GPU Waterblock Corrosion

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Hi,

I have an EK-FC580 GTX+ Plexi+EN (Nickel) waterblock that is showing signs of corrosion, there is a bronze colour in my WC loop and in my XSPC Dual D5 Bay Res as well as corrosion in the micro chambers of the GPU block.

I thought the 'EN' designation meant that these were built with the 'superior nickel plating and corrosion resistance'. Has anyone else experienced this issue since the newer nickel plating method?

I should also mention I have EK Motherboard blocks and a EP Supremaxy HF, these are all copper plated and whilst they show residue, it looks like it originated from the GPU block.

Can I just clean the block up and reuse it while I wait for Pascal or should I replace the block completely?
 
I would replace the block if you are sure it is the problem because it could cuase long term issues for your pump. Most of the other components probably won't be effected, but the pump could have issues. I'd flush and replace the coolant immediately.

What are you using for coolant?

What radiators do you have?
 
I had Mayhem's pastel but since draining the loop I'm looking at changing it, although I do like that coolant (might get the Mayhems UV)

I have:
1x XSPC EX480 120mm Radiator - Black
1x XSPC AX240 Dual Fan Radiator (Black)

I'm going to flush the rads with Blitz pro when it arrives in an hour or 2.

The rest of the loop has copper blocks, would you suggest I stick with pure copper blocks in future? It's hard to tell from the copper blocks whether they have any corrosion.

Also I've tried cleaning my res but it's still a bit gunked up. I tried just hot soapy water, and I heard someone use dishwasher tabs and steradent! So I broke up a Finish 3 in 1 tab and gave it a good clean, although it now looks shiny it didn't do anything for the corrosion...

20160215_113432.jpg


20160215_113547.jpg
 
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Copper or nickel it really doesn't matter, I doubt that is what is causing the corrosion.

If the blocks still look polished/shiny they are probably fine. Corrosion would cause their colour to go off and funky.

I'd flush it and change the coolant before you do anything drastic with the blocks. If it starts to do the same thing, start thinking about changing blocks out to determine what the culprit is.
 
Thanks.

Can I put the stained res (above) back into my loop if I can't get the stains out? Would it cause any issues? Or should I replace it?
 
Sorry, the image didn't load when I did in my first reply.

If the stain hasn't come off in any of the washes, it will probably not go back into the coolant so you will likely be fine. Even if it did start to go into the coolant, there isn't a lot there to cause much problems.

Just make sure the other components, blocks and tubing and such, is all flushed as well before you reuse them. This is why acrylic parts are fantastic.

That is really weird now I've seen it...
 
Thanks for the advice. Yeah it looks really weird to me too, deposits of something. I tried reaching in and scraping it off with a fingernail but it didn't come off, whatever it is it's really stuck on there.

This happened with a XSPC 750 I had before and another Nickel block on my 580 now that I think about it. The other blocks I added were brand new. I think it's the culprit. Tubing has a similar stain too.

I'm thinking whether I should just stick with a tube res. I'm tempted to put one in the loop just for aesthetics :)
....or dual loop!
 
Tube res' are nice, I never liked the disappearing tubing effect of bay res' :p

If you intend to upgrade to pascal replacing the GPU block probably isn't worth it since it won't carry over when you upgrade. Only do that if it is definitely the issue and that it is happening fast enough to be a serious problem.
 
I was going to just get a new GPU as I think my GPU is buggered anyway.

I'm thinking of getting a OCUK Techlabs 980ti now, overclock it and push it a bit. I'm running 1440p monitors so it's more than enough. Maybe think about Pascal when they release the 1080ti or whatever it'll be called or even just the next gen after that. Have to draw the line somewhere :)
 
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It is well worth it! The picture quality just from switching to IPS, especially after it has been calibrated! - Off topic, I know :)

On-topic - I'm going to try sticking some bleach in the Reservoir next, seeing if that does anything. Last resort would be something like a toilet duck...works for my toilet :D...concerned it'll eat away the seal around the pump or the acrylic glue though :/ but it'll be clean!
 
I went from IPS to TN and I cannot wait to go back, I find TN unbearable now!

That is a bold decision to make haha, it could very well start to eat at the seals assuming the res isn't one solid block of acrylic. Make sure you get any fittings with rubber o-rings away!
 
Last resort would be something like a toilet duck...works for my toilet :D...concerned it'll eat away the seal around the pump or the acrylic glue though :/ but it'll be clean!

Toilet cleaners contain hydrochloric acid to dissolve limescale. Some are more agressive than others. Although it might remove the staining/corrosion, I would think it would damage the copper plating and quite possibly the nickel too.

I don't know what effect bleach would have, but it could well damage the seals depending on the grade of rubber used.
 
Toilet cleaners contain hydrochloric acid to dissolve limescale. Some are more agressive than others. Although it might remove the staining/corrosion, I would think it would damage the copper plating and quite possibly the nickel too.

I don't know what effect bleach would have, but it could well damage the seals depending on the grade of rubber used.

They meant to clean the reservoir, not the block.
 
Oops, pre-lunch brain-fade! I had this weird idea that the OP was going to cycle toilet duck/bleach through his whole system...:eek:

If it's made out of a cast/machined lump of acrylic, then that will resist just about any acid. If it's an assembly with o-rings/glue/sealant, then bleach or toilet cleaner would attack those. I can't guarantee it wouldn't dis-colour/cloud the plastic though.

If the blitz kit cleans really well, how about using it on the res?
 
The blitz pro kit is mainly for cleaning the rads and balancing the PH levels before you fill the loop. It has some really strong acid, it will melt the rubber seals and possibly put a hole in the res if I did that!

I might try distilled white vinegar again, does anyone have any suggestions how much distilled white vinegar to use and how much to mix into water? I'm guessing you don't just fill it with vinegar lol.

Maybe I didn't use enough the last time I did it...
 
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