Fury (combat robot) Build Log

Mr. Brightside said:
Probably whatever we can find in the way of scrap sheet steel. Colour scheme is going to be light ish green. And yeah, we'll almost definitely have an inner skin around the electronics, and ideally the batteries too. Weight limit is 100kg, so it will be fun trying to choose something thick enough to stop an axe while also staying under that limit.
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Do you need solid skin? If it isn't in the rules I'd suggest some of that steel mesh (like they put over windows for security), it's light weight, holes are small enough to stop any pointy bits getting through and it's very strong and resists deforming quite well compared to the same weight of flat steel.

Then you just need a light weight skin over internal components to prevent small bits of flying debris doing harm.


Can't make a monocoque from it of course, but you appear to have gone down the rigid frame route anyway.
 
Jonny69 said:
Struggling to get your pictures to load up fully so I'll check back and have a better read later, but DUDE you really should ditch the stick welder and use mig!!!
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Money money money... :p My dad already had the arc welder hence using that - free.

D.P. said:
I would use a hall-sensorr on the wheels. Accelerometers are noisy and suffer from drift.
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Didn't know that, thanks. Don't Hall sensors require fairly complicated drive circuitry, and if so are they generally sold with this included? The accelerometer we'd be using just gives a 0-5v analogue output, with 2.5v being 'on target'.

Telescopi said:
Do you need solid skin? If it isn't in the rules I'd suggest some of that steel mesh (like they put over windows for security), it's light weight, holes are small enough to stop any pointy bits getting through and it's very strong and resists deforming quite well compared to the same weight of flat steel.

Then you just need a light weight skin over internal components to prevent small bits of flying debris doing harm.


Can't make a monocoque from it of course, but you appear to have gone down the rigid frame route anyway.
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Will suggest this to the rest of the team, might be worth looking into. Only thing that immediately comes to mind is that although you are allowed things such as nets, if the opponent becomes ensnared in them and is immobilised as a result, you automatically forfeit the match.
 
Only three of us still in the area now, but we did some more today and are now well on the way to having a rolling chassis!

1) Got some nuts, bolts and casters from B&Q.
2) Drilled holes for, and mounted gearmotors on their rails.
3) Reinforced the bodywork frames above where we cut out the lower rails so that they could be removed without interfering with the motors.
4) Measured and cut box section pieces to size for the caster mounting points.

Next on the list is completing construction of the caster mounts, and attaching the wheels to the gearboxes - then we have a rolling chassis and can focus on the electronics (the bit which really interests me :p).

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Drilling holes for the motors in the motor mount rails. Takes quite a while!

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Casters from B&Q.

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Topping up the batteries - we hadn't actually tested them or charged them since they arrived, so thought it a good idea to make sure they've got some charge in them.

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Caster mounts (cut but not assembled). The short lengths of box section will be welded to the main lengths, and the casters attached by 6mm bolts through the box section pieces. Reason for adding the pieces on either side is to stop the casters bending around the rail if they're shock loaded from a fall with the caster pointing sideways.

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Chassis with gearmotors bolted on, and caster rails in place to illustrate where they will go. In order to match the height of the rear wheels, we'll need to raise these rails up above the chassis by putting short pieces of box section between them and the chassis.

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Reinforcement strip on bodywork frame, positioned above height of motor. These were actually 19" 1U rackmount blanking pieces, spare, from my home network cabinet.

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Mockup, showing where the reinforcement strips are in relation to the motors.
 
flipper is a pretty tame weapon now, spinning death disc is were its at.

razor was by far the coolest robot, could have done so much distruction but i think they were told not to do to much damage

build threads are always good, so keep the updates coming
 
Where will you ftake this robot to fight? Is there some underground robot 'fight club' similar to that in Spaced? :D
 
If you want something axe-proof, try MDF or a similiar reconstituted wood product... It'll work much better than metal since it can absorb blows rather than just resisting them. If you want, cover it with thin plate to give it a better edge resistance. Our ancestors worked out pretty well how to stop a heavy blade :)
 
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Mr. Brightside said:
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10" Tungsten carbide tipped saw we bought for the project. Everything we've used so far (steel wise) was scrap - a few lengths of box section, and a pair of old car ramps will form the frame for bodywork.
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This needs to be your weapon!!!

TrUz
 
utajoker said:
flipper is a pretty tame weapon now, spinning death disc is were its at.
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Read up - not allowed :p

Northwind said:
If you want something axe-proof, try MDF or a similiar reconstituted wood product... It'll work much better than metal since it can absorb blows rather than just resisting them. If you want, cover it with thin plate to give it a better edge resistance. Our ancestors worked out pretty well how to stop a heavy blade :)
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Thanks, have added it to the list of things to remember for when we get that far :)

TrUz said:
This needs to be your weapon!!!
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Read up - not allowed :p

Had a play around on Livewire (circuit simulator) yesterday at ways of driving the N-Channel MOSFETs acting as current sources (i.e. getting a high enough voltage on the gate without resorting to extra batteries in series) and came up with this:

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It's just a proof of concept so some of the details would change when I use it in the motor controllers. I'd probably run it off the 5V supply (and adjust component values and quantities accordingly), and would need to change the capacitors in the voltage multiplier to improve the startup time.
 
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