First WC build, res thread leaking?

Kona* · 11 Nov 2011 at 22:47

Hey guys, hope you can help.

I've just set up my first WC build (based around the OcUK V8 kit) and everything is running smoothly, except one worry I have with the EK DCP 4.0 Combo res. When I first started filling the loop I could see the threads on the res start letting water around them and every time I stop and start the pump with the res top on it moves further and further down, like so:

Nothing has come out yet but ive got it on a bed of toilet roll just in case. It is as tight as I can screw it on, it only moved a couple of mm from being fresh out of the box so I don't think it needed tightening really!

Also, should the mayhems pastel be very frothy? I rinsed out everything with mayhems pure H2O prior to the build.

Last but not least, a work in progress shot:

Cheers

Craig

Cleeecooo · 11 Nov 2011 at 22:53

Looks amazing!!!!

IIRC, the fluid does fill the threads. Just wrap some tissue around it and check after a week of its damp at all or has been at any point.

Not sure about the fluid being frothy, but how frothy are we talking here?

I'm guessing it'll be fine as long as it doesn't look like a cappuccino

eggcup · 11 Nov 2011 at 23:14

As log as its not actually coming out I wouldnt worry too much, on another note, wouldnt it better to remove the 2 200mm fans and attach the rad to the case? i used to have this case and and kit and temps were fine with just the 2 push fans. I just think it would look better.

Kona* · 12 Nov 2011 at 11:50

I've had the loop running all night and no drips this morning. I've wired it all in to my PSU and got the system up and running - thanks for the help chaps.

eggcup said:
wouldnt it better to remove the 2 200mm fans and attach the rad to the case? i used to have this case and and kit and temps were fine with just the 2 push fans. I just think it would look better.

Don't say that! It took me bloody hours to get it all put together

Nah, I do agree it would look better but I had just spent £25 on those top fans (+1 one for the side) so I wasn't going to throw that money down the drain, if I ever watercool my GPU I'll move it up, or when I come to replace the barbs for compression fittings as I don't trust the barbs for some reason!

moogle · 12 Nov 2011 at 12:27

Kona* said:
Hey guys, hope you can help.

<snip>

Also, should the mayhems pastel be very frothy? I rinsed out everything with mayhems pure H2O prior to the build.

Liquid around the threads is alright, that's why the O-Ring is there to prevent it from leaking out.

As for the liquid being frothy, that's because you probably started the pump full whack and let it run and a little bit of air gets in and then the impeller mixes the liquid up.

It'll eventually become smooth once enough air is out but a quick way to get it running silent and without air is to hook the pump up to a fan controller and cycle it.

I did a small test with a 18W DDC and hooked it up to a Fractal Design case fan controller.

I let it start up and push the water through the system and then stopped it, topped up and continued until the parts ahead were full of water. Then I ran it on slow for a minute which flushed the bubbles inside the parts out and in the res they disappeared.

If I instead ran it at full speed after cycling it on and off to fill the system, the bubbles coming out the tubes and radiator and blocks would come back into the res fast and be sucked back in (EK Style res like that I mean). Running it slowly lets the bubbles escape before the liquid gets sucked back into the pump.

Jokester · 12 Nov 2011 at 12:29

Yeah the o-ring at the end of the thread is the seal.

Miidget · 12 Nov 2011 at 20:04

Well it looks amazing for one

skyripper · 14 Nov 2011 at 16:52

Kona* said:
Don't say that! It took me bloody hours to get it all put together

Nah, I do agree it would look better but I had just spent £25 on those top fans (+1 one for the side) so I wasn't going to throw that money down the drain, if I ever watercool my GPU I'll move it up, or when I come to replace the barbs for compression fittings as I don't trust the barbs for some reason!

I did a similar thing in my rig - I have the 120mm fans attached to the Rad, on the other side are the 140mm fans (fitted to the case) which only turn on when the temperature rises. So I have near silent Pull, and medium noise PushPull when everything is cranked.

jonneymendoza · 14 Nov 2011 at 17:01

u milking a cow in that loop or something

tipes · 14 Nov 2011 at 22:04

Kona* said:
Hey guys, hope you can help.

I've just set up my first WC build (based around the OcUK V8 kit) and everything is running smoothly, except one worry I have with the EK DCP 4.0 Combo res. When I first started filling the loop I could see the threads on the res start letting water around them and every time I stop and start the pump with the res top on it moves further and further down, like so:

Nothing has come out yet but ive got it on a bed of toilet roll just in case. It is as tight as I can screw it on, it only moved a couple of mm from being fresh out of the box so I don't think it needed tightening really!

Also, should the mayhems pastel be very frothy? I rinsed out everything with mayhems pure H2O prior to the build.

Last but not least, a work in progress shot:

Cheers

Craig

Don't worry about it - mine is the same but the o ring stops the leaking.

Mark

Mayhems · 15 Nov 2011 at 01:10

No it should not be froth we don't make milk shake lol

.

chases are as all ready said you have air bubbles in the system. These should settle out of the system.

The fluids i more viscus than normal and will take a little longer than normal to remove air bubble but you should see a improvement in temps with Pastel range.

All so because your Res is at the bottom of the system and not at the top its a lot harder to get air out of the system. I suggest tipping it back and forth (the whole computer) to get air out of the rad. Because the rad doesn't have a bleed hole or valve in it makes bleeding the system a lot harder.