First Hardline Build - O11D XL + EK Front Distro plate

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Parts list:

Monitor - Alienware AW3821DW
CPU - AMD Ryzen 9 5950x
Motherboard - Gigabyte Aorus Xtreme (Rev 1.1)
RAM - G.Skill F4-3600C14Q-32GTZNB
GPU - Palit GamePro OC RTX 3090
SSD - WD Black 2TB SN850 NVME M.2 Gen4
PSU - Corsair AX1600i
PSU Cables - CableMod ProModmesh C-Series kit (Black)
Case - Lian Li 011D XL (Black)
Keyboard - Durgod Venus TKL 60% (Cherry Silent Red) + HK Pudding KeyCaps
Mouse - Razer Basilisk Ultimate Wireless
Mouse mat - Razer Firefly v2

Water Cooling part list:

Distro plate - EK-Quantum Reflection PC-O11D XL D5 PWM D-RGB - Plexi
GPU Block - EK-Quantum Vector RE RTX 3080/3090 D-RGB - Nickel + Plexi
GPU Back-plate - EK-Quantum Vector RTX 3080/3090 Backplate - Nickel
CPU Block - EK-Quantum Magnitude D-RGB - AM4 Nickel + Plexi
Monsoon PETG tubing - 16mm/12mm
EK PETG tubing - 16mm/12mm
EK Quantum Torque HDC 16 fittings / Nickel (exact listing to be detailed once the build is finished)
EK Coolstream 360 XE radiator
EK Coolstream 360 PE radiator
Fans - Lian Li UniFan SL120
Various tools (exact listing to be detailed once the build is finished)
 
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Since this was the all EK-O11DXL-Distro build I didn't end up going for, but nearly did, I am very much looking forward to seeing how it turns out.

Have you decided on the coolant?
For coolant I'm going with trusty old de-ionised water with a drop or two of Mayhems Biocide. I thought about using EK Mystic Fog for a while but in the end, I like the clear look and ultimately there will be less gunk in my loop over time by using de-ionised water.
 
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First post...

The hair raising BIOS flashing without CPU or anything else using Gigabyte's Q-Flash+ mechanism to add suppot for the Ryen 5000 series CPU.

This is the support resource tutorial I used.

Mike's unboxing, reviews and how to
How To Use Gigabyte Q FLASH PLUS Bios Flash Button
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7cQLYROKJ_Q

I went with latest BIOS version F31o

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A couple of interesting discoveries...

In order to mount the Gigabyte Aorus X570 Xtreme which is an over-sized ATX (not actually EATX), it was unfortunately necessary to cut the rubber grommets / rubber pads on the motherboard tray area of the 011D XL. Lian Li actually cover this scenario on page 5 of the case manual.

The reason for this was because with the size of this particular board and the proximity to the rubber grommets, it was just that little bit too close to the board to allow for the 3 screws on the right hand side of the board to be successfully screwed into stand-offs.

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The included Lian Li GPU ant-sag bracket included with this case is a great idea but unfortunately it is not compatible with this motherboard. Primarily as only 1 of the the 2 required screw holes is available but also there may be issues for any mainboard with 'armour'. Your mileage may vary...

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Also I did not need the optional extra Extension Panel for EEB Motherboards - Thought I might have as the Aorus X570 Xtreme is larger than standard ATX but not needed at the end of the day.

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I have opted to replace the CableMod ModMesh cables for the (hopefully) more flexible ModFlex option as these are just a bit rigid and there are some tight turns, see the 24 pin connector in the pic.

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At the moment this would prevent the installation of a fan... so hopefully the replacement ModFlex cables with resolve this.
 
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Ok so before getting into the weeds of setting up the loop, I wanted to do a quick functionality test. A very basic build to make sure the main components worked out of the box and to see if my 'blind' BIOS upgrade has worked.

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Its Alive!!!!

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I've been after that case for a month now, is it a dream to work on like they say it is ?
So far yeah it's great. The only change I would make as of right now would be to suggest that Lian Li incorporate a means to detach the top rad mount to allow for easiest possible installation. Right now you cannot do that as the roof of the case not detachable. I've seen this feature on some Phanteks cases and its very handy...
 
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Until I get my loop sorted out, I disabled the boost feature on the CPU and did not activate any XMP memory profiles to keep my temps down as my bargain basement cooler can only handle 120w and I want to get a build of Windows 10 on there.

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Incidentally plenty of room for a large-ish PSU, here is my Corsair AX1600i with room to spare. Though I don't think I'd be comfortable installing it in the mid or upper locations as there are no other support means except for the usual 4 screws at the rear of the PSU to hold it in place. At ground level there is also a nice rubber anti-vibration pad for it to rest on.

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Noooo, the verge was wrong, you were right. The link in my comment takes you to the video. It is atrocious.
Forgive me, I was making an attempt at humour ;)
LOL I know the video... Its infamous.
I definitely needed more caffeine before replying. T'was good humour, well played. In my defence, I was up very late last night... well that's my story *cough* and I'm sticking to it :D
 
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I’ve got an xl on order and plan to put in the side distro plate but will be interested to see how you get on with this. Any particular reason you went for the front distro?

For the motherboard, is there a way of knowing which motherboards are slightly larger and would fit like yours? I’d want to avoid that.

Motherboard manufacturer and reseller product pages typically list the dimensions and you can then cross check against the ATX standard (Google will confirm the standard size for ATX form factor).

I went with the front distro plate for a few reasons... I like D5 pumps, I liked the aesthetic (front distro plate vs side distro plate) and also because most of the tube runs except for the two bends required for the CPU will essentially be straight for my build as I am using some 90 degree fittings on the rads and the GPU.
 
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Distro plate installed... a bit fiddley (to use a technical term) as I don't have petite hands and some of the spaces where fixings (screws and nuts) are required are very tight spaces and neuro-surgeon steadiness seems like a must.

Anyway, job done (eventually)

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Thanks for responding. I’ll bear that in mind. Good luck with the rest of the build!
Not at all :)
Also it usually is only the top tier flagship motherboard products (Desktop boards / gaming boards) that can be a little larger than standard ATX, otherwise Workstation or Server boards usually are genuine E-ATX boards etc. For the most part the vast majority of desktop / gaming motherboards will be standard ATX size.
 
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