Going watercooled...

Parts have arrived

52860_10151939763216494_1017982084_o.jpg
 
Cheers dude, have to mod the case as i'm going to fit the rad vertically at the front so have to remove hdd cage and cut some of the 5.25 drive bay floor to fit. Front of the case is filtered so makes sense to utilise that for the intake.
 
Cheers dude, have to mod the case as i'm going to fit the rad vertically at the front so have to remove hdd cage and cut some of the 5.25 drive bay floor to fit. Front of the case is filtered so makes sense to utilise that for the intake.

Good luck with the build. I'd love to see some pics of the Scout when it's done. I modded (well more like hacked) my scout so I could fit my Lightning in it, but temps were crazy so I ended up buying a Switch 810.
 
Got a question, after playing Arma2 and BF3 for approx 30 mins temps on he 7970 never went above 55c, but running Furmark causes temps to shoot up to 70c within 15 secs (I aborted before seeing how high they'd go)

Is that normal?

CPU temps were at 60c after 1 hour Prime95
 
Last edited:
If that's with a single 240 it sounds about right, furmark is a heat magnet.

Another 120 should bring the temps down a bit if it's just a 240 in the loop.
 
If that's with a single 240 it sounds about right, furmark is a heat magnet.

Another 120 should bring the temps down a bit if it's just a 240 in the loop.

Thanks, didn't realise it was that much of a heat producer!

Do the rest of the temps seem normal for my loop, bearing in mind what's connected?
 
Yep sounds about spot on, you should average 15-25c cooler than the top end air coolers.

What clocks and volts are on the cpu? I was sitting in the low 60's with 5ghz at 1.42v with the 2600k I had with a large 1080 rad.
 
What clocks and volts are on the cpu? I was sitting in the low 60's with 5ghz at 1.42v with the 2600k I had with a large 1080 rad.

1.3v idle 1600mhz 1.4v load 4500mhz, about 10c cooler than my air cooler when it was on full and noisy :D Idle temps between 24c on the coldest core and 27c on the warmest.
 
Sounds about right, next time you have the loop drained stick another 120 radiator in and it should help the temps out some :)

Also keep in mind that gaming CPU temps will be around 10c cooler than synthetic stress tests, so you should be looking around 50c on the CPU while gaming.
 
Sounds about right, next time you have the loop drained stick another 120 radiator in and it should help the temps out some :)

Also keep in mind that gaming CPU temps will be around 10c cooler than synthetic stress tests, so you should be looking around 50c on the CPU while gaming.

I'm pretty happy with the temps tbh, and it's quiet which was the main reason for doing it - Very cramped case.

Am getting to about 45-46c in games so very happy. Had to change those fans I bought as although they gave great airflow they we're damn noisy, currently running 2x Coolermaster PWM fans off the cpu header and it does the trick.
 
Had a drama with the top cpu compression fitting leaking, seems I overtightened it :/

....but all done now again with Coolermaster Tim on the CPU block and a few degrees cooler than the HE grease supplied by Phobya.

Sorry for mobile phone picture, will get some done in the daylight tomorrow...

CM Storm Scout with watercooled 2600k @ 4.5ghz 58c after 1 hr Prime 95, 7970 with Alphacool block, 55c max during gaming, thick 240mm rad mounted vertically in the front, connections at the bottom, single bay res and Phobya pump mounted on the case floor with 3/4" od ~ 1/2" od XSPC clear tubing throughout. Mayhems rasberry purple pastel coolant.

 
Question to the wc pros.... when the system is running its all good, but when I shut it down the top cpu 45 degree compression fitting weeps a very small amount of coolant from where the o ring meets the block. I do think I'd overtightened it when I first installed it as loosening it reduced the leak. Would it be possible or feasable to wrap some ptfe tape around the thread to stop the leak or do I need a new o ring or fitting?
 
Found out the Phobya cpu bock had a micro crack and was drawing in air to the system - therefore impossible to bleed fully! Has taken about 3 days to work it out, have tried ptfe tape, double o rings etc but it was still happening. Picked up an EK Supremacy cpu block today, fitted, bled air in 1 go, top deck of the smily bus all round :D

230950_10151945494406494_870777152_n.jpg
 
Last edited:
That's a nice neat build in a scout. Neater than mine!! I modded mine by fitting a clear side panel with 200mm fan, 180 mm fan in the roof, took out the lower drive cage and replaced it with a smaller one, cut cable holes next to the 24 pin socket and made a cover to hide the psu cables. Actually, where are your psu cables? Can't see them in the piccy.
 
That's a nice neat build in a scout. Neater than mine!! I modded mine by fitting a clear side panel with 200mm fan, 180 mm fan in the roof, took out the lower drive cage and replaced it with a smaller one, cut cable holes next to the 24 pin socket and made a cover to hide the psu cables. Actually, where are your psu cables? Can't see them in the piccy.

Got any pics? My PSU cables come straight out of the PSU and through the little hole in the motherboard tray and then out the back, they're are some nestled over on the right out of shot but they're black braided.
 
Here you go:-

IMG_0970.jpg


Side fan is a 200mm CM megaflow. Sorry about the size it's supposed to be 400x400 but won't go smaller.


IMG_0971.jpg


IMG_0972.jpg


Roof fan is a 180mm Akasa. Had to drill extra perforations in the roof and elongate the slits in the plastic top cover.

Front fan is a non led Enermax Magma 140mm and rear is a Arctic Cooling F12. All are on a Vantec Nexus fan controller. My pumps, res and rads are in external boxes. Both rads are mounted in a box on the landing windowsill so i get the cooler outside air going through them.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom