Ground Grid, Dynogrid etc etc - anyone used this?

Cheers, good advice there, which seems to make sense to my poor brain.

I know you've said 6 x 1 but would the wickes timber I linked to be ok for the framing as it's approx 6 x 2 and would give me a nice thick sturdy edging to the beds which I think I would prefer to 1 inch wide edging?
 
Hmmm good point, I'll have a word with the timber merchants and see if they can do me 6 x 2 in longer lengths, 5.1m would be great as the sides are about 5m x 4m...ish

Just spoken to my local timber yard, they have 6 x 2 in 5.4m lengths ( ithink that's right) and 2 x 2 in 4.8m lengths.

Looking at 5 x 5m (I have a couple of additional jobs I want some for, this will give me plenty) and 3 x 4.8m of the 2x2 delivered is just over £98, not too bad I don't think.

Will also need some somre of fixings to fix the pegs to the frame, probably screws I think as I hate nailing and am terrible at it!!! ;)
 
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Yeah, that's the sort of thing I was thinking of using (the deck screws). I'm guessing the corners of the framing should really be screwed together, though I'm not quite sure how I'd manage that as the area I've dug is pretty much the exact size I need for the framing...

Guess I could put the framing together and then put it into place...
 
That's a good plan!

I was thinking of putting 2 maybe three pegs on each of the sides and attaching them first so each side was just (yeah right...just) a case of putting them into position and then hammering them down? would it be better to put the pegs in first and get them to the level I need then attaching the framing?
 
Well, just ordered up the wood, which will be delivered tomorrow...hopefully first thing, then we can get cracking and get as much done as possible while my parents look after the little man!!! :)
 
I've just been thinking, I'm at a bit of a loss as to how I keep things level as my driveway has a slight slope and I need really to follow the slope of the drive with the grid and hence the sub base layer.

If I was trying to get it flat I'd obviously just use a spirit level but how do I do it to maintain the same slope as the drive has?
 
I see, I think that makes sense. Though not 100% clear on how to match the existing slope of the drive.

Seeing as my driveway slopes down towards the far edge of the garden that I have dugout, the drive would be the high point and the far edge the low point.

So I could use a straight piece of wood across from the drive to a peg at the far edge, with the spirit level on it (longest spirit level I have is 1m, gap is about 5m). Then use a spacer on the peg to raise the wood until the spirit level is 'level'

But then I'm not quite sure how I ensure the peg is in far enough.If it's not far enough I just won't need such a large spacer and if it's in too far I'll be using a spacer thats bigger...

I'm probably making this much harder than it needs to be but I can't quite get my brain around it...
 
On Friday I had the day off to crack on with this project and get it ready to finally move forward to completion having stalled over the last month or more due to nice weather, a holiday and various evenets etc that have severely limited the time we've had to work on it.

My parents were having the little boy for the day and as soon as he was gone I set up my tools on the driveway ready to get to work. After a bit of brain work to think about the best way to tackle things we began by cutting some 2x2 in to lengths to use as pegs to hold the framing we were putting in place which will contain the subbase and hold the grid in place.

Workshop:
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With a couple of pegs in place we set about cutting the 6x2 timber for the side making sure it was long enough and cutting one end at the right angle to match the curved driveway. My sliding mitre saw from Lidl turned out to be a brilliant purchase, cutting the board even at the angle was so simple.

Once cut we marked where the top of the grid would come to up the board. We then offered the board up to the edge and found we needed to dig out a little more. Once we were happy the board was at the right height and level we screwed it to the pegs using decking screws.

Side one in place:
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We then moved on to the second board, measured where it needed to come to in order to fit the gridding nicely and hammer in two pegs. Again, cutting the board was a nice simple job. And once again we needed to dig out a bit more to get the board at the right level but soon it was in place.

Side two in place:
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The third side was a little more tricky as the ground was so hard but we persevered and finally got it in place. With the three sides of framing in place the front garden was finally looking like we were actually doing something with it rather than just being a partially dug out mess as it has been for the past few weeks!!

All we had to do then was ensure it was dug out enough to give room for the aggregate base and the grid. Living in an area with very clayey (sp?) soil this is always a chore as the ground bakes so hard you can barely get the tip of a spade into it, so I set about it with the spade end of a pickaxe I've borrowed from our neighbours. That and some damping got the surface broken up nicely and with my girlfriend raking it into piles and me shovelling we finally got it to the fdepth we wanted all over!! Here it is ready for the next stage - 2 tonnes of aggregate to be added and compacted!

