****Fresh random image thread (with rule addition)Every post MUST contain an image!****

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The_blue said:
http://i905.photobucket.com/albums/ac258/bashan_2010/Technical/Fuel_valve_manual.jpg[IMG]


Still using copper for water?[/QUOTE]

Slightly old fashioned, maybe, but not incorrect.

[quote="Marky, post: 19145779"]Yellow handle for water valve - whereas yellow normally dictates a gas valve?

[img]http://i687.photobucket.com/albums/vv233/ScarletTears19/Evanescence/amy_lee.jpg[img][/QUOTE]

Good guess, and quite possibly you are correct. However the colour of the ball valve handle now seems chiefly determined by the supplier of the valve rather than the contents of the pipe. In domestic applications there's not really a recognised colour scheme for lever valves, except that blue handle is assumed to mean that the water is potable (and maybe red is assumed to be hot, but I don't know how rigidly this is stuck to, as it's blinking obvious which is hot from the picture). The lever valves I used are indeed rated for gas, but not designed exclusively for it. Most full bore lever ball valves are rated for gas anyway, it seems. Screwfix actually only had yellow lever valves in stock on the day I needed them.

For dishwasher valves then yes, red = hot and blue = cold where possible. But my mistake is a structural one rather than colour coding one.

[quote="Bubo, post: 19146657"][IMG]http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee100/barrind/upsidedown.jpg[IMG][/QUOTE]

What's upside down?

Nobody's mentioned what I was referring to so far. It's quite hard to spot. Here's a clue: look in the top left of the photo. And another clue: I need to drain down the loft's cold cistern in order to rectify.

[quote=N19h7m4r3]A good attempt but no where in the books does anyone ever say" Winter is coming..and so am I...aaugh!"

It is related to the show however.[/quote]

Who mentioned the books? He even posted a poster of the show, you strange man :p.

[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/7Ggth.jpg
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Reaper 392 said:
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn110/reaper_392/sign.jpg[IMG]
*picture is not aimed at you robbie, i just found it funny*[/QUOTE]

Sure, sure :'(

:p

[quote="Reaper 392, post: 19149612"]you put the valve too close to the boiler/other pipe in the pic, so now you cant push it back far enough to turn it off?[/QUOTE]

Not quite. The valve opens fine, although it was a bit of a squeeze to tighten the compression joint on the rear left valve, due to its proximity to the hot water tank! That was almost noob mistake # 1, but it was ok in the end with some cunning spanner work.

The actual answer I had in mind was: PTFE tape on the top thread of the compression joint back left. But you buggers have discovered about ten other questionable pieces of plumbing :D.

PTFE tape should only be used on the olive, if at all. Since making the joint, I have discovered that PTFE tape on the thread is:

a) pointless, as the seal is not made on the thread anyway.
b) brave, as the tape can stop you compressing the olive sufficiently because it resists the nut tightening onto the olive.
c) foolish, as the tape decreases friction between the nut and the thread, which can cause the joint to loosen over time.

PTFE the olive (preferably a copper olive) only if the joint still weeps once tightened hand tight + max 1/2 turn.

Fascinating eh?!

[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/34gFz.jpg
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