General Filament Chat

The A1 Mini isn't limited to just PLA. It can quite happily handly PETG and if you replace the nozzle with a hardened nozzle, it'll do abrasive filaments too.
I'd probably look at Sunlu, Tinmorry, Ziro but I mainly use PETG (and variants).
 
The A1 Mini isn't limited to just PLA. It can quite happily handly PETG and if you replace the nozzle with a hardened nozzle, it'll do abrasive filaments too.
I'd probably look at Sunlu, Tinmorry, Ziro but I mainly use PETG (and variants).

No i was aware of that, but the issue i will have with PETG is storage. I wont have the space and interest in filaments (at least so early into this) that are so humidity intolerant etc.
I guess if i ever needed anything printing in more specialist filaments, then my brother can knock out things on his printer.

Do you have experience with those suggested filaments on an A1 or mini at all? or does it not really matter and they are just proven good alternatives?

I think the only things I will end up printing will be small fidgets for the kids or paintable models, or practical things for around the house etc. At least early on until it inevitably gets its hooks in me like it does to most ...
 
You'll probably find that PETG is a lot less of a problem absorbing water than you think. I used to run a spool just open and didn't really have a problem most of the time - only once when one went brittle but I'd probably had it out for months.
You could always print from a container with dessicant in if you get problems. Something like this: https://makerworld.com/en/models/419342-filament-storage-bunker#profileId-321995
You'd need dessicant, a couple of skate bearings and a PC4-M10 or PC4-M6 connector...and the correct containers.

I mainly run an X1C so that's what gets the variety of filaments. The A1M I mainly use for prototyping while the X1C is busy so it only has a spool of black PETG that's on a cardboard spool that doesn't work well in the AMS.
I think about the only PLA I've run is some Ziro PLA-CF (need hardened nozzle but prints very nicely) or some Eryone tri-colour PLA (mini cardboard spools though) which works very nicely for fidget type things such as the articulated octopus.
 
Thanks for the really quick and helpful replies.

So if i wanted to print (example) with PLA wood like filaments, or PETG you would suggest a hardened nozzle regardless? Something else to add to the list then!
 
Definitely. The wood filaments contain lumps and those are abrasive when you're talking a soft brass nozzle.
PETG doesn't need a hardened nozzle...though it prints absolutely fine with one.
There are apparently some downsides to a hardened steel nozzle in that they don't conduct heat as well...but frankly I've never noticed any issues and it means you don't have to worry about matching nozzles to filaments if you just run the hardened ones.
 
Thats interesting and also helpful!

Ill have to find a suitable nozzle now for the A1 mini in preparation for when i get some PLA Wood type filament on order!
 
I’ve been using Bambu PLA since Christmas and I must say it’s been printing flawlessly. Never had any big issues with sunlu or Elgoo but the Bambu filament does print a bit nicer without having to mess around with any calibration tests
 
Four skate bearings, two cylinders, a frame to mount them all in and you have under-mount spool bearing. Bound to be some on Printables (et al) ready to go.
 
Picked up a roll of SUNLU Easy PA as my first attempt at using nylon. So far 0 issues with printing it, and it seems very flexible and strain-resistant.
 
Can anyone recommend me a place to get high quality PA12-GF? Bambu Labs doesn't seem to stock it.

I printed a riser for my P2S with PA6-GF but AI says it might fail due to Hydrolysis. Apparently PA12-GF is a better choice.
 
Any reason you dont want to print it in PLA/PETG, my riser is PLA+ and its solid enough for me not to want to print it in anything harder..
 
Heat resistance mainly, I have read that PLA becomes brittle and creeps with repeated thermal cycling. Nylon is the most heat resistant, just I did not realise that PA12 was better with regards to moisture ingress. My thinking was that I want something that will last.
 
Mines been fine in over a year but I get where you are coming from.
 
If we're talking about a riser to lift the glass lid higher so the PTFE tube doesn't keep scraping along it, mine is PETG and has been fine. I print mainly PETG-GF currently at 280°C nozzle with an 80°C bed and it's not been a problem.
If you're talking the flip arms for an AMS, I went PET-CF.... because I couldn't read enough to notice the difference between that and the much cheaper PETG-CF *facepalm*
 
PETG will be fine for a riser. If it’s outside the printer, it’s not getting heat cycled and using an engineering filament Is massive overkill. Even ABS is overkill.
 
I have checked with a few AI bots to compare materials

Why This Matters for Your P2S Riser

❌ PA6-GF: Avoid unless you live in a desert
The hidden killer: Hydrolysis attacks amide bonds in humid air → progressive embrittlement. After 6 months at 50% RH, impact strength drops 60%+ and creep accelerates nonlinearly.
Real-world consequence: Your riser prints fine initially, but after 3–4 months of daily printing (enclosure cycling 30°C→50°C), it develops microcracks at the mounting holes. One day, it snaps mid-print — destroying your print and potentially damaging the printer frame.
Verdict: Only consider if your workshop is consistently <30% RH (e.g., climate-controlled lab). For 95% of users, it’s a ticking time bomb.

