Fitting an RCD/RCBO for a shower?

I'd bet that you are wrong on point two... what would be the point of feeding a 30A re-wireable switchfuse from a 30A rw-wireable in an adjacent board? I'd hazard a guess that his circuits on the 3 way board are cooker, sockets and lights and the separate unit is piggy backed off the incomming tails.

Even if you *were* right, and it was fed from one of the 30A fuses in the 3 way board, the OP has problems becuase none of those fuseways are designed to take more than a 30A circuit... looks wooden framed as well and mounted to a wooden board (a no, no with those open backed boards unless the optional paxolin backer was fitted)

You'r totally right, In my haste and stupidity, I totally over-looked the fact that its a 1-way Board and not a Double Pole Isolator :).

Would be a laugh to see the results of a Insulation resistance test on old VIR cable too ! :D
 
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Yep, compliance is an issue, well nowadays it is for sure.
My brother was a spark, so I just assume everybody is happy to read big fat textbooks if they want to know something, I guess that's probably not realistic.
 
My brother was a spark, so I just assume everybody is happy to read big fat textbooks if they want to know something, I guess that's probably not realistic.

Theres a lot to know before replacing a CU, its not just simply a case (IMHO) of going to the local library getting out a big fat book and learning everything you need (that would be the equivelent of attempting to give a presentation in spanish by getting a big book out of the library on spanish the week before - its not going to work, its a long ongoing learning process)

I have spoken to a few non-electricians who I'd consider competant, almost without exception they are from an engineering background and have built their knowledge of electrical installation up over a number of years
 
what is this 1-way Board and not a Double Pole Isolator all about, something I should know about,
and what is being piggybacked, and what on earth does that left had fusebox do?
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Just some more pictures I found, but that blown fusebox does work, shower exploded, it was a gainsborough impulse 10.5kw, its funny how I've lived in these houses for 6 years and not paid much attention to this kind of thing. (did I mention our boiler exploded last month? had to fork out for a new one) and there's loads of surges everywhere one of my surge protector things was not a pretty sight. and recently I've been feeling electricity around the sink...

I know. Don't mention it.
 
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is that a 4mm twin + earth to the fusebox?

to try and comply with the 17th edition and part P i would suggest an RCBO for safety measures, but without you having a 'upto date' distribution board im not sure, it looks as if your fuse has blown previously? where is your gas meter located? by the looks of the flexible pipe it doesnt look like it would be in an ATEX approved zone which is a danger also?
 
what is this 1-way Board and not a Double Pole Isolator all about, something I should know about,
and what is being piggybacked, and what on earth does that left had fusebox do?
29012011184.jpg

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29012011185.jpg

29012011170_1.jpg


Just some more pictures I found, but that blown fusebox does work, shower exploded, it was a gainsborough impulse 10.5kw, its funny how I've lived in these houses for 6 years and not paid much attention to this kind of thing. (did I mention our boiler exploded last month? had to fork out for a new one) and there's loads of surges everywhere one of my surge protector things was not a pretty sight. and recently I've been feeling electricity around the sink...

I know. Don't mention it.

jeez thats some un protected cables there, it seems like a single phase supply (being on 230v) but that doesnt matter, if your shower,cooker etc.. are feeding off that then there is some ampeage (sp?) coming through them cables, remember doesnt matter what the voltage is, its amps what kill you, 0.5amps is enough and many things can draw this current.
 
Please for the love of god dont relpace the mcb/ fuse with just a rcd, the rcd just trips on current on the CPC, it doesnt protect the circuit from overload.
but looking at that wiring looks like its been modified by a non-professional over a couple of years.
You most defenitely want to get rid of the fuses there burn out time is a lot higher than a mcb. Might want to get a spark to trace the cable thats doing notih just incase someone brushes up against a loose cabel or earthed radiator and gets a shock.

The rcd, will be tripping because you have current on the earth. check the connections in the double pole socket and shower for poor or loose connections. What millie amp is the rcd? have you got a computer, server/plasma tv on the same circuit as they have big earth leakage due to the psu.

jeez thats some un protected cables there, it seems like a single phase supply (being on 230v) but that doesnt matter, if your shower,cooker etc.. are feeding off that then there is some ampeage (sp?) coming through them cables, remember doesnt matter what the voltage is, its amps what kill you, 0.5amps is enough and many things can draw this current.

think youll find that the minimum to kill is 60ma not 500ma, hence why the fuses in gs38 spec equipment is 50ma. The wiring does look bad though i would get a local electricain to upgrade your customer side and if the service gear is knacered inform your electric supplier that their equipment is dangerous.
 
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Please for the love of god dont relpace the mcb/ fuse with just a rcd, the rcd just trips on current on the CPC, it doesnt protect the circuit from overload.
but looking at that wiring looks like its been modified by a non-professional over a couple of years.
You most defenitely want to get rid of the fuses there burn out time is a lot higher than a mcb. Might want to get a spark to trace the cable thats doing notih just incase someone brushes up against a loose cabel or earthed radiator and gets a shock.

The rcd, will be tripping because you have current on the earth. check the connections in the double pole socket and shower for poor or loose connections. What millie amp is the rcd? have you got a computer, server/plasma tv on the same circuit as they have big earth leakage due to the psu.



think youll find that the minimum to kill is 60ma not 500ma, hence why the fuses in gs38 spec equipment is 50ma. The wiring does look bad though i would get a local electricain to upgrade your customer side and if the service gear is knacered inform your electric supplier that their equipment is dangerous.

my apologies in college it was drilled into us that 0.5 amps was more than enough to kill a healthy person, but yes takes very little amps.
 
my apologies in college it was drilled into us that 0.5 amps was more than enough to kill a healthy person, but yes takes very little amps.

no need to apologize, its the reason why you install a 30ma rcd for areas where water and humans and electricity could come into contact, in theory it should trip before it kills you. but no-one ever checks there equipment tbh
 
Meh, I've had plenty of electric shocks and it's never done me any harm, does get the heart-rate going however! All mine have been way over 60ma (central heating circuitry, so definitely <3A... probably <2A in reality.). Had one on Wednesday last time, think it was number 4 in about 4 years.

Certainly wouldn't advise messing about with 30A+ stuff though, or even 13A normal house wiring if you're not competent!
 
It's not just about electric shocks though. It's a huge fire hazard. My sister has just lost her 5 bed house to an electrical wiring fire. It was so intense it peeled the plaster off the wall, destroyed all the windows, doors and everything in the house. Insurance is paying out nearly 250k.

The op might not be so lucky if a fire was to start up whilst he's out, burns the house down and the insurers find a dodgy fuse box/wiring and refuse to pay or god forbid someone dies.

It's just not worth doing major electrical alterations to a house unless you REALLY know what you're doing. Anyone can do it, but can they do it correctly? Answer to that is mostly no!

Electrics and DIY don't mix
 
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Looks like a company called Hodgett & Bodgett have done work on your electrics. Get a reputable sparks in and get your wallet out is my advice.

think it was Bodgett & Scarper!


ive had 10,000A board trip on me, was working in a UPS room and opened the UPS unit to fit a modbus connection and something from inside was loose and dropped onto the bus bar luckily i was on a 10000v mat and wasnt touching anything at the time, big blue photon flash and deafened me for a good while!
 
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