No just plain white LED's. Cloudy on the inside. Even cloudy under the midplate. Ive seen many users with the same issue.
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Extreme watercooling build, help!
- Thread starter John7up
- Start date
No just plain white LED's. Cloudy on the inside. Even cloudy under the midplate. Ive seen many users with the same issue.
I'll not mention the cloudiness issue other than to say my flexible tubing is still crystal clear after 2 years. I guess it varies depending on the manufacturer and the coolant you're using.
Before thinking about hardline, read up about how you fit it. It is a whole lot harder to fit than flexible tubing. With flex you guess the right length, cut it flush, screw in your fittings in, stick the tubing on and then tighten everything up. With hardline you have to be much more accurate with the measurements. Unless you use a lot of fittings to let you just use straight tubing you will also have to make all the bends with a heat gun and a bending insert.
If you're happy to make the effort, it looks a lot nicer than flexible tubing IMO, but it's a lot of work.
this. plus no matter what anyone says, taking apart a rigid tubing loop for maintenance is more difficult. I know some will say it isn't, but with flexible, you can literally drain down with your drain port, then unscrew fittings and know if there's any water in there, you can bend it straight down out of the case or toward a bottle to take the remaining water.
with rigid tubing, this is not the case. you have to be way more careful.
I wish my camera did the loops above justice, they look much more subtle IRL but sadly, for some reason, my camera amplifies brightness about 10x more than it really is (exposure? no idea.. crap with photography)
the 240 upright was really 'just for looks', in the previous setup was 360 top 360 bottom 240 back but.. if you're using 2x 480 then in the enthoo it'll be a tight squeeze indeed I think, or it would've been for me anyways. also watch radiator width, although you -can- force them down, some of them don't just slip along the bottom. my coolgates did, XSPC doesn't, you have to force it down, seems like case is just not quite wide enough down there.
I can't go hard tubing due to not having the req tools and experience + if I want to add an extra card in the loop or borrow some 32gigs ram for my mini rig, or change gpus between titan x pascal and 1080 etc... I want to have some freedom.
So for soft tubing , 10/13 would do more kinks? how about aspect? what is the best tube size to use especially if you have some curves and stuff? I cannot force the radiator down, which is why i'm stuck on what 2nd 60mm 480mm rad to get.
DDC or D5 for pump, would love to attach it where it should belong near the gpu and ram.
Should I go for full eloop bionic fans (16x? I only have 6x now) or should i get 2 more eloops and get 8x EK vardar F3?
can anyone draw me a circuit (an idea of what should go from what to where, and besides, if i get 2 rads, in what position should i turn them/each so I don't have a big mess of tubing visible?
So for soft tubing , 10/13 would do more kinks? how about aspect? what is the best tube size to use especially if you have some curves and stuff? I cannot force the radiator down, which is why i'm stuck on what 2nd 60mm 480mm rad to get.
DDC or D5 for pump, would love to attach it where it should belong near the gpu and ram.
Should I go for full eloop bionic fans (16x? I only have 6x now) or should i get 2 more eloops and get 8x EK vardar F3?
can anyone draw me a circuit (an idea of what should go from what to where, and besides, if i get 2 rads, in what position should i turn them/each so I don't have a big mess of tubing visible?
Soldato
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Ive installed by aquacomputer res with d5 pump under the 140 mil exhaust like DW has. Works very well, couldn't use the normal mounting area as the 980ti is to long.