First loop - Save me from myself

Asa

Asa

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15 Nov 2011
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411
Hi!

I am looking to order and build my first custom loop on payday (25th). I'm hoping that if I ask the right questions here, I might not be using the next payday to fix everything that went wrong! I'm going to be putting quite a lot under water. An i7-3820 @ 4.5 Ghz (current OC on a small AIO), and initially 2x R9-290, that may become 3 GPUs of some variety in the future. The case is a Thermaltake T81 Urban, full tower with quite a lot of space for radiators.

So here goes:
Pump: https://www.overclockers.co.uk/xspc-d5-dual-bay-reservoir-pump-combo-v2-wc-140-xs.html OR https://www.overclockers.co.uk/xspc-twin-d5-dual-bay-reservoir-pump-combo-wc-163-xs.html
I have 2 convenient bays for a dual bay reservoir. I'm not sure how easy it'll be to access the filling point so I may need to re-think, but my main question is whether I would benefit from dual D5s or not?

CPU block: Raystorm Pro https://www.overclockers.co.uk/xspc-raystorm-pro-waterblock-intel-black-wc-353-xs.html

GPU blocks: 2x https://www.overclockers.co.uk/ek-water-blocks-ek-fc-r9-290x-acetal-nickel-rev.2.0-wc-549-ek.html
The only one that is confirmed compatible with my GPUs, but out of stock so may need to order elsewhere :(

Radiators: https://www.overclockers.co.uk/xspc-ex560-quad-fan-radiator-wc-090-xs.html mounted at the top
Maybe a 280 radiator mounted at the front intake. Is that enough, or should I be cramming single rads in where possible as well?

Fans: The case has 200mm fans intake at the front and exhaust at the top. Radiators will have 140mm fans pushing/pulling as appropriate. Which ones depends on OCUK stock when I order.

Tubing: Clear, probably Mayhems unless there is some advantage to more expensive tubing? Size depends on what quick disconnect points are available when order

Fittings: Monsoon 6 pack (matching the tube size) for pump, CPU, Radiator, 2 more compression fittings for each additional radiator, and 2 per GPU (or is a crossfire flow bridge easier)?

Quick Disconnects: I'd like quick disconnects either side of the 2 GPUs. The lowest one will be useful for draining, and the other is to make it easy to pull both GPUs out. It seems pretty hard to get matching male and female QDC parts in most sizes??? I think availability of these may define the size of my tubes and fittings.

Fluid: Mayhems Ice White https://www.overclockers.co.uk/mayhems-pastel-ice-white-coolant-1l-wc-014-mh.html
I just really want to show the wife and straightfaced say "you're supposed to fill it with water, but I used milk because it's colder" to see if/how she reacts. How much will I need to fill the loop?

Extras: Some tube cutters maybe.

Anything else to consider? Any opportunities to cut down the price? Also, what are the chances that the many "ETA 26/02/16" items listed right now actually arrive this month?

Thanks for any help, and sorry for the wall of text!
 
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Hi there,
the first pump combo is ok, you don't need dual D5's.
my problem is with the radiator. On the official site it said that the radiator support is 360/420mm for top.
I'd go with any size, just a more deeper radiator (think RX from XSPC), just make 100% sure your fan+radiator combo goes in and you have enough clearance.
 
Thanks!

Those site diagrams show radiators fitting in where the 200mm fans are currently. I'm actually planning to leave those fans in place, and fixing the radiator to the inside of the roof. There is quite a bit of clearance there (it's where my AIO radiators are right now). I'll measure it up later to be sure, but I'd like to stick to 140mm fans if possible for the reduced noise.

If the standard D5 is good enough then I can save a fair bit by including a kit (https://www.overclockers.co.uk/xspc-raystorm-d5-ex280-watercooling-kit-wc-148-xs.html).

Does it matter if one leg of the tubing is a slightly different size to the rest? That kit includes 16/11 doesn't lend itself to the quick disconnect, but if a bit of 16/10 tubing won't be a problem then I can still get the QDC in the loop.
 