Side 3 in place - finished and ready for the aggregate!!
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When starting the project, never having done anything like this, I hadn't really realised just how much earth would need to be dug out....had I known I would have hired a digger and done it all in one go but as they say, you live and learn!!! We currently have huge amounts of earth sitting around the front of the house as you can see in the pics below...and this doesn't include about 40 sacks (the small ones in the second pic) or both turf and earth that we've already taken to the tip!!!

Earth moving:
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As mentioned earlier in the thread I have decided to use this soil to fill the grid once it's down as it will only be grass growing in it so it doesn't need perfect and lovely top soil. The rest I was going to get rid of but I have decided I will use it level up areas of the lawn come the autumn as once again that won't need brilliant soil and it would be daft to spend out on something I've already had but gotten rid of!!



The next step before the aggregate arrives is to sort out the drain cover so it matches the level of the grid once it's finished. I've decided to get a new recessed cover, these are designed for putting block paving etc into so they can be matched to the area and be discreet. I will cut some grid to fit and add a couple of small drain holes then it can be filled and grassed to match the rest of the grided area.

My only concern in this is that some of the drain covers are quite deep and I might not have the depth needed to get it level with the grid without removing the toplayer of brick around the drain opening. This however would then leave the level too low and I'm not quite sure how I could then bring the level up to where I need it...
 
Cheers, was hard work on Friday, the front garden gets blazing sun from about 11.00 on wards so we were roasting all day!!

Thanks for your very helpful knowledge and advice, it's really given me the confidence to get on do this project! :)

Sadly I don't have a grinder. I could probably borrow one but have never used one so wouldn't be very confident about cutting bricks down...

Are there any other options for raising the level a bit?

Someone else mentioned laying a piece of geotextile fabric in the manhole cover if drilling holes, why would this be, is it to act as a sort of filter to stop dirt washing down the holes or something?
 
Yes, over time you will find holes will clog, or if holes are big, then you will gradually loose the finer particle of soil first, then the larger bits as it breaks down.

Makes sense really.

Grinders are ok if you keep you feet out of the way & wear correct footwear, seen many accidents over the years, where peeps have put the grinder through their foot, lost toes, or the grinder jumps back & they take a piece out of their leg.:D.

And that is why I'm not confident of using a grinder...lol

You could take a course of bricks off, then make up some shuttering to fit inside & outside the manhole, then pour a concrete riser to the height you need.
Would put a screws few fixings like your decking screws in the brickwork so concrete has something to adhere too.

Hmmm, maybe that would be the way to go, though would be a lot of work... This evening I shall try chipping away the existing mortar and see what space I have to work with, it might be that I can get away without having to resort to such measures...fingers firmly crossed!
 
Having made a start at chipping away the mortar holding the drain cover in place I'm pretty sure I am going to have to remove the top layer of bricks to get enough height to put in a recessed drain cover. Which means a bit more digging again just when I thought I had finished with digging.

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To fill the space, as suggested, I shall lay a layer of half bricks. I was wondereing how I might cut them seeing as I don't have and have never used a grinder...

Then yesterday evening whilst chatting to my neighbour, he said he had a grinder in his van and would cut some bricks for me if I had some. As luck would have it we had found some bricks in the back garden buried amongst the moss and overgrown grass when we moved in.

I took the bricks to the front garden and my neighbour turned up with this gigantic petrol engined Makita grinder which looked like some kind of weapon from Gears of War. A few minutes later I had a pile of half bricks ready for me to use.

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Also, my freshly dug front garden is now a lovely shade of salmon pink.

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As were my shoes...which I wear to work...

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The next stage is to do some measuring to ensure I know what depth I have to play with, then I can order up the drain cover and begin removing the bricks.
 
As the parking is going to get occasional use at most (literally maybe on a friday evening if we've got people round) it should be ok to use those bricks shouldn't it?

Yeah recessed manhole covers are fairly pricy, though can be got online for about £40 depending on the size needed...
 
Having sorted some bricks it was time to remove the top course of bricks, add a course of half bricks and then set a nice new recessed drain cover in place.

I didn't get pics along the way as it was a hot day and being my first attempt at brick work and construction type stuff I wanted to concentrate! Anyway, here is the frame in place.

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Yes there is a a bit of mortar and rubbish in the drain in this pic but as soon as the mortar had gone off we got down there and cleared it out.

Didn't take a pic of the cover in place as it was in the car ready to go to my parents house so we could attempt to drill some drain holes in it as I didn't have any drill bits suitable for the steel.

We got the holes drilled and the cover is now in place.

I also have made a start cutting grid to fit into the cover so we can fill this too and it'll match up with the rest of the parking area once it's finished.


