First upgrade in a while - pretty out of touch!

Thank you again for the replies. I have decided so far on the following:

1. 100% going for the 7800X3D for CPU

2. Dropping down to a B650 board.
I was looking at the ROG Strix B650 boards and saw there is a 650E-E and 650E-F and couldn't tell what the difference is for one to be £60 cheaper? (Leaning towards the £60 cheaper one as a result)

3. GPU - agree no need to spend extra on the TUF version of the 4700 Super. So I've gone for the basic ASUS model the Dual EVO.

4. RAM upgraded to 6000mhz per recommendations above.

Basket now looks like:

My basket at OcUK:


Included both motherboards for comparison

Edit: This does leave me with a little headroom budget wise and after a few people mentioned it I am considering a new PSU as well. Better safe than sorry. Would 850W be enough for this?
 
AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D Eight Core 5.00GHz (Socket AM5) Processor - Retail
CP-3DT-AM
£500 (incl. VAT)
£350 (incl. VAT)
Find out more
Asus ROG Strix B650E-E Gaming WIFI (Socket AM5) DDR5 ATX Motherboard
MB-6JW-AS
£300 (incl. VAT)
£230 (incl. VAT)
FREE DELIVERY
Find out more
Corsair Vengeance RGB 32GB (2X16GB) DDR5 PC5-48000C30 6000MHz Dual Channel
MEM-CRS-01124
£150 (incl. VAT)
£110 (incl. VAT)
Find out more
Asus GeForce RTX 4070 SUPER Dual EVO 12GB GDDR6X PCI-Express Graphics Card
GRA-ASU-02141
£800 (incl. VAT)
Find out more
Asus ROG Strix B650E-F Gaming WIFI (Socket AM5) DDR5 ATX Motherboard
MB-6JX-AS
£200 (incl. VAT)
£190 (incl. VAT)
FREE DELIVERY
Find out more
Last edited:
AlexTrickle said:
Thank you again for the replies. I have decided so far on the following:

1. 100% going for the 7800X3D for CPU

2. Dropping down to a B650 board.
I was looking at the ROG Strix B650 boards and saw there is a 650E-E and 650E-F and couldn't tell what the difference is for one to be £60 cheaper? (Leaning towards the £60 cheaper one as a result)

3. GPU - agree no need to spend extra on the TUF version of the 4700 Super. So I've gone for the basic ASUS model the Dual EVO.

4. RAM upgraded to 6000mhz per recommendations above.

Basket now looks like:

My basket at OcUK:


Included both motherboards for comparison

Edit: This does leave me with a little headroom budget wise and after a few people mentioned it I am considering a new PSU as well. Better safe than sorry. Would 850W be enough for this?
Click to expand...
The E-E has 4 x m2 slots and a few more usb while the E-F has 3 x m2 slots so saves yourself £60 if you don't need 4.

I would get the Zotac 4070 super as it comes with a 5 year warranty if registered within 30 days otherwise it's 3 years and £50 cheaper.

And

www.overclockers.co.uk

Zotac GeForce RTX 4070 Super Twin Edge 12Gb Graphics Card

Order Zotac GeForce RTX 4070 Super Twin Edge 12Gb Graphics Card now online and benefit from fast delivery.
www.overclockers.co.uk www.overclockers.co.uk
 
AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D Eight Core 5.00GHz (Socket AM5) Processor - Retail
CP-3DT-AM
£500 (incl. VAT)
£350 (incl. VAT)
Find out more
Asus ROG Strix B650E-E Gaming WIFI (Socket AM5) DDR5 ATX Motherboard
MB-6JW-AS
£300 (incl. VAT)
£230 (incl. VAT)
FREE DELIVERY
Find out more
Corsair Vengeance RGB 32GB (2X16GB) DDR5 PC5-48000C30 6000MHz Dual Channel
MEM-CRS-01124
£150 (incl. VAT)
£110 (incl. VAT)
Find out more
Asus GeForce RTX 4070 SUPER Dual EVO 12GB GDDR6X PCI-Express Graphics Card
GRA-ASU-02141
£800 (incl. VAT)
Find out more
Asus ROG Strix B650E-F Gaming WIFI (Socket AM5) DDR5 ATX Motherboard
MB-6JX-AS
£200 (incl. VAT)
£190 (incl. VAT)
FREE DELIVERY
Find out more
Last edited:
Tetras said:
A decent 850 is overkill, but it leaves you room for upgrades. I wouldn't replace a Leadex Platinum though, unless it is an antique.
Click to expand...
It is about 7 years old and never ran close to capacity even when I did overclock. I'm not sure what classes as an antique in PSU lifetime?
 
AlexTrickle said:
It is about 7 years old and never ran close to capacity even when I did overclock. I'm not sure what classes as an antique in PSU lifetime?
Click to expand...
If it was me, I'd keep it for at least one more build. High-end PSUs have a 10-12 year warranty nowadays and the Leadex Platinum is unlikely to have been built any worse.
 