Heya,

Just a few quick thoughts from me - I'm no expert, but I've built a few w/c loops, including my own:

I'm not sure how easy it'll be to access the filling point so I may need to re-think
Just leave enough slack in the tubing to slide it clear and you'll be fine. Several peeps I know have these and they do exactly this, no troubles.

Maybe a 280 radiator mounted at the front intake. Is that enough, or should I be cramming single rads in where possible as well?
Holy HELL!!!!!
The 140 quad one will do pretty well, I am sure. Adding the 280 will help, as will adding any rad immediately before a component in loop-order... but not by as much as you'd think. It's notably measurable, sure, but remember also that temperatures tend to even out throughout the loop.
It's not about how much cooling you can put in, as how much heat you can convect out.
That said, I did add an extra 120 rad to my loop, mainly because I could, because I'd already bought it, because I had the fans spare and because it takes a whole 3ºC off my temps... and just because! :D

Radiators will have 140mm fans pushing/pulling as appropriate. Which ones depends on OCUK stock when I order.
I'll sing the praises of Noctua all day, but since the whole forum knows I'm a fanboy, I'll say no more.
Practically, there's no performance difference between Push or Pull, only with twin fans in Push-Pull. Push traps a lot more dust. That's it.
Beyond that, it's down to which is the easier mounting method and which fans you prefer.

Tubing: Clear, probably Mayhems unless there is some advantage to more expensive tubing?
Not sure what Mayhems's is like, but PrimoChill's Primoflex tubing was overwhelmingly recommended to me at the time.

Fittings: Monsoon 6 pack (matching the tube size)
I like these, personally - Very happy with mine!
Remember to be very gay and colour-coordinate your fittings with all the other colours in your case... apparently, it's just the done thing if you buy Monsoon!! :D

Extras: Some tube cutters maybe.
If you already own a decent pair of garden secateurs, they will work awesome!!
Even our cheapy £6 B&D ones from B&Q made perfect, clean, sharp cuts.

Also, what are the chances that the many "ETA 26/02/16" items listed right now actually arrive this month?
How much does it matter?
This is the only part I'd say is properly serious and important... If you're that set on buying now, just buy whatever you think looks pretty and stuff it inside your case.
If you don't want the next few paydays spent on correcting things, you want to get what is best for your set-up. That may well mean waiting until the right components are in stock.

Whenever I'm within 3 days of my payday and there's something I want, OCUK will quite suddenly sell out of it... even if it's the oldest, junkiest piece of crap that they can't pay people to take away the hundreds of units they have stacked up in the back, I guarantee it will suddenly sell out the instant I start wanting one!! :D
 
Great, thanks for the advice.

I think I'm looking at just shy of £450 if I only cool the 1 GPU for now (they're temporary anyway). Tis not cheap, but I simply must know how the mrs reacts when she thinks I've filled the loop with milk.
 
Sounds likea good price. I went with EKWB for blocks, pump/res and angled fittings, Primochill tubing and Monsoon straight fittings, with blue Mayhems and a pair of rads (120 & 240), costing somewhere around £350-ish... and only because the 780 block was massively discounted!

Do film her reaction for us, won't you? :D
 
Ordered! Now just waiting for buyer's remorse to set in.

I decided to get 2 GPU blocks, and just try my luck on the "near reference PCB" Gigabyte 290. Grand total £507, which was supposed to be a 980TI. Hoping my 2 old 290s under water do the job in it's stead!

Is 1l fluid enough for the whole loop?
 
Ordered! Now just waiting for buyer's remorse to set in.

I decided to get 2 GPU blocks, and just try my luck on the "near reference PCB" Gigabyte 290. Grand total £507, which was supposed to be a 980TI. Hoping my 2 old 290s under water do the job in it's stead!

Is 1l fluid enough for the whole loop?

I suggest you check your card compatibility with the block in coolingconfigurator from EK. Since if the PCB doesn't match, the block will simply not fit without modification.

1L fluid is probably not enough, you'll be much safer to go 2L on this.
 
Thanks, ordered a 2nd litre.

