First time watercooler - spec + questions
- Thread starter Damien.
- Start date
There are two 2 pin heat sensors that plug into on the Gigabyte Aorus Z490 Xtreme. EC_TEMP1 and 2.
You can see them in the BIOS on the second picture. https://www.anandtech.com/show/14807/the-gigabyte-x570-xtreme/3
"EC_TEMP1/EC_TEMP2 (Temperature Sensor Headers)
Connect the thermister cables to the headers for temperature detection."
I'm assuming that's right. Sensor IN/GND for the connectors.
The fans get the controls from selecting that input.
https://store.overclockers.co.uk/xspc-temperature-sensor-2-x-g1-4-fitting-chrome-wc-47g-xs.html
You can see them in the BIOS on the second picture. https://www.anandtech.com/show/14807/the-gigabyte-x570-xtreme/3
"EC_TEMP1/EC_TEMP2 (Temperature Sensor Headers)
Connect the thermister cables to the headers for temperature detection."
I'm assuming that's right. Sensor IN/GND for the connectors.
The fans get the controls from selecting that input.
https://store.overclockers.co.uk/xspc-temperature-sensor-2-x-g1-4-fitting-chrome-wc-47g-xs.html
I have one of those, one in my loop connected to the back of my pump inlet fittings and the another that reads air temperature which is routed to the front of my intake fans just behind the front panel to read the air temperature.
As you say they are connected to the EC_TEMP1 & EC_TEMP2 headers on the motherboard, my fan curve is set using the EC_TEMP2 which is my water temp sensor.
As you say they are connected to the EC_TEMP1 & EC_TEMP2 headers on the motherboard, my fan curve is set using the EC_TEMP2 which is my water temp sensor.
Dang, I was so close to getting this perfect. Riser bracket couldn't sit in its normal position as it would bunch up the riser cable. So had to move it forward to the edge of the case but now the GPU fittings is hitting off the CPU fittings. Bending the tubes would be too complex with all the tight angles in that area.
The only route I can see is running the case with the side panel off. As the GPU is too tall to get the door closed. Unless there was a way I could find someone good with acrylics to make a new extended door.
I've read people running the Dynamic 011 with the door off because their watercooled GPU was simply too tall. Unreal how thin they made that part of the case. This is a puzzler.
The only route I can see is running the case with the side panel off. As the GPU is too tall to get the door closed. Unless there was a way I could find someone good with acrylics to make a new extended door.
I've read people running the Dynamic 011 with the door off because their watercooled GPU was simply too tall. Unreal how thin they made that part of the case. This is a puzzler.
The GPU inlet/outlet sits a lot higher than yours. I originally had to use two 14 offset rotaries daisy chained to bring it up above the edge of the GPU ports.
The GP riser couldn't sit where yours is as it bunches up the cable so hard and hits the fittings. Bring it forward and I cannot use the outer GPU fittings. It's practically flush with the edge of the case. The GPU outlet port still hits the outlet CPU fittings.
The GP riser couldn't sit where yours is as it bunches up the cable so hard and hits the fittings. Bring it forward and I cannot use the outer GPU fittings. It's practically flush with the edge of the case. The GPU outlet port still hits the outlet CPU fittings.
ahh i see.. hmm.
I guess it'll be a tight squeeze if you get a low profile 90degree rotary.. or even a static 90 (with a bit of wiggling) and soft tubing for that area..
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/bitspower-90-degree-ig-1-4-adapter-matte-black-wc-275-bp.html
Get a piccie up at a few angles and i'm sure we can work something out
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I'm really not wanting to mix soft tubing with the loop. I'm going to go the normal route putting the card in horizontal and see if I can find a glass or perspex maker to build a new panel with longer latches sometime down the line.
The space that's left is beyond stupidly tight with the card going in vertically.
The space that's left is beyond stupidly tight with the card going in vertically.
Get a shorter riser cable. I have Linkup 10cm pcie 4 riser cable and it works fine. That brand does every length and type of riser cable you can imagine. Can then mount card where you want.
When I was trying to use the 20cm cable that came with the Lian Li kit I could instantly tell it was not going to work. No idea why it comes with 20cm cable.
When I was trying to use the 20cm cable that came with the Lian Li kit I could instantly tell it was not going to work. No idea why it comes with 20cm cable.
Even if I did get a shorter riser cable, I've tried every combination to try and not hit the CPU fittings. The GPU in/out ports are just too tall with the CPU fittings. The acrylic in/out was putting some pressure on the CPU fittings.
Then I can't get my fingers in to tighten up the fittings. At one point because everything was all extended, I was up to 11 rotary offset fittings because the graphics card pushing everything up. This is what has been taking me so long trying every combination. Even bending the pipes would have been too tight for the angles they were pushed off from. They would be all weird S shape wiggles trying to get past it all the tight areas.
The GPU in/out ports at the top of the acrylic was inline with the top of the CPU block.
With it setup now for the graphics card horizontally, I'm down to 4 offset 14mm rotaries.
What I think I am going to do is make a thicker aluminium frame for the glass side panel so it extends the glass panel. Then I wont need a new side panel.
Then I can't get my fingers in to tighten up the fittings. At one point because everything was all extended, I was up to 11 rotary offset fittings because the graphics card pushing everything up. This is what has been taking me so long trying every combination. Even bending the pipes would have been too tight for the angles they were pushed off from. They would be all weird S shape wiggles trying to get past it all the tight areas.
The GPU in/out ports at the top of the acrylic was inline with the top of the CPU block.
With it setup now for the graphics card horizontally, I'm down to 4 offset 14mm rotaries.
What I think I am going to do is make a thicker aluminium frame for the glass side panel so it extends the glass panel. Then I wont need a new side panel.
This is quite funny, the last tubing line (GPU outlet) is 6mm out with the front distro plate. Short of one fitting to have it perfectly horizontal. Mechanical lego sure is fun.
At least the door extension is going to work out well. I only need 1.5cm clearance to make a new frame extender.
At least the door extension is going to work out well. I only need 1.5cm clearance to make a new frame extender.
What a nerve racking challenge going through all the fittings. 46 fittings in total I think it was that I counted.
My version of thumb tight to no more versus other people's descriptions ended up loose.
Yes, people say they prefer bends in their tubes but I really loved the look of the straight line runs of that guy's Megatron 2.0 straight line build that I was trying to replicate.
It has been leak testing/holding for over an hour now.
My version of thumb tight to no more versus other people's descriptions ended up loose.
Yes, people say they prefer bends in their tubes but I really loved the look of the straight line runs of that guy's Megatron 2.0 straight line build that I was trying to replicate.
It has been leak testing/holding for over an hour now.
Yep, that's the next task after it's all primed. It cannot be too hard for a DIY frame extension.
Somebody else has been at it as well. https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/pz4vuu/extended_side_panel_for_regular_o11d/
Somebody else has been at it as well. https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/pz4vuu/extended_side_panel_for_regular_o11d/
typically if you like doing housekeeping every 6 months on average.. though i've had loops running using same liquid for more than a couple years no issues.. the rig in my previous post before i moved the components into the UMX4 case, was in a 750D, and the loop was still fine after 5 years.
You won't get any leeching like you would with soft tubes etc.
Plus if you did go with colour, it won't be maintenance free since they will eventually clog up your waterblocks (not end of world, flush, clean blocks with toothbrush, reloop).
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