fitting a gun safe

noj

noj

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so, fitting a gun safe in newer houses turns out to be a right pain.
All the internal walls are stud/plasterboard and all the external walls are thermalite blocks with plasterboard dob and dab on.

The ground floor externals would be brick but trying to find a place to fit a cabinet that also meets the wife's approval isn't easy!

The FEO said he's happy for me to fit it to the back of a stud wall horizontally so it spans across the studs and to then make sure you cant get behind it by filling in the gaps between the studs.

What's the best way to fill in between the studs, just fit some more wood between and screw into the studs?
 
Soldato
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I had a renter for 18 months and managed to put mine on external wall under the stairs- This was blocks with plaster and dab - I marked out where cabinet was to go then drilled two or three 2" holes - one about foot up from floor -one half way and other near top of cabinet - I then mixed up load of dab that was runny and used a mortor gun to squert it in behind plaster till it filled up to bottom hole then gaffa taped over hole and kept going from middle hole and so on till it was full behind plaster board - left it for few days then drilled through and into blocks behind - something like 4-5" - - used expanding bolts then.

When working we did fit some heavy stuff onto stud walls but we did get builder to put 4x4 where center of equipment was - drilled into center of stud and use expanding bolt's then some plaster board toggle fixing on edges - These things were heavier than full 10 gun cabinet.

Dave
 
Soldato
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how about revisiting the idea of fixing to an external dot and dab wall again? I've used these fixings:

http://buyrigifixonline.co.uk/

Although I didn't use them for dot and dab walls myself, I have used them on a block wall and they're superb. they're designed to get around the usual problems of fixing to dot+dab.

I'm using mine for a very heavy cantilever TV arm with a heavy TV on them; but I think the point is that they address the issues of dot+dab as well as being increadibly strong.
 
Soldato
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so, fitting a gun safe in newer houses turns out to be a right pain.
All the internal walls are stud/plasterboard and all the external walls are thermalite blocks with plasterboard dob and dab on.

The ground floor externals would be brick but trying to find a place to fit a cabinet that also meets the wife's approval isn't easy!

The FEO said he's happy for me to fit it to the back of a stud wall horizontally so it spans across the studs and to then make sure you cant get behind it by filling in the gaps between the studs.

What's the best way to fill in between the studs, just fit some more wood between and screw into the studs?


https://www.gov.uk/government/uploa...achment_data/file/117794/security_leaflet.pdf
Wherever possible, it should be fixed to a wall
that is built from bricks or concrete blocks or to
the floor

Based on the above I would recommend finding a suitable location to install it into either the brickwork or thermalite block.

The problem with the Rigifix is that it wouldn't be difficult to break the plasterboard from behind the safe and saw/bolt cut the fixings. I personally would remove a section of plasterboard the same size as the safe, then bolt the safe directly to the blockwork and fit a trim or mastic around the safe. This would mean it taking up less space due to being recessed and would be extremely difficult to remove if you use resin anchors.
 
Soldato
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FLO's also allow you to mount them on joists in the attic/loft if this helps.

The wife may be happier as its out the way and out the sight of anyone but yourselves but it may be a bit fo a pain to keep going in the loft to get it.

Just an idea
 
Soldato
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Bristol
It's generally not a good idea to keep guns and ammunition in the loft as temperatures and conditions vary too much.

Abyss's solution is probably the best and most secure, but also quite a bit of faff. If a burglar has the time and kit with them to bolt cut the fixings after breaking away all the surrounding plasterboard then it's probably going to get taken no matter what you do, and all of a sudden the case itself and lock will become the weakest point.
 

noj

noj

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The FEO suggested the loft, but I said no as its just a faff to get into. We have a lot of under eaves storage which is accessible but finding the right place to fit the safe is proving an issue - the pitch of the eave makes it impossible to mount vertically and the run of the floor joists makes it impossible to mount to the floor.

Having spoken to the FEO I'm planning to fit it to the studs of rear of a stud wall and in fill the gaps so you cant get a crowbar to the back of the safe.

Being honest here we're only really talking deterrent level as with most alarms, security systems. If someone really wants into the safe they'd get in regardless of where it was mounted.

The advantage of where I plan to put it is its well out of "casual sight". The house is also protected by an alarm etc which helps with the layered security requirements.

The FEO did just suggest purchasing a trigger guard/lock and mounting that to a roof joist using one way screws....a great idea had the wife not already bought me a gun safe as an Xmas gift!
 

noj

noj

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You sure the studword isn't a steel system? You can't fix to the metal stud walls and a lot of new builts use it.

100% positive :) its just normal timber stud wall

Strange, our FEO opposed the loft when I asked about it as an option for the reasons I stated.

I was surprised he suggested the loft, but as we don't have a loft ladder it just doesn't make sense to try.

It varies force to force. I'm now in Sussex and its quite different to when I was in Surrey.

A diy project this weekend.....
 
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I used studding and resin fixings to secure my cabinet to a thermalite wall which is hidden from view. The dot and dab gap will be around 10 mm and with some m10 stud set in to a wall it would take a very determined person to free it! My FEO was more than happy.
 
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Not fun related but has to follow I fly high power rockets. My Setups ended as

Garage for storage site
Internal lock across main front door
Alarmed on all access points and motion
18mm ply lined metal box that can be locked
Bolted or locked too the floor
4mm steel cage bolted to the floor surrounding the box
Said cage is locked
Cage is also alarmed
To be painted bright orange so can be identified
Relivent plaquards fitted to indicate contents

The law changed as I got half way. It was then optional to do all the above. A new guy started and did my inspection and more than happy. There is enough AP to make a big hole if it was messed with to go bang. They way they are packed until used for a rocket mean they just burn like a fire
 

noj

noj

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so in the end I fitted it in an under eaves cupboard:

secured 2 x 1.5m lengths of 32mmx275mm timber horizontally across the studs. One above the other - this is to make it harder to get a crowbar down behind the gun safe itself with any kind of leverage on it

I then secured the gun safe through the lower timber panel into the studs using 6 x 75mm coach screws.

You wouldn't have a clue it was there unless you went looking in the under eaves for something.
 
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Start off with the right questions.

Where is a place you'd like to put the cabinet?
Are the walls in that location solid brick? If so you're laughing. If not what are they, where are the strong spots (beams etc) and is there a suitable solid brick wall you can use?
How many weapons and what size do you need AND IMAGINE NEEDING to store?
What about ammo storage? I'm not up to date on FAC storage so I don't know specifics there.
What guidance does the local police give (warning: mine have said no home visits while covid-19 is about but a phone call might help)
Any local gun smiths or clubs who can give advice as they might know local quirks?
I know someone who's cabinet was solid but the guns still got nicked years ago. Police had seen the cabinet and were happy with it but enough time and basic tools thieves could get in most cabinets. Not worth doing a Fort knox 10 gun monster for a single 12 bore if a smaller simpler cabinet would meet your needs and police requirements

FluffySheep
 

JRJ

JRJ

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Can you fasten these to the ground floor instead?

Probably a good chance this will be concrete in a modern house.

My local FLO has been happy previously with this, 4 bolts through the base into concrete and 2 smaller fixings up top to stop it being rocked.

Will need to look at locations in my refurb and get noggins in while I remember.
 
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Check with your FAO what they want, most of them seem to have slightly different ideas about what is acceptable.
For instance, When I owned 2 shotguns they were on simple gunclamps in the loft, and the FAO was perfectly happy.
That's apparently a no no but there you go...
 
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