AlexTrickle said:
2. Dropping down to a B650 board.
I was looking at the ROG Strix B650 boards and saw there is a 650E-E and 650E-F and couldn't tell what the difference is for one to be £60 cheaper? (Leaning towards the £60 cheaper one as a result)



Edit: This does leave me with a little headroom budget wise and after a few people mentioned it I am considering a new PSU as well. Better safe than sorry. Would 850W be enough for this?
Click to expand...
as well as the extra m.2, the B650e-e board has 16+2 70A vrms, the f version 12+2 80A. the e also has a digital error code display which comes in handy. the e has 7 usb 3.2 gen2 ports on back whereas on f 4 of them drop to gen1. Both nice boards. I've got the e-e myself.
Depending on the game you can get better fps pairingthe more expensive 4070ti super with a 7600x rather than 4070super and 7800x3d...you also get 4gb extra vram on the ti version...

www.techspot.com

Faster GPU or Faster CPU: Ryzen 7600 + RTX 4070 Ti vs. Ryzen 7800X3D + RTX 4070

Usually we recommend PC gamers on a budget to adopt the min/max strategy. This means spending as little as possible on almost everything, except the GPU, where...
www.techspot.com www.techspot.com
 
Update - parts are ordered and arriving tomorrow. Very excited!

As people said my PSU should be fine I decided to put the spare budget into the GPU and actually got a 4070 Ti Super! It is the basic Zotac model but still a better card than I initially thought I would get!

Now I'm going to try and sort a windows install on a USB today ready for tomorrow.
 
AlexTrickle said:
Update - parts are ordered and arriving tomorrow. Very excited!

As people said my PSU should be fine I decided to put the spare budget into the GPU and actually got a 4070 Ti Super! It is the basic Zotac model but still a better card than I initially thought I would get!

Now I'm going to try and sort a windows install on a USB today ready for tomorrow.
Click to expand...
Don't forget to get that GPU registered so you get the extra 2 years warranty.

Enjoy.
 
Components arrived.
CPU slotted, RAM fitted and heatsink for the H100RGB is fitted. All smooth no problem.
Little confused that the block has a 4pin and a 3pin coming out of it. The online instructions from Corsair only refer to the 3pin.

Corsair instructions say to attach to CPU fan header.
Asus mobo instructions say to attach to AIO Pump header?

Which is better for the 3pin and what should I do with the 4pin?
 
Last edited:
Tetras said:
I'd assume the 4 pin is for the RGB, but I haven't even looked at the manual or any reviews.
Click to expand...
That would make some sense, I'll see if it's mentioned at all later in the Corsair documentation.

Side note: surprised that Corsair don't provide a printed manual/guide of any kind in their box!!
 
Okay so seemingly all gone well build wise. Booting fine, seemed to install windows fine. But then on Windows setup I get to:
"Let's connect you to a network
You'll need an Internet connection to continue setting up your device. Once connected, you'll get the latest features and security updates".

I've tried both the WiFi antenna that comes with the motherboard (in a room I know the WiFi is very strong) and plugging directly via ethernet.
Nothing comes up and no option to skip or anything. I'm just stuck on this screen.
Help?
 
AlexTrickle said:
I've tried both the WiFi antenna that comes with the motherboard (in a room I know the WiFi is very strong) and plugging directly via ethernet.
Nothing comes up and no option to skip or anything. I'm just stuck on this screen.
Help?
Click to expand...

I had the same issue but luckily I had an old WiFi stick which automatically installs windows drivers when you plug it in so I was able to continue. If you search google you’ll find there’s a way around this.
 
nlel1975 said:
I had the same issue but luckily I had an old WiFi stick which automatically installs windows drivers when you plug it in so I was able to continue. If you search google you’ll find there’s a way around this.
Click to expand...

Good to know its not an isolated issue and a quick Google showed me plenty of complaints about this.

Trying a workaround with shift+f10 to bring up command prompt and bypass the "out of box experience" which has given me an option for limited setup. Not sure if this will cause problems down the line?
 
AlexTrickle said:
Trying a workaround with shift+f10 to bring up command prompt and bypass the "out of box experience" which has given me an option for limited setup. Not sure if this will cause problems down the line?
Click to expand...

Should be fine, the reason why you have this problem is because neither your WiFi or network card have drivers installed so you can’t continue. I have an old WiFi stick which installed the drivers when I plugged it in.

You’ll have to install the drivers when it’s been installed.
 
nlel1975 said:
Should be fine, the reason why you have this problem is because neither your WiFi or network card have drivers installed so you can’t continue. I have an old WiFi stick which installed the drivers when I plugged it in.

You’ll have to install the drivers when it’s been installed.
Click to expand...
Doing all the driver downloads onto a USB at the moment from my laptop.

Such a bizarre default setting though from Windows - seems a huge oversight!?
 
AlexTrickle said:
Such a bizarre default setting though from Windows - seems a huge oversight!?
Click to expand...
You'd think that modern wifi/ethernet would have some kind of basic driver just to get you online, but apparently not :o

I suppose it has always been an issue, but it didn't matter when Windows didn't require it just to install.
 
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