Filters

sjt269

sjt269

sjt269

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Joined
11 Dec 2004
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Hey all

Got a Fuji S5600 and I'm wondering if I can get any filters to fit this camera? I've been seeing all these great shots on the forum, and people keep talking about all the various filters they use, or think others should use etc etc. I've got a particular interest in infra-red (got some very good ideas for those kind of shots) but I've no idea if I can get a filter to fit my camera. I did quickly measure the lens with a ruler, but I got a size that didn't match up with any filter sizes I've seen on the internet, so either my ruler or my eyeball was a little bit out.:p

Anyway, if someone could enlighten me about what the various filters actually do, and which ones I could use on my camera (or which would be beneficial to use?) then I'd appreciate it. Anyone who's interested can check out my makeshift photo galery in my sig (I never get many comments when I post my pics, so the gallery is going in my sig to try to provoke some responses). It's the usual story of sky shots that's made me post this - skies always seem blown out (I know I could combine images etc, I'm just a little reluctant to do that - I'm quite proud of getting good images with minimal post processing).

Thanks
tTz
 
I'm pretty sure you can do infra-red with that camera. To check, turn all the rooms lights out, then whilst you take a shot (3secs) wave a remote control about in front of the lens whilst pressing buttons on it. Make sure the LED is facing the lens.

You want to get a circular polariser too, they are the best bang-for-buck thing anyone can buy for a camera.

A google yielded your filter size is 55mm. Best check yourself though (look at the manual and lens).
 
So what exactly is a circular polariser, then? What's the benefit of having one?

:edit:

Ah. The camera has '55mm' and a diameter symbol written right beneath the lens. Should've noticed that, methinks. :o
 
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A polariser (think polarising sunglasses) blocks out light at certian angles. If you've ever worn a pair of polarising sunglasses at the beach then you will have noticed a couple of things.

1. The sparkely reflections from the water go away with the glasses on
2. Colours are different, the best example being that the sky is more saturated.

This is due to the polariser letting some light get to your eyes but not all the light. There are diagrams on T'interweb but I can't be bothered to find them :p

A CP filter does the same thing as your sunglasses. It blocks out the light entering your lens from certian angles. Because you're always going to be taking photos in different locations at different times of the day, and because some lenses rotate when they focus, A *circular* polariser can rotate the polarising section so that you can adjust the angle at which the filter blocks the light.

A standard Polarising filter is fixed, just light a pair of sunglasses, and doesn't give you as much flexibilty and the filters than can rotate, but they still work.

You can get some really funky effects by attaching a fixed polarising filter and then stacking a CP filter on top of it because you can then block out the light from two different angles!

A CP filter is probably the most important filter you can get. A UV filter is good for lens protection but doesn't really effect your images. A CP filter can make a good photo great.

Panzer
 
Cool, I'll take a look. Interesting that you say a UV filter can protect the lens...if I were to be taking pictures of a sunset, would it be a good idea to have a kind of filter? I've wondered that a few times, actually, but never got round to asking.


:edit:

Oh, any preferred makes of filters? I've seen the name 'Hoya' talked about a lot, but dunno if they're the top-end filters, or what. I'm looking at filters on a retailer's website just now. :)


:edit2:

Just found a Hoya IR filter that would fit my camera for £30.99, which seems promising. While I've got a thread open, has anyone got any links to IR photography tutorials? I seem to recall IR shots needing custom white balances, but I don't know what kind of setting it would need. :confused:
 
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Nice sunset, seems a little soft though.

A UV filter really won't effect your pictures that much. UV used to be important when shooting with film IIRC, but with digital it's neither here nor there, they really are just used for lens protection.

Hoya are a good make. They have three levels of Filter; standard, HMC and Pro 1D.

The price varies acordingly but even their standard range is good quality. I've just got a Pro 1D UV filter for my 18-200 VR lens and it's amazing but it was £35. the glass is 1mm thick and the housing is only 3mm!
I also got a HMC CP filter (can't really afford the Pro 1D CP filter) and that is extremely good too but that was just under £30.

My lens diameter is 72mm so a R72 IR filter would cost me ~£70-100 depending on where I buy it.

Panzer

You wont go wrong with the Hoya R72 IR filter if you want to get into IR photography. I would double check that your camera doesn't have in-built IR stopping filter because the cameras that do are usually pretty rubbish for IR photography.
I dont want to confuse you but the R72 filter only lets in IR light and the in-built filter in the camera stops IR light, so if you attach an R72 to a camera with inbuilt IR reduction, your not going to get much of a photo :p

You can't even say "canon are best for IR or Nikon are best for IR" because it depends on the individual camera so I would either ask the nice people here, or do a bit of googling for your specific camera.

Panzer
 
Ive got a Hoya 52mm R72 Infrared Filter which cost me £15 inc p&p from Hong Kong. Its probably one of the most popular IR filters. With the custom white balance, you simply attach the filter, point the camera at something white (or ideally 18% grey) and make a custom white balance setting. One thing that you should check though, is what the maximum exposure time is on your camera. Depending on how much IR light is around, and how sensitive your camera is to IR light, exposures can take anywhere between a few seconds up to a few minutes. So if your camera only does a few seconds max exposure, then IR may be a no go.
 
Panzerbjorn said:
I dont want to confuse you but the R72 filter only lets in IR light and the in-built filter in the camera stops IR light, so if you attach an R72 to a camera with inbuilt IR reduction, your not going to get much of a photo :p
Click to expand...


Yeah, I'm going to try to find out this stuff. I've got exams for the next month, and I'm not buying anything til they're done, so I'm going to wait a bit, do my research, and get something that's as near as certain to work as I can get.



messiah khan said:
Depending on how much IR light is around, and how sensitive your camera is to IR light, exposures can take anywhere between a few seconds up to a few minutes. So if your camera only does a few seconds max exposure, then IR may be a no go.
Click to expand...

My camera does 15s max exposure. Dunno if there's any way to make it longer (kinda wish there was, then when I get a decent telescope I could do some astrophotography with it) but I seem to recall someone, might have been yourself, saying that in bright sunlight, 4s was all that was needed. I know that was with a different camera to mine, and it's likely not going to be the same, but I'm gambling on 15s being enough in bright environments, and if it's not, then the filter shall go on evilbay and I'll not get too wound up about it. :)
 
Yeah, it was me. That was high up on the moor with the sun out. Most of the day I was using 8-10s exposure time, but when testing it indoors I was needing 2minutes. Does your camera have a bulb setting (B)? That allows the shutter to stay open as long as you have your finger on the shutter release.
 
handy review, shame the outlook doesn't seem too good with your camera. You could put that £30 towards a really good CP filter or another accessory though.

Panzer
 
So, in a nutshell, the review basically says that it's possible, but requires post processing work on levels to get it to look good? I'm perfectly comfortable to shoot in manual with longer exposure times, as suggested in the review, if that's what I'd need to do. Or is it just not bothering with? :o

I'll get myself a CP filter or something instead if IR would be a waste of money, since I'd like to keep trying to improve my pictures, however I can. :)
 
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