Getting started with the Zalman Reserator 1 V2

[W3bbo2]

So my Reserator 1 V2 arrived earlier this week and I'm wanting to liquid-cool my new HTPC set-up because even with the panels shut the three fans in the HTPC are just too loud.

I'm the proud owner of an Omaura/Karma TF11 HTPC chassis with the IR and OLED kits fitted. It has a Seasonic 460W fanless PSU and passively cooled GeForce GT 520 GPU. The Intel Sandy Bridge Core i5 CPU currently uses the stock cooler and the case came with two quiet (but not silent) 60mm fans that are both wired up to pins on the motherboard.

Pictures for your viewing pleasure (and apologies for the dodgy iPhone picture quality):

I'll see if I can take some inside shots of the case later. The TF11 looks spacious on the outside, but the arrangement of components inside is suboptimal which is a shame, and the IR/OLED kits are a bit of a mess (because they're sold and assembled separately, and integrate with the case's power button and LED).

Anyway, in the photos you can see the tall Zalman Reserator 1V2 sitting utop of my sub-woofer, and the various water-cooling supplies in one of the drawers.

I've got the Primochill ICE non-conductive coolant (coloured red) - I'm using that instead of the Zalman non-corrosive coolant because I'm completely wary of using any water in this system (the Zalman coolant needs to be diluted with distilled water - the Primochill doesn't). Not only is this is my first HTPC and my first liquid-cooled computer, but the risk of any conductive liquid leaking is not just the destruction of the computer, but of a lot of expensive (in my eyes, at least) AV equipment.

I'd like to know what level of air-cooling I should apply to the case. There isn't much room for air to circulate inside the AV bench/cabinet, but I want to keep noise to a minimum. The PSU and GPU are both passively cooled which helps, but it also means I'm going to have to need to activate at least one of the 60mm fans to keep air moving. The HTPC case does not have any front intakes or vents, so if the fan was activated in a negative-pressure system it's just going to suck air in from the de-activated fan and the vents in the PCI slots, which I don't think will do a good-enough job at cooling the PSU and HDDs at the front. I'd like to maximise component lifespan here.

At the same time I wonder if I'm being too adventurous here - a HTPC is often left on for extended periods of time, such as when it's in DVR mode to record a TV programme (I use the BlackGold DVB-T2 tuner, which I strongly recommend) and I don't know how safe it is to leave it on alone in the house for up to a fortnight if we go away on holiday. At least with air cooling you don't have to worry about your computer exploding.

Any suggestions and tips, especially with the Reserator are appreciated.

(N.B.: I have the LGA 1155/56 adapter for the CPU water block, so don't worry about that).

Ta!

 

[w3bbo]

First things first, no liquid is non-conductive despite some manufacturers claims. IF that were the case we'd be building PC's in aquariums . Distilled, deionised, or whatever WILL conduct electricty. Some liquids are however more conductive than others depending on the ions and mineral count etc. Don't be fooled into thinking that if you spill water on your pc or it leaks it will be fine. There are cases where people have been lucky but more often than not a wet pc spells disaster if not immidiately, in the long term when water crystalises.

If however you do it right first time by doing your research, taking your time and applying EVERY consideration to your build then you should be ok. Watercooling can be as safe as aircooling when done correctly.

In answer to your question regarding airflow, i think what you are describing is positive pressure(intake) not negative (exhaust). The only way you can really tell which is best would be to view cpu or gpu temps. I wouldn't lose sleep over the PSU unless your system is putting excess strain on it. Personally I would have no issue in leaving my pc on for weeks unattended, even when watercooled as if it leaks it really doesn't matter if you get to it within an hour or a week, the chances are it will fry something. Yes it can cause a fire, the chances however are unlikely unless you get water in the psu.

Hope I havn't scared you off, just be carefukl, take your time and you should be fine.

 

[Cleeecooo]

I spilled plenty of that coolant you're using all over a running 6970. The card dried out after a few days and has worked perfectly ever since. It's nothing to worry about. The main thing that bothered me with the spill is that the coolant smells like utter crap! Also, the UV effect of that coolant was something that IMO didn't look very good. This may or may not bother you.

As w3bbo said (both your usernames are confusing! ) waercooling is safe as long as you don't skimp on components and if you leak test it correctly first time round. I am happy to leave my computer unattended with the liquid cooling installed because I trust my fittings and my leak testing

One last tip, we don't say this to be horrible - but make sure you do your own research and ask when you need help. There are some great guides on the interent

 

[NasherUK]

I used to use a Reserator. Make sure it's well ventilated as it has no fans to keep air moving over it. Tucking it away in a corner behind stuff might mean the heat has no where to go and it won't cool properly.