Graphics Welder

[Mysterae_]

Some shiny new Phanteks fittings, bending block and (more) tubing arrived from OCUK I could start to finalise the water cooling.

The bending station. I should have learned sooner not to put the silicone insert so damn far in to the tubing, just makes it more difficult to remove.

The kinky feed to the inlet of the GPU block. These Phanteks fitting are so much nicer than the push fittings I was using for the copper. Shiny!

Bang on target.

As a normal 90 degree rotary wouldn't be tall enough for either fitting I decided to couple a normal fitting with a 90 elbow fitting with a small bit of tubing between. This way I can control the height offset and add a little bit of colour to the chrome once the coolant is in.

Next, the tubing from the outlet of the CPU to the 90 degree elbow then to the GPU.

 

[Mysterae_]

I really prefer this routing of the tubing. There's symmetry in the CPU block's fittings and also in the tubing of the CPU and GPU elevations.

The outlet of the GPU block, resembling how the CPU block's outlet tubing.

GPU elevation.

CPU elevation.

The tubing between the 90 degree elbow and the GPU inlet could do with a bit of a tweak as it's not ideal. Then it's drill the holes for the quick disconnects and this side of water cooling will be done.

 

[AlSki]

This is going to be so nice once done!

There's symmetry in the CPU block's fittings and also in the tubing of the CPU and GPU elevations

Great attention to detail.

It was fun working with copper tubing again...... in the future if I can find better 10mm push fittings...

Now you are giving me ideas for the next build...

 

[Jay85]

Fantastic jobby mate! Bends look super clean too.

 

[Mysterae_]

This is going to be so nice once done!


Great attention to detail.

Now you are giving me ideas for the next build...

Thanks, and if you do decide to go copper tubing, chose your fittings wisely!

Fantastic jobby mate! Bends look super clean too.

Thanks, it was a bit of learning curve, no pun intended .

 

[BeeP]

Insanely clever, great job!

 

[VoG]

That is looking beautiful, hella impressed you shoe horned a 4090 into such a tight little case to start with!, can't wait to see the finished article & the difference it'll make to the temps.

 

[coupe69]

Looks awesome, I'd be too scared to leave that compression fitting hanging above the PSU though! I'd have to re-route it somehow.

 

[Mysterae_]

Looks awesome, I'd be too scared to leave that compression fitting hanging above the PSU though! I'd have to re-route it somehow.

I did think about that fitting in particular because if it leaks on to the PSU it would probably take everything out! However, that elbow has 4 vitron o-rings (2 per outlet) and it is such a tight fit that I'm happy that the risk of a leak is quite low. The odds of a pipe being knocked loose is low also due to the way they are routed and held in place.

I did consider changing it though as I may need to redo the tubing from the CPU outlet to gain a little height anyway - the tubing rests on the cables from the PSU and I don't like that. If only Phanteks did a 12mm coupling in the same styling then I could do the tubing run differently to mitigate the problem above.

I could have used a 45 degree coupling (or two) and make the connecting pipe a bit differently as shown below.

Note sure, but one part of it may still be over the PSU, definitely would be if I were to use two.

I'll probably stick with the 90 degree fitting that I have. The system will be thoroughly leak tested with air (pressure tester) and then run with coolant from the Utilitube at max speed before any power is applied to the PSU. I'm definitely not ignoring the possibility of that fitting (or any others) leaking.

 

[Jay85]

I did think about that fitting in particular because if it leaks on to the PSU it would probably take everything out! However, that elbow has 4 vitron o-rings (2 per outlet) and it is such a tight fit that I'm happy that the risk of a leak is quite low. The odds of a pipe being knocked loose is low also due to the way they are routed and held in place.

I did consider changing it though as I may need to redo the tubing from the CPU outlet to gain a little height anyway - the tubing rests on the cables from the PSU and I don't like that. If only Phanteks did a 12mm coupling in the same styling then I could do the tubing run differently to mitigate the problem above.

I could have used a 45 degree coupling (or two) and make the connecting pipe a bit differently as shown below.

Note sure, but one part of it may still be over the PSU, definitely would be if I were to use two.

I'll probably stick with the 90 degree fitting that I have. The system will be thoroughly leak tested with air (pressure tester) and then run with coolant from the Utilitube at max speed before any power is applied to the PSU. I'm definitely not ignoring the possibility of that fitting (or any others) leaking.

If you're using something like PMMA tubing, the chances of it coming out of the fitting is next to none plus with your skills and confidence i'm pretty sure you're not gonna have any accidents unless you threw it down a flight of stairs .

 

[Mysterae_]

If you're using something like PMMA tubing, the chances of it coming out of the fitting is next to none plus with your skills and confidence i'm pretty sure you're not gonna have any accidents unless you threw it down a flight of stairs .

