Hardwired Home Network

SpellowHouse said:
I didn't read the other posts.

Having done several re-wires of my house, I now use pre-made cables and ducts instead of making/terminating my own. The main reason is that I kept on changing the layout because I kept on adding/subtracting and moving devices.

Note that the fritzbox may use LAN1 for FTTP so you have used all your LAN ports. You might want to place the switch closer to the Fritzbox so you have a spare port in the back of the fritzbox for a printer or something else in future.
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Sounds more like poor planning or a bad approach to me :D There should be no reason to want to rip out Cat6 because you're moving devices about?

You just do a few runs to each room (or even just one if you're being tight, but I'd always do more) for where you'll ever need to wire devices into and be done with it... Why on earth would you ever need to change the 'layout' of your cables?
 
BUDFORCE said:
Hi,

Sorry slightly old thread revival but it was the middle of winter and wanted to wait for the weather to get better before doing this, as part of it is being outside on ladders etc

So, crimping the connectors onto the cables, you need a crimping tool, fine, I can figure that bit no problem.

But the face plates, as you mentioned you need a "punch down" tool, could you link such a thing and are they compatible with most face plates etc? I am also aware you can get face plates that have a female to female connector (eg plug in the back) so just wondering for the sake of only doing a few of these, would it just be worth getting these?
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I agree with earlier posts and it could make sense to put a patch panel in with the switch where #5 is, but depends where the modem/router and switch is all being located? If it's all together it might not make sense to put a patch panel in and just have a switch. Entirely your choice a patch panel can often help neaten thinhgs up. Then you do the following runs into Cat6 wall plates to connect any devices into (apart from the CCTV obviously).

I don't see any problems with linking these as OcUK don't sell them AFAIK (if I'm wrong mods let me know and I'll remove links). If you want a nice little kit, something like this would be ideal - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Network-Preciva-Ethernet-Computer-Maintenance/dp/B08DTVQS4K/

Then grab the easy RJ45 connectors, makes terminating much easier - https://www.amazon.co.uk/VCE-50-Pac...g-50u-50-Pack-End-Pass-Through/dp/B07MM3FQ3F/

Cable wise, if you're doing any runs outdoors then I'd definitely get external rated Cat6 cable. If the runs are being done internally through walls joists etc then internal cable will be fine for that. Always get proper copper (not CCA) type cable. Kenable are a reputable retailer, also sell the faceplates cheaper than the rainforest place.

Indoors - https://www.kenable.co.uk/en/networ...work-cable-reel-50m-008537-5055383485376.html
Outdoors - https://www.kenable.co.uk/en/networ...-reel-utp-50m-black-008536-5055383485369.html
Faceplates - https://www.kenable.co.uk/en/251-network-face-plates-modules
 
Sparx said:
Sounds more like poor planning or a bad approach to me :D There should be no reason to want to rip out Cat6 because you're moving devices about?

You just do a few runs to each room (or even just one if you're being tight, but I'd always do more) for where you'll ever need to wire devices into and be done with it... Why on earth would you ever need to change the 'layout' of your cables?
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Layout of rooms changed. Rooms that didn't have networked devices now do. Network devices got moved for various reasons. Over 12 years the network has evolved out of all recognition. I don't rip anything out, but certainly much of the original cabling is now unused. I guess the thing is that unless you are going to put a network socket by every mains socket in your house there is always a possibility that you may end up wishing you had. Planning is fine as long as you don't intend to reorganise your house!
 
Sparx said:