⚠️ PETG-CF: The "Good Enough" Compromise (with caveats)
Pros: Low cost, easy to print, good baseline stiffness. Creep stabilizes after initial settling (no runaway degradation).
Cons: Reversible moisture absorption causes dimensional drift. At 50% RH, expect 0.1mm+ deflection over 6 months — enough to cause intermittent layer shifts on large prints. Vibration damping is adequate but not optimal (CF reduces resonance but doesn’t absorb energy like nylon).
Real-world consequence: You’ll need to re-level the bed every 2–3 weeks as the riser slowly creeps. Humidity spikes (e.g., rainy season) cause sudden misalignment. Still functional, but annoying for precision work.
Verdict: Acceptable if you tolerate maintenance — but not ideal for a "set-and-forget" riser. Best for users who level daily anyway.

✅ PA12-GF: The Optimal Choice (Yes, it’s worth it)
Why it wins: PA12’s extra methylene group in the polymer chain makes it hydrolysis-resistant — unlike PA6, it doesn’t absorb enough water to break bonds. At 50% RH, it absorbs <0.5% moisture (vs. 2.0%+ for PA6-GF), so properties stay stable.
Pros: Near-zero creep acceleration, excellent vibration damping (PA12’s natural flexibility + GF reinforcement), and maintains impact strength for years. Handles P2S enclosure temps (40–50°C) with ease.
Cons: Slightly trickier to print (needs 260–280°C nozzle, 80–100°C bed, enclosure recommended — but your P2S has this!). Cost is ~20% higher than PETG-CF.
Real-world consequence: Print it once, install it, and forget it for 2+ years. No bed leveling drift from the riser, no vibration-induced ringing, no surprise cracks. It’ll outlast your printer’s nozzle.
Verdict: The clear winner for functional longevity. If you value precision and hate re-leveling, PA12-GF pays for itself in saved time and frustration.
 
I think you're well into AI hallucination territory here. If you're talking about a riser that sits on the top of the printer - the only thing I've ever heard called a riser - then it could totally collapse and you wouldn't have to re-level your bed. Also, the P2S has auto-levelling so as long as you're within half a mile of level, it can compensate. Max weight is likely to be 5kg ish (unless you're talking about some sort of multi-AMS carousel) so you could make it from cardboard and it would withstand the weight. You certainly don't need any sort of fibre reinforcement - if you like the look, fine...but you don't NEED it. Most of the fibre reinforcement doesn't massively help with real world strength tests anyway - it's more about aesthetics, some stiffness and dimensional accuracy (they don't shrink/warp as much).
Mine is PETG. I printed it the best part of a year ago. It has an AMS on a flipper on top and it was totally "print it once and forget about it". I've had no bed levelling issues, no vibration induced ringing (input shaping counters that anyway and you're never going to get a system that doesn't resonate at some frequency), no "surprise cracks"...and it's outlasted more nozzles than I care to admit.
If you want to go with the AI's opinion, you might want to ask it how many riser's it's printed personally and how those went! Look, you can totally print it out of PA12-GF if you really must but it's way pricier than it needs to be, totally overkill and you'll most likely have problems with the stuff being too wet to print until you dry it and keep it dry while you print...and then dry it some more next time you want to print with it.
 
I think you're well into AI hallucination territory here. If you're talking about a riser that sits on the top of the printer - the only thing I've ever heard called a riser - then it could totally collapse and you wouldn't have to re-level your bed. Also, the P2S has auto-levelling so as long as you're within half a mile of level, it can compensate. Max weight is likely to be 5kg ish (unless you're talking about some sort of multi-AMS carousel) so you could make it from cardboard and it would withstand the weight. You certainly don't need any sort of fibre reinforcement - if you like the look, fine...but you don't NEED it. Most of the fibre reinforcement doesn't massively help with real world strength tests anyway - it's more about aesthetics, some stiffness and dimensional accuracy (they don't shrink/warp as much).
Mine is PETG. I printed it the best part of a year ago. It has an AMS on a flipper on top and it was totally "print it once and forget about it". I've had no bed levelling issues, no vibration induced ringing (input shaping counters that anyway and you're never going to get a system that doesn't resonate at some frequency), no "surprise cracks"...and it's outlasted more nozzles than I care to admit.
If you want to go with the AI's opinion, you might want to ask it how many riser's it's printed personally and how those went! Look, you can totally print it out of PA12-GF if you really must but it's way pricier than it needs to be, totally overkill and you'll most likely have problems with the stuff being too wet to print until you dry it and keep it dry while you print...and then dry it some more next time you want to print with it.
You are correct! It would seem that the AI and I where conversing about different types of riser. I was wrong to go down the PA route . PLA is fine for the P2S Riser - AMS Flipper. I have switched back to my original PLA version. Thank you for keeping me right!
 
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