first photography job

Soldato
Joined
12 Dec 2004
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the south
hi all,
were to start, long story shot a friend of a firend has been the photographer in a bar/club for the past year, he's wanting to step back from it as its taking up to much of his spare time, he heard that i was into photography and got in contact to see if i was interested in taking over from him.

naturally i jumped at the chance. (getting paid to do something i really enjoy, who wouldn't) so i started friday night, going around with him, showing me the ropes and introducing me to all the staff and managers/owner. i had a fantasic night!

it was a bit intimidating at first going up to strangers asking if i could take their pictures, once i got the first few out of the way i soon got into the swing of things, and shout outs from the dj helped.
when it got to peak time and the drinks were flowing people were coming up to me asking to have there pictures taken, which made things easier.

from the firday night i took around 200 pictures of which only 30 get used for the website. they want pictures to be taken in a certain way. they want the people to be light up and a black back round.

this is a good example of one.

pic02na5.jpg


this is the kind of thing they dont want.

pic03ez2.jpg


at the moment im using the built in flash as i dont have a flash gun, but i've ordered one. (nikon sb600, was all i could afford at the moment, hopefully it will be ok???)
most of the pictures were taken at the lowest aperture i had F3.5/4 with a 1/500 shutter speed and -1.3/1.7ev flash.
i uped the shutter speed as fast as it would go to try and reduce light and had to play about with the flash quite a bit to get the dark back round.
i found i was constintaly changing the settings as the light changes so much every were you walk. compensating for the light was the hardest thing.
at the dance floor there's lots of strobes and lighting effects, what id like to do is get some of these into the shots, how ever using flash and the fast shutter speed makes this impossible.

i had a play with some longer exposures and started using curtain/rear flash
which gave me these.

pic04lb3.jpg


pic01us0.jpg


however using these setting on people didnt work to well as after the first flash most people think the picture is done and start to move, then suddenly a second flash goes off and the picture comes out "ghosty"

i've still got loads to learn and cant wait to have a play with my new flash. i'll be doing it every friday and saturday night, so i'll have plenty of practise time.

if any one has any advise/tips for shooting in low light conditions please im all ears.
thanks.

heres a few of my favorites, hope you enjoy ;)

pic08kb2.jpg


pic10nn4.jpg


pic09gj0.jpg


pic07ji7.jpg


pic06cn7.jpg


Dan
 
hmm, which pictures in particular?
they seem pretty bright on mine, with exception to the large grounp were the flash isn't reaching the people at the rear. is any one else finding them really dark?

kit is nikon D70 with kit 18-70 lens.
 
all of those are quite a bit under exposed, around 2-3 stops on some

if they look ok to you then you need your monitor calibrated


use your histogram too, the first photo is way over to the left, a big sign of under exposure
 
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I think he need to learn how to use a flash more than a new lens.

Use manual, ETTL, diffuser, 1/4sec, ISO400, F/4 and go !
 
Definitely a bit on the dark side; your monitor's probably miscalibrated. Also, you should learn to use histograms to judge exposure rather than just looking at the photo on your camera LCD.

image1az0.png


image2gq9.png


image3hb2.png
 
No impact.

I find wind angle lenses give loads of impact, especially when combined with long exposures. It looks like you don't process your photos either. Go get Adobe Lightroom and push up the exposure, contrast, blacks, clarity and saturation.




I think he need to learn how to use a flash more than a new lens.

Use manual, ETTL, diffuser, 1/4sec, ISO400, F/4 and go !

Agree.
 
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wow impresive photo.
cheers for al lthe comments so far guys, just had a quick play with the monitor seems its far to bright. any one got a link to a good web site for info about calibrating your monitor. can really afford spyder or any thing like that.

i'll read up more on histograms, any more advise?
might have use to a sigma 10-20 to.
cheers again
 
wow impresive photo.
cheers for al lthe comments so far guys, just had a quick play with the monitor seems its far to bright. any one got a link to a good web site for info about calibrating your monitor. can really afford spyder or any thing like that.

i'll read up more on histograms, any more advise?
might have use to a sigma 10-20 to.
cheers again


save up and get the spyder or a pantone huey, if your doing photography as a job you should really have the bare minimum to get half decent results

practice practice practice

try shooting in a darkish room with a friend as a subject until you get the hang of things :)
 
save up and get the spyder or a pantone huey, if your doing photography as a job you should really have the bare minimum to get half decent results

Better off saving the money for other things, have good links with people in photography or techie with a calibrator and get it calibrated for free or a pocket money rather than for more or less a one off product.
 
Better off saving the money for other things, have good links with people in photography or techie with a calibrator and get it calibrated for free or a pocket money rather than for more or less a one off product.

they're not for one of usage though, monitors should be kept calibrated regularly, especially if its in an environment where the lighting can change frequently


they are quite cheap for the budget ones and will help a lot
 
Monitor calibrating is over rated if you're just displaying for web. It's easy enough to calibrate black and whites with a chart, when calibrating your colors you can use something like Hex2Bit (which is a free) monitor color calibrating software.

Don't mess around buying spyders or whatever unless a lot of your work's going to print. I've never under stood why people bother prioritize gadgets when they don't really need them.
 
I think he need to learn how to use a flash more than a new lens.

Use manual, ETTL, diffuser, 1/4sec, ISO400, F/4 and go !


I was too lazy (i^m sick) to explain, but I think a fast prime lens would help massively in such situations, along with an off-camera flash.

The exposure problem is unrelated.

A good tip is to shoot in RAW and expose your image as far right on the historgram as possible without clipping the highlights. Then afterwards bring the exposure down to correct levels.

the reason is that sensor record much more detail in the higher exposures. not well enough to find a link explianing the details. Thebasis is that on say a 10buit raw file 512 levels might be used to record the top stop of exposure while only 16 for the bottom stop - hence better to over expose withotu clipping and tzhen adjust, rather than boost a too dark image. You can test this by shooting a scene on a tripod. One version over expose slihgtly, while the other under expose. in PS bring the exposure to the same level on each photo and compare quality.
 
Monitor calibrating is over rated if you're just displaying for web. It's easy enough to calibrate black and whites with a chart, when calibrating your colors you can use something like Hex2Bit (which is a free) monitor color calibrating software.

Don't mess around buying spyders or whatever unless a lot of your work's going to print. I've never under stood why people bother prioritize gadgets when they don't really need them.


for somebody putting snapshots on the web then calibration isn't really needed

for somebody who is earning money from it then monitor calibration & colour management is good practice wether its going for print or not

if I had employed the op and he showed me those photos I would seriously rethink his position
 
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