The EK coolingconfigurator lists their rev 2.0 block as compatible with both my cards (MSI and Gigabyte), but I went with 2x Watercooler Heatkiller Blacks, pretty much just because OCUK have those in stock. I'm hoping it fits, but I've seen reference somewhere that the Gigabyte PCB is "close to reference", and I don't think the Heatkiller manual confirms either way.

That thing is damn loud so I don't want it raw, but if I do manage to get this block on it I'll have a system I can be fairly content with while I wait for the right upgrade.
 
Thanks, ordered a 2nd litre.

The EK coolingconfigurator lists their rev 2.0 block as compatible with both my cards (MSI and Gigabyte), but I went with 2x Watercooler Heatkiller Blacks, pretty much just because OCUK have those in stock. I'm hoping it fits, but I've seen reference somewhere that the Gigabyte PCB is "close to reference", and I don't think the Heatkiller manual confirms either way.

That thing is damn loud so I don't want it raw, but if I do manage to get this block on it I'll have a system I can be fairly content with while I wait for the right upgrade.

Even out of stock in EK's official webstore?
 
So far so good. Both GPU blocks seem to fit well, and connecting everything up is relatively simple.

I may change my mind on that when I run the milk through and find leaks everywhere. That will have to wait until Monday though, as unfortunately the 2 quick disconnect parts I've got are female so I can't actually complete the loop :(
 
can you take a pic of your rig now? i had only had 1 leak ever, and that's because i opened up my gpu waterblock and the internal O ring was a bitch to put back, and it seems i didn't put it back properly. Also, i'm not pro quick disconnects (although i bought a pair, I am not using it).
One should do a proper flush every 6-18 months (depending what coolant you use, if you have a silver coil, if you use biocide, or if you even see the faintest of green in there). And that flush should mean changing the coolant, and flushing all and every bits and parts from the loop.
 
can you take a pic of your rig now?
Ha probably not, it's a bit embarrassing next to some of the finely constructed works of art people post round here!

If it looks good with coolant tomorrow i'll whack a picture here, but i have my doubts that it'll be something i want to share :)
 
Arrrggghhh

I received the other part of my QDC and completed the loop. Wrapped kitchen roll around every fitting so that I could quickly spot any leakage, and got a towell nearby so that I could avert disaster if I did notice a problem.

Filling seemed to go well and the loop was nearly full, but then the top radiator sprung a leak right in the centre, and instantly showered my whole PC.

Sigh....
 
Gutted.

I'm expecting similar with my first loop. At the moment I'm still at the stage where I've spent a fortune on connectors, but half way through assembly finding I don't the right one for the job. Another day of waiting for next day deliveries :mad:
 
Right, replacement radiator arrived and I've got a leak-free, working system :)

The 2 GPUs only hit 55 degrees under load even when I run the fans in their silent profile. I've not run them for long, but enough that they'd have approached 95 degrees on the stock coolers so I'm really happy with that.

The CPU isn't faring so well, easily reaching 70-75 within a few minutes of activity. It's an i7-3820 running at 4.6Ghz, so if it stays at 75 I'll be comfortable but I suspect it will climb higher. Are the temps within expectations, or should I be looking to re-paste and fit the block?

At the moment I'm running the D5 vario at 4. I'd rather knock it down to 3, where the noise is better. Should I see much difference in temps in either direction when I change the pump speed?

Thanks!
 
what voltages are you giving it? (compared to stock)

also, for D5 you might want to test from 3 to 5 and see how much is the change in temperature. if it's big than it means you're having some blockages and your loop needs more pressure/water flow.
 
Voltage is quite high actually, might be able to tone that down a little. It's at about 1.325V. I can't remember what stock is, but Intel rate it for up to 1.4V. The overclock worked from the off and I've never been to inclined to see if I can drop it lower really.

I'll get back to tweaking various things later.
 
75 degrees seems a little high in my opinion. It's safe I guess but for reference my 6 core 5930k @ 1.3v hits about 60 max on a corsair 105 AIO. I'd want better on a custom loop. I'm sure someone else can give their opinion as well.
 
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