Feista problems

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Joined
21 Feb 2006
Posts
1,644
Location
Southampton, UK
Hi guys,

My poor little feista is on it's last legs, 98 plate with 102000 miles on the clock, loads of probs in the last few months, the latest being that it either doesn't charge the battery or the battery doesn't hold its charge difficult to work out.

So i charge the battery, drive around for a day, leave it for a day, i go to start it and the battery is dead, so have to charge it again and the cycle continues.

I'm reluctant to change the battery as i can't really afford to do it at the moment, i know their cheap but still, especially if it's not at fault. Could it be the alternator not charging the battery? should a battery lose it's charge that quick. There doesn't appear to be anything draining the battery.

If it's the alternator, is that a user serviceable part?

Hope you can help!
 
If you have a friend with an multimeter get them to test the voltage while the car is running. Annoyingly the alternator failed on my MG ZS and I didn't get a battery light appear, I noticed the dashboard start to fail (Rev counter, and a few lights came on like the ABS one) and luckily made it home.
 
You need to have it at a certain rpm for it to charge anyway. Go and get a battery from the scrappy for a tenner. It's likely to be this. :)

Once a certain RPM is reached at start up (around 1500rpm) it will be charging on all revs.

Does sound like your battery is mullard. Have oyu checked the levels?
 
Finglonga - hows that work then? Why does it need to hit 1.5k rpm first?

Dunno how it all works, did a project on alternators years ago and we were asked to get some juice out of it. It was from a 3.00 Capri and wouldn't start charging until the thing passed 2500RPM! Couldn't remember why but found this to jog my ageing memory . .
A one wire alternator has a turn on point (sometimes called “cut in”, which is typically 1200 engine RPM’s). This is the speed where the internal sense circuitry connects the battery to the voltage regulator, thereby turning the alternator on. Once the voltage regulator turns on, the alternator will remain on and charging until the engine comes to a complete stop. If the engine idle speed and pulley ratio combination do not allow the alternator to come up to this point during starting, the engine will have to be revved up to turn the one wire alternator on. The sense circuitry in the one-wire regulator can be bypassed to excite the alternator as soon as the ignition switch is turned on. This is called three-wire operation. This means the alternator will not be dependent on reaching a certain turn on RPM.
 
The alternator will generate about 14.5v at any engine speed. The battery's probably just knackered, replace it, they don't last forever
 
What is potential difference between the centre of the positive battery terminal (use black test lead), and the clamp around the positive battery terminal (use red test lead)?

This will give an indication of whether the battery is accepting charge.
 
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