I have also just ordered the aggregate and have a day off on friday so will be hiring a whacking plate to compact it... something else I have never used before.

Seems like it should be fairly simple though tiring work?

Any tips for the compacting? I think I'm right in saying I'll need to wet the aggregate before I start to compact it?
 
Cheers, we're really pleased with the work we've done on the drain as neither of us has done anything like that before and when we first thought we might need to work on it we thought it'd be really tricky but actually it just required some research and patience and some concentration.

Hoping to get it, if not completely finished, as near as possible to finished as we can on Friday as it's been taking much too long as we struggle to get anything done while the little boy is about.

Being a soft office worker, I've discovered a lot of muscles I didn't know about before!! ;)

Are ear defenders expensive, might be a good idea to have a pair of my own as I've got a lot of work to do on the house and a lot of it will involve noisy power tools???
 
Yetserday we had the aggregate delivered so a bit more work was done.

First the drain with the cover in place:

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Terram cut and place:
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Then began the work of getting the aggregate onto the are and spread out. I was quite surprised how much harder it is to shovel than dirt and mud is as the shovel just kept hitting big stones and stopping. But with a lot of hard work it's getting there.

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This evening, weather permitting, I will carry on shovelling and then levelling out the aggregate ready for tomorrow when I have a whacking plate on hire...

I'm gonna get myself some ear defenders from Screwfix on the way home this evening and I have some steel toe cap boots of my Dad's so I should be all set to do it tomorrow...

I really can't wait to get this finished and be able to get on with other projects in the house!!
 
Finally got a chance to do an update on this.

Last Friday, I had a day off work and my parents took the little boy for the day so we could get on with the front garden and hopefully get it finished.

Firstly we went and picked up the whacker plate from the tool hire place, then we finished off spreading the aggregate we had had delivered earlier in the week we spread it as best we could aiming for about a 75mm layer to compact down to 50mm. However it seemed like we had nowhere near enough despite having been advised by the company we got the aggregate from. I called them up and explained the situation. It turned out that although I had said we wanted a 50mm compacted final layer they had only worked it out at a 50mm uncompacted layer...

I explained that I had taken the day off work specially and needed to get on. They said they could have the extra tonne with me within an hour and half so we sat down and started watching Iron Man 3. Eventually 2 1/2 hours later they turned up and tipped the extra out onto the garden and we could get on again.

Once it was spread out we began the task of compacting it. First we sprayed it with water then we got started with the whacker...

The beginning stage of the compacting:
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Almost done:
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Sadly as we were trying to get as much done as possible I completely forgot to take a pic of the finished compacted layer!!!

The next stage was another layer of terram to hopefully provied as much stabilisation of the ground as possible. We then put a thin layer of top soil over the whole area.

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We then made a start on getting the grid down. It went down fairly easily though as it had been used previously some of the interlocking tabs were a bit damaged so we had to spend a good bit of time trimming them. Luckily my Bosch multitool made pretty light work of the cutting work. We decided to get as many of the whole pieces of grid in place as possible and then spend time cutting the awkward curves etc later.

As luck would have it my parents offered to keep the little man over night rather then me picking him up at 6pm as planned, which meant we had an extra couple of hours of working time before we lost the light.

We got all the whole sections down and started filling the grid with some soil to make it more difficult for anyone to steal overnight.

This is how it looked when we finally called it a day:

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We had a busy next couple of days then on MOnday our next door neighbours offered to take the little man with them while they went round some garden centres so we could crack on. Naturally we took them up on the offer and got to work.

We set about cutting grids to fit into the cruved edge area of the drive and the end section where due to being slightly out of square we also needed to cut down some of the sections. Again my multitool made fairly light work of it and we got all the pieces cut and in place.

The worst part was cutting the grid to go into the recessed drain cover is it needed not only cutting to size but also needed the depth cut down all over and then it needed the pressed pattern of the base cut out too. It took a fair old time but soon was finished and we set the cover in place.

We then filled in the whole area using the best of the soil we had dug out. It is not the best soil as it is quite clayey but as it is only grass we will be growing in it, it should be ok and will help to give the grid lots of strength.

The final step was to give the soil a good soaking and sow the grass seed. Once this was done the area was complete!

The finished area:

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The borders have been treated with roundup (well Wilkos own version) to kill off all the rubbish grass and weeds and other plants in them and once it's all dead we'll feed the soil and dig them over ready for planting and making them pretty.


Eventually we will have a fence put up along the front and down the side of the driveway to make it nice and neat and tidy but we can't afford that at the moment sadly.

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