Fixing a 20kg TV to a metal stud dry wall

HI
I use these in our flat for all our tv's (on stud walls )

https://www.toggler-uk.com/snaptoggle

+1 for these, were recommended on a youtube video I saw and have had 1 of our TVs on these on a dry wall / metal stud uprights, for about the last 6 years. I'd only use a flat tv bracket though so the weight is sheer force vertically down the wall rather than a cantilever type tv bracket as that would put more strain on the wall.
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ECDysfNhx_E

The amount of weight the fixings took before the plasterboard failed was-
GeeFix £2.23 each Total failure weight in 12.5mm plasterboard was 125KG or 275Lbs
Hollow wall anchors £0.50 each Total failure weight 109KG or 240Lbs
Snap toggles £1.30 each Total failure weight 129KG or 284Lbs
Blue GripIt £0.83 each Total failure weight 101KG or 222Lbs
Snap toggles £1.30 each Total failure weight 129KG or 284Lbs
Spring Toggles £0.54 each Total failure weight 176KG or 387Lbs
Metal plasterboard screw £0.37 each Total failure weight 53KG or 116Lbs

so the best one is also the second cheapest

grip it was the second worst performer. yet middle in terms of cost. however i don't think the price is right checking online just now it's £5 for a box of 4. so £1.25 each. it's worse than all of it's competitors in that price range.
 
Not sure I’d fit a 20KG TV onto a swing arm on a drywall. Close to the wall, it’ll be fine, as the weight is being supported by the thickness equal to that of the height of the wall from the fitting to the floor. However, as the TV moved further away, the centre of mass will move further away from the wall and hence, the moment will increase.

I’d probably look to screw into masonry or brick behind it to support it properly, if possible.
 
Do the math to work out how heavy the TV will be when fully extended on the arm. I put my TV / arm using grip it and very happy.... But it was a smaller TV (about 7kg). All depends on the wall etc, don't think I had enough depth for snap toggles.
 
I've got mostly hollow stud walls on internal walls due to buying a new build.
When I buy a bigger TV I will be wall mounting it, but I wouldn't trust any of the plasterboard fixings to hold it. What I plan to do is cut away part of the plasterboard, and make a wooden frame attached onto the studs which the bracket would attach to.
I also would at the same time run the cables down inside the wall to near the bottom for a stealth look with no wires. Just a suggestion. ;)

I've tried a most of the fixings mentioned, but I wouldn't trust any of them for a TV, as at the end of the day they're only as strong as the plasterboard is, which isn't very strong.
 
I've got mostly hollow stud walls on internal walls due to buying a new build.
When I buy a bigger TV I will be wall mounting it, but I wouldn't trust any of the plasterboard fixings to hold it. What I plan to do is cut away part of the plasterboard, and make a wooden frame attached onto the studs which the bracket would attach to.
I also would at the same time run the cables down inside the wall to near the bottom for a stealth look with no wires. Just a suggestion. ;)

I've tried a most of the fixings mentioned, but I wouldn't trust any of them for a TV, as at the end of the day they're only as strong as the plasterboard is, which isn't very strong.

This is how I did mine.

https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/posts/28360182

Had a piece of plywood cut by a company with a CNC machine. The pictures in the above link are in a bedroom where the wall is actually the dividing wall to our neighbour so is blockwork. However the other bedroom is an internal stud partition so the plywood stud brace idea was created for that room but I used the same design in both rooms for consistency throughout our home. The holes in the plywood were placed to suit the distance between vertical studs for the room with the hollow wall. Used large coach bolts into suitable raw plugs for the blockwork and snap toggles into the hollow metal studwork in the other room.

One set of sockets were largely done at the TV level but I added the network and brush plate sockets. The latter allows for a hdmi cable to be passed down the wall to the corresponding brush plate below.

The advantage to this is my electrical sockets keep infrastructure cabling in the wall and consumer device electrical cabling behind the TV but not burried in the wall. The slight downside is the thickness of the plywood steps the TV bracket and thus the TV slightly more away from the wall. The thickness of the plywood does help to accommodate the thickness of plugs though and I will counter the TV not being quite so flat to the wall when I get a newer slimmer TV when my old plasma dies.
 
Back
Top Bottom