ports show all 8 cables are working. Yet one port doesn't give my laptop a connection! :confused:

The only possible clue is that when I test my normal pre-made cable (the one I plug from my MacBook Pro to the faceplate), all 8 lights glow in order as you'd expect. However when I run the tester through either of the two faceplate ports, all 8 lights glow BUT the order is all messed up. I didn't write the actual result down but it was something like 1, 5, 7, 2, 8, 4, 6, 3 (or whatever). All 8 do light up, for both ports, but as I said in a weird order. Both ports do the exact same, so it's not a dodgy punch down on the 'dead' port.

The faceplate itself has a strange order on the wiring sticker: Brown/White, Brown, Green/White, Green, Orange/White, Orange, Blue/White, Blue. That's the only option available even though there are four of the stickers on the PCB. I followed it and triple checked all the wires are as per the diagram, and that's all fine. The order isn't standard (for whatever reason), but still - one of the ports works perfectly anyway.

VlZjNlg.jpg


Since all 8 lights still fire up, it doesn't seem like a broken pair or cable? Yet the port is effectively dead. Could it just be as simple as a faulty faceplate module perhaps? Even then, I'd expect the lights on the tester to be dead, not firing. When I plug in the laptop to the 'dead' port, usually nothing happens but sometimes it cycles rapidly between connected/not connected/connected/not connected and it only says 100Mbps rather than 1Gbe.

It's not the end of the world, as one working cable is fine and after all it's part of the reason we run two at a time. I can always throw another switch upstairs if needs be in future. It's bloody annoying after all that hard work though! Does anyone have any clues as to why it's acting like this? Surely dead is dead, rather than random rapid cycling and 100Mbps connections then nothing. To my limited knowledge it's suggestive of a bad punch down but all looks good and the cable tester seems to dispute this. I'm lost. Answers on a postcard please. :(
 
What does the other end of the connection look like?

BTW you should have the wires still twisted together right up to where they punch down not flapping in the wind.
 
My bet is you're mixing standards without realising it, that's why you can only negotiate 100mbit
 
What does the other end of the connection look like?

BTW you should have the wires still twisted together right up to where they punch down not flapping in the wind.

Yes, I did know that but unfortunately being a total noob at this I was wary of cutting off too much at first and then having not enough wire left to do the job. I just untwisted the pairs, lined the wires up and punched down with spare in case anything went wrong - which it did, once or twice. The other end of the connection is identical. Exactly the same model of wall box with exactly the same wiring.

What's the actual order the tester is giving you?

I'd have to dig it out tomorrow now, as my wife wouldn't thank me for waking the babies up pulling out the couch etc to get to it!
 
My bet is you're mixing standards without realising it, that's why you can only negotiate 100mbit

As I said though, both boxes and both ports in those boxes are all wired identically. One of the ports (they're dual port boxes) works perfectly at gigabit and I'm typing to you on it now. The other just doesn't connect, but shows 100Mbps on the switch downstairs.
 
My bet is you're mixing standards without realising it, that's why you can only negotiate 100mbit
As pointed out in a thread the other day (can't remember who) if you mix standards you create a crossover cable and that'll still work with anything that's even reasonably modern.
 
Did you punch that down with a Krone tool or a 110 tool? I think your issue is the miles of untwisted wiring before the termination.
 
As I said though, both boxes and both ports in those boxes are all wired identically. One of the ports (they're dual port boxes) works perfectly at gigabit and I'm typing to you on it now. The other just doesn't connect, but shows 100Mbps on the switch downstairs.

The PCBs are for dual port modules (e.g. 4 ports in total), possible the left is wired differently to the right for some reason and the stickers are just wrong.

Re-punch then but keep them twisted as bremen1874 said.

Definitely too much exposed untwisted cable (although in a lot of cases it will work), should only be exposed from the punchdown to the stickers (with the cable ideally entering halfway up at the left)
 
Did you punch that down with a Krone tool or a 110 tool? I think your issue is the miles of untwisted wiring before the termination.

Krone tool. I can re-twist the pairs and punch down again tomorrow, but ironically it's the messiest most untwisted one (the right) that works flawlessly lol.

The PCBs are for dual port modules (e.g. 4 ports in total), possible the left is wired differently to the right for some reason and the stickers are just wrong.

Definitely too much exposed untwisted cable (although in a lot of cases it will work), should only be exposed from the punchdown to the stickers (with the cable ideally entering halfway up at the left)

Yeah there was a choice of two ports or four within the same model range. I got the dual as I only really needed one and ran the other for (thankfully) redundancy.
 
Post a photo anyway.

The other (downstairs) one, as requested.

1ClO872.jpg


As I said, I know they're messy and have too much exposed wiring but ironically the worst of the two (the right / second port) is the one that works perfectly. I have severe arthritis amongst other things and my hands aren't great. I just figured for the trivial cost (less than 50 quid) I may as well have a go. One out of two ain't too bad. :p
 
Left side of that one looks much better

Yeah, I did the right side first and it was my first ever try. By the time I got to cable 2 (on the left) I had more of a 'feel' for it. Shame the tidy one is the borked one lol. *shrug* I'll just use the working one until something dies or needs must, and then do a fresh pull of cable and use new (properly standard) plates.
 
One thing I will say is that the wires should all be coming in from the same side of both termination blocks.

One set of wires on each faceplate is currently coming in from the wrong side. If the wires are coming in from the wrong side the Krone tool must have been used backwards and you may have knackered the IDCs in the process.
 
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