Grundfos UPS3 - control mode?

[NiCkNaMe]

Hi all,

I've recently moved house and have a heating system with a conventional boiler and set of rads (11), a cylinder for hot water, with Hive installed.

I was controlling the Hive system manually until recently as I did not have a hub to replace the previous owners (apparently not transferable). As part of getting the new hub online I had to cycle the power.

At a similar time to the above, I've been having a garage extension and one of the rads at the far end of the house has been disconnected.

I now seem to have an issue where the rads are not fully heating up. I've re balanced them to the best of my ability and bled them, but can't seem to get a situation where all of the rads are a good heat (as they were previous to this work).

Additionally it seems the boiler is cycling regularly (i.e powers on and then goes off).. the pipes coming out of the boiler are hot so assume it's doing its job correctly.

I'm wondering whether as part of the Hive hub swap, the pump setting has changed which is causing the issue?

The pump defaults to constant curve III but from my (limited reading) this is for systems with minimal heat loss and suitable for underfloor heating? Should I switch the pump to proportional pressure or constant pressure for my use case?

Any help would be appreciated as I was supposed to be getting this sorted by the plumber who was doing the garage extension but that work is on hold indefinitely whilst coronavirus is going on!

Cheers

 

[NiCkNaMe]

Scrap that, tried proportional pressure and the pump just seems to stop and rads go cold. Will have to have another go at balancing them.

 

[FlyingFish]

In simple terms stick it on speed 3.

If the system has been worked on and extended into the extension, then your first call should be to the plumber who did the work.

Things to try yourself would include, running the heating on it's own, without the hot water. Turning all but 1 radiator off in turn to clear air airlocks, do this for all radiators, making sure each one gets hot.
Balancing radiators means each lock shield valve only needs opening enough to keep the rad warm without taking flow from others that need it more. There should also be a balancing valve (gate) on the hot water circs. Ideally your boiler should not be cycling, and should give a continuous burn until the rads have got to temp.

Have fun

 

[NiCkNaMe]

Cheers, left it on constant curve 3 which seems to be default anyway.

Agreed... Plumber not engaged yet, was due to start shortly.. the garage team just removed a radiator, not done anything else yet. Given the lockdown obviously work on hold.

Tried re balancing yesterday. No matter what I do (tried one on only, but some don't heat up at all) can't seem to get all rads hot. Wondering if there is a blockage of some sorts. The boiler also seems to come on and cut off after 30 secs, as though it's hitting temp straight away. The outlet pipes coming from.the boiler into the pump are red hot.

I have BG cover, but they've not done first survey yet as only just moved in. Was hoping plumber would resolve it all, but might see if I can get an emergency appointment booked given lockdown may go on and on.

 

[FlyingFish]

Definitely sounds like a problem with a component or installation/alteration. Unless you really have a clogged up system.
Either way, it should get fixed between your plumber and BG. Good luck m8