First waterloop - schematic included

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casecorsair700dgutfull.jpg


So while I wait for some splitter cables to arrive I did the above "artistic" rendering of what I think will be the best way to have my first ever waterloop.
The main concept of it is to have the shortest tubing length while still being somewhat practical.
Perhaps a longer res -> pump tube so the res can be brought out further for drainage. Removing it all would not be that big deal with a little help.

I think it pretty much speaks for itself. If anyone with experience could give some creative criticism or tips, it would be appreciated :)
 
Seems spot on really and the "artistic" rendering is just a tad better than i normally produce :)
Edit: only thing u will need having the top rad as an intake is some filters or u will get no end of crap in there :P
 
I'd move the res up a bay and have a fan controller where the res is so it makes filling a little easier :)

And have some fans intaking air into rad, and if possible, some pushing it out at the top aswell :D
 
Looking at the drawing again and i see he has the rad flush with the inside of the top of the case and the fans underneath in a pull config pulling air down into the case through the rad, nothing wrong with this setup but he will need some short screws to mount the rad to the case, other option is to use a push config and have the fans flush with the case and the rad below them, that way he can just use one set of screws going through the case and fans and into the rad.
 
Looking at the drawing again and i see he has the rad flush with the inside of the top of the case and the fans underneath in a pull config pulling air down into the case through the rad, nothing wrong with this setup but he will need some short screws to mount the rad to the case, other option is to use a push config and have the fans flush with the case and the rad below them, that way he can just use one set of screws going through the case and fans and into the rad.

Now I look at it, the fans blades would be touching the filter if they where above the case :P Having the grill between the fans and filters will be another reason to have it as you described. Thanks.

I'm also thinking the return tube from the radiator to the res might be too close and the tubing may kink because the barbs will be 90 degrees from each other. I will have to see about that one when I have the parts in there.
 

They are absolute rubbish.
I have 3 of them across the top of my 700D as I use the top fans as intakes cooling my 120.3 rad.
I have now taken them back off.

My PC runs all day and my GPU temps don't go above 36c.
When I play games the very hottest they have ever seen is 75c but since then I have increased rad fan speed, now they go no higher then 66c.

With 3 of them added to keep dust out my idle temp went up & up, after approx 7 hours my GPU's were idling as approx 69c with the rad fans on full. I didn't dare play a game. Once removed within the hour they were back below 40c. There is no way I will ever put those dust filters back on my PC.
 
I am using thoes filters and my temps have not really changed, they are not very restrictive, had to get mine direct tho as i wanted custom sizes.
 
Update time.

Some changes that had to be done:

  • Pump moved further back (towards the motherboard) to allow for a reasonable intake hose length.
  • DVD drive moved to the bottom to prevent conflict with the radiator and reservoir. Reservoir placed just above DVD drive for the most room when filling.
  • Push/Pull setup on radiator all contained inside the case.
  • All 9 PWM fans controlled by the CPU header on the motherboard.

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For the bad part, I foolishly setup the reservoir backwards so the intake is the outlet and vice versa. As I only realised this in the middle of filling/bleeding the loop I decided to leave it like that for now as the only downside is that I cannot go over 50% of the pumps power which seems to have little gain in such a small loop anyway. If/When I add GPU/s to the loop I can correct this.


So I Could finally get some overclocking done now and here is a screenshot to at least show the temperatures.
ibt47ghz2.png


This MSI board is a bit annoying as it does not allow for an offset voltage and the only way to keep C states to allow the voltage to decrease when idle is to leave the CPU voltage at auto.
This was a quick IBT test of 4.7GHz @ 1.384V (according to CPU-Z) and low voltage drop enabled.
I was hoping for 4.8 at that voltage but I can deal with this if its fully stable.

As for OcUK's V12 kit. With stock fan + T.I.M. and settings I had about 60C-62C under IBT, with the V12 kit + IC Diamond and stock settings I had 25-30C. I'm happy with that.

I did monitor the power draw as well and Crysis 2 made the highest demand of 520 Watts for the system (excluding monitor). So I don't feel the need to upgrade to an AX1200 :D


Thanks for the input guys :)
 
Nicely done. Getting the itch to put those GPUs under water too? :p

Cheers. Nah, I'll wait for the next generation on 28nm (?) before I commit to that. Hopefully they double in performance and have higher overclocking headroom so even a single card will be an upgrade :D
 
Kepler won't give double the performance of Fermi, Maxwell might but u will be looking at the end of 2013 or early 2014 for that :P
 
Yea the 660Ti's if that is what they will be called will probably give similar performance to the current best single chip gpu the 580 but they will be costing a little more than the current 560Ti's also.
 
Kepler won't give double the performance of Fermi, Maxwell might but u will be looking at the end of 2013 or early 2014 for that :P

Kepler will give same kind fo performance as 580gtx in SLI, if we are lucky. i recon even a pair of 480gtx would match Keple performance

umm i may jut buy another 480 and spank it with waterblock and be done with it LOL
 
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