Thanks, I currently have no plans to test it's bounce resistance . The tubing is PMMA (Corsair Hydro X series XT) and it's quite tight in the Phanteks fittings but as like coupe69 said, the ramifications of a leak did pass through my mind.

 

[Jay85]

Thanks, I currently have no plans to test it's bounce resistance . The tubing is PMMA (Corsair Hydro X series XT) and it's quite tight in the Phanteks fittings but as like coupe69 said, the ramifications of a leak did pass through my mind.

With the weight of the heatkiller block, it would probably go through your floor . I've used the black version of the Corsair Hydro X tubing, its really good and never had any issues with them popping off. I wouldn't worry at all, sometimes you just have to send it and have faith .

 

[Vipernet]

Very neat and tidy, I like!

 

[Mysterae_]

It was time to get the quick disconnect bulkhead fittings er, fitted and these needed 18mm holes drilled in the case, 19mm if I wanted a bit play in them.

Time for the big drill bits, starting small and working up. Reduced shank drill bits are great, the only way you'll get an 18mm drill bit in a 13mm chuck.

The hole required at the vented part of the case needed tackling differently, the drill would have just caught and minced the case. Some finer fettling required by way of some carbide bits for the trusted Dremel.

Case chassis stripped down off all parts, holes cut and chassis washed to get rid of any swarf that may be lurking. Thoroughly dried after.

Quick disconnect bulkhead fittings mounted in place.

The quick disconnects with the 12mm hardline fittings. I wonder how precise I got the holes, will the tubing line up okay?

 

[Mysterae_]

Before I start what will hopefully be final assembly, I need to look at my options for mounting the front screen.

I bought some 180 degree adaptors for the HDMI and USB port but the were a bit bulky and needed trimming down.

All the plastic moulding removed.

The screen is going to be held in place by utilising the magnets that are already present on the Evlov Shift XT. The top face panel has these two metal discs that stick to the two magnets (silver in the image below) that are in position on the top cover. The plan is to glue or screw the metal discs to the back of the LCD panel, the magnets are more than strong enough to hold it in place.

However, even after trimming down the HDMI and USB adaptors it's a bit tight and I think it'll look crap.

I'd much prefer to keep the original grill fins untouched like below (without the masking tape holding on the screen protector ).

Time to open the display up to see what my options are.

Is all that's inside it?! This opens up a lot more mounting options.

I could move the LCD control board down and cut new slots in the back of the case.

There's plenty of space at the back to run cables, may not need 180 adaptors and just run 90 degree ended cables.

The business side of the LCD control board.

There's quite a few options like not using the case for the LCD at all but I think it frames it well with the case and makes it easier to mount. I could put the LCD control board on the outside of the case, remove the speakers as they aren't required. Going to have a little think about it .

 

[Threepwood]

TLDR: was there a question in all that?
and, is there any aluminium in the loop along with the copper?

 

[Mysterae_]

TLDR: was there a question in all that?
and, is there any aluminium in the loop along with the copper?

TLDR?! Maybe there was but you'll never know unless you read it....

There is no aluminium in the loop, the MoRa has a copper core.

 

[Mysterae_]

Some more progress.

Stripped the LCD screen to mark up for the steel discs for the magnets to attach to and the holes for the HDMI and USB ports. I've rotated the screen 180 so it's buttons are at the top and the holes for the afore mentioned ports are unseen at the bottom.

Discs fitted and holes for the ports crudely cut out. The image shows the 180 degree adaptors but I've changed this to 90 degree adaptors.

I extended the power button PCB at the front of the case out a few millimetres so that the LCD screen just touches it. To power on the computer you simply press the screen at the bottom as the magnets allow it to pivot a little.

Test fit, perfect. I must have gouged the edge of the LCD's case with my Dremel or hot glue gun - right at the top of it too!

Finally time for some assembly. I relocated the control board and buttons for the D-RGB of the Evolv Shift XT as the LED strips need to be a bit closer to where I want them. The buttons are redundant any way as the motherboard's D-RGB (MSI Mystic Light) overrides it.

Talking of D-RGB, had to cobble together and modify the wiring for them as there was a bit of a mismatch between products. The MSI MPG Z790I Edge allows up to 240 addressable LEDs and I'm no where near this limit yet, not sure if I'll be fitting any more in the future.

I'll skip all the refitting of parts and cable management....

You'll notice I've turned the PSU around. This is so it takes air from inside the case, more on this later.

All the tubing lined up nicely with the quick disconnects.

Some short custom cables for the 4090 would have been nice, but alas.

 

[Mysterae_]

I'm waiting on some screws so that I can mount the two fans you see here.

The top plate that the fans mount on to.

This is the problem, the fans need to be higher so the 4090's power cable isn't damaged but also to move them closer to the top of the case.

I couldn't resist posting a few images of it assembled....but not quite finished.

 

[fantasticCG]

This is awesome work dude! I love the attention to detail