Few personal wedding photos + advice on using flashgun

A professional photographer who works in Hessle just outside of Hull told me the same thing a few weeks back. He just got a catalogue contract and got that because he doesn't sharpen everything so it pops. Supposedly a softer shot is far more preferred for portraits atm!

His words not mine :P

That is standard for any kind of professional stock photography. I sell some of my work through various micro and macro stock agencies and I will never sharpen any of my files for these agencies as it is up to the customer and the graphical designer to manipulate the image as they see fit. The same applies to conversion to black and white or large changes in exposure/saturation/contrast from a relative normal baseline. You never provide a B&W/low-sat/high-key photo, you provide a well exposed base image that graphical designers can work with.


Sharpening is an important processing step for the output of the photo and it depends on the output medium (web, vs TV vs small print vs large print, vs canvas). Sharpening is a requirement due to the Anti-aliasing filter in most cameras that soften edges and reduce micro-contrast.


What a1ex2001 was referring to was a psycho-physiological effect induced by the strong relative difference difference in sharpness and resolution between an out of focus background in a shallow DoF photo and the focused subject makes the focused subject appear much sharper than it actually is. this works if the subject is not critically sharp due to lens softness or focus errors, but something like handshake or motion blur will still be easily observed (the human eye is very sensitive to motion induced blur as a heuristic to measure egomotion and apparent motion in scenes, hence why classic photos of a blurred train speeding past a train track on a sunny day induce a feeling of motion).
So you still want to make sure shutter speeds are sufficient to reduce shake and subject motion blur, but you can sometimes get away with a slight miss-focus and lenses that are not particularly sharp wide open will usually look fine if the subject is still much sharper than the background. Of course that does not at all apply to things like architecture or landscapes where detail is very important.
 
Thanks. A lot more advice than I was expecting so will have to digest it and get some more practice in.

In M with ETTL you basically juggle 2 things.

1 - Flash will light your foregound subject.
2 - Your M settings, includes ISO controls background ambient light.

That makes sense actually!

That debate about sharpness is interesting. In my case, I know my camera front focusses a tiny bit which is another reason I don't go wide open in certain cases. But I think I should stop worrying about it too much and think about everything else first.

P.s. Finally just realised how to do flash compensation on the D90; had looked for it in the manual before in vain.
 
Front focus Vs lens just being softer at wide open are two completely different things.
The focus point draws attention to the subject, inaccurate focus draws attention away from the main subject, more often than not, killing the photograph.

Camera calibration can be done for about £70 if you don't have warranty lenses cost around £35...
 
Thanks. A lot more advice than I was expecting so will have to digest it and get some more practice in.



That makes sense actually!

That debate about sharpness is interesting. In my case, I know my camera front focusses a tiny bit which is another reason I don't go wide open in certain cases. But I think I should stop worrying about it too much and think about everything else first.

P.s. Finally just realised how to do flash compensation on the D90; had looked for it in the manual before in vain.

I don't know how Nikon works, but I set my flash compensation to my "set" button for quick access.


So just to make sure I have this clear:

flash compensation allows me to tweak my foreground subject (although ttl should help expose it correctly presumably), and M setting is for controlling ambient? Soshutter speed is just for controlling motion like usual, aperture is just for controlling dof as usual, and ISO just becomes a way of tweaking ambient while maintaining the desired shutter and aperture (unless high ISO noise forces me to drop shutter speed as a compromise).

Is that a fair summary or have I misinterpreted something?

I read somewhere that aperture affects flash exposure as well, so should I be worried that a wide open aperture would pick up flash light from the background (contaminating the ambient) worse than a small aperture?
 
I read somewhere that aperture affects flash exposure as well, so should I be worried that a wide open aperture would pick up flash light from the background (contaminating the ambient) worse than a small aperture?

Doesn't make any difference and doesn't matter. As long as you balance the flash colour, to the ambient colour it doesn't make any difference, besides it's shutter speed and ISO you want to be concerned with, not aperture, as the shutter speed affects ambient exposure independently of flash exposure.

Below is what each setting affects.
Shutter speed = Ambient light
Aperture = Ambient & flash light
ISO = Ambient & Flash exposure.

Aperture and ISO settings are the only settings that affect flash exposure, unless you use a shutter speed that is over x-sync. If you use high speed sync or Nikon equivalent, shutter speed also affects flash exposure. The reason is high speed sync effectively turns the flash into a constant light source as the flash duration becomes longer than the shutter speed, this light can effectively be treated as ambient light.

Edit:

Perhaps I miss understood you, are you talking about other peoples flash effecting your exposure?
Even so the answer is still the same, if you close down the aperture you need to up the ISO which counteracts the effect of stopping down the aperture.

You can minimise the effect of other peoples flashes by lowering the ISO and increasing your flash power so your flash is much more power than theirs, and then slowing down the shutter speed to balance ambient, this may cause ghosting though and because your shutter is open for longer, increase your risk of contamination.
 
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Awesome, cheers for the feedback. I think for now I'll just use flash compensation to tweak flash output and just use shutter and ISO to balance ambient. My flash is really basic and doesn't even have HSS so that's pretty much all I can do with it anyway.
 
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