Frosty's 780Ti X79 Overhaul

MjFrosty said:
u9wjv.jpg
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Thanks for these shots Very helpful

Can you also take a shot of the left lower hand side - left from above when you have the PSU in place?

The front 240 is a crossflow rad, yes?

Also, will the GPUs flow into the bottom 420, which then goes into the 240 and then xflow 240?

What direction do the fans push/pull in the lower actions? Are you pushing air across from bottom to top in pic above?

Sorry for all the questions

Looking awesome

And GL finding your screwdriver kit :D:D:D:D
 
Due to the holidays I've been preoccupied (sounds a bit backward). So have had time to think of what else is worth adding.

Added a temperature sensor for the bottom T-joint where the drain valve is, and adding a 100ml res to the front rad and pump/bay res.

Now the reason for this was originally because I didn't have a gender changer to install a 90 degree fitting between the front rad and the bay res to avoid kinks, but seeing as the space is there and this is a large loop it could do with more res space :D. Also bought some rotary EK fittings for the CPU block.
 
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Can anyone see complications with the res being at this point in the loop? E.g pumping it out of the top of the res into the intake on the bay res? Quite a strain on a loop this size possibly? Even for 2 D5s.
 
Knock together a quick diagram of what's where and flow path etc. Helped me when I was doing mine rather than trying to visualise it and easy to stick on here to get suggestions :)

Watching this closely as 3xTi's is one of my choices for my upgrade :D
 
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Will do thanks :). On phone at the moment but basically what I'm concerned about is the flow from bottom 240 to front 240 to the 100ml res and then UP through the top of it into the bay/pump res. If someone pictures what I'm talking about before I get on it ;)
 
MjFrosty said:
Due to the holidays I've been preoccupied (sounds a bit backward). So have had time to think of what else is worth adding.

Added a temperature sensor for the bottom T-joint where the drain valve is, and adding a 100ml res to the front rad and pump/bay res.

Now the reason for this was originally because I didn't have a gender changer to install a 90 degree fitting between the front rad and the bay res to avoid kinks, but seeing as the space is there and this is a large loop it could do with more res space :D. Also bought some rotary EK fittings for the CPU block.
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For a drain value, have you thought about having a quick disconnect in the loop and to drain the loop having a spare bit of tubing with another quick disconnect fitted to it.
 
MjFrosty said:
Will do thanks :). On phone at the moment but basically what I'm concerned about is the flow from bottom 240 to front 240 to the 100ml res and then UP through the top of it into the bay/pump res. If someone pictures what I'm talking about before I get on it ;)
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Not sure about the 100ml res have I missed that in the pictures as looks like just the bay res with the 2xD5's ?

The 2 D5's should be ample for the loop I think especially with a parallel link on the graphics as they would probably be one of the most restrictive parts of the loop.
 
Gotcha, thought I was going blind, blue box next to the case in the pic ?

For the 100ml res could you not mount it so that the in/out are at the bottom of the res i.e 240 outlet to 100ml in then 100ml out to bay res ?

If you mounted the 100ml so that the bottom ports were kind of level with the bottom of the drive bays then the pipe runs from the rad and then to the bay res would be slightly upwards which would stop air getting trapped at the top of the front 240.

Might be thinking of it wrong though depends how you are planning to mount the 100ml.
 
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Not much to report until the res and final bits arrive :)

Just had a call from someone who bought one of my Titans. EK block leaked from the seal on the actual block, and one of his VRMs cooked. Doesn't inspire me with confidence on my first GPU w/c attempt lol :D.

For the EK bridge and the o-rings, can anyone recommend a silicon grease, or will any do?

Once it's on, I want it to stay on, and apparently the o-rings are notoriously fiddly.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Scuba-div...ra-TORCH-regulator-DIVE-kit-BCD-/111106672557

This for example
 
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Didn't use anything on my TriSLi serial bridge just made sure it was all clean.

I found the best way for me was to lie the bridge on a table with the ports upward and O rings in place, then put one card with the block/link on top.

Then slide the bridge to the edge of the table so I could put the screw in place from underneath and nip it up. Check the alignment and that it looks okay then final tighten. Repeat for each card.
 
MjFrosty said:
Not much to report until the res and final bits arrive :)

Just had a call from someone who bought one of my Titans. EK block leaked from the seal on the actual block, and one of his VRMs cooked. Doesn't inspire me with confidence on my first GPU w/c attempt lol :D.

For the EK bridge and the o-rings, can anyone recommend a silicon grease, or will any do?

Once it's on, I want it to stay on, and apparently the o-rings are notoriously fiddly.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Scuba-div...ra-TORCH-regulator-DIVE-kit-BCD-/111106672557

This for example
Click to expand...


Now these are the kind of stories that put me off Water cooling the Gpu's.

How's this old jalopy of yours getting on btw? :cool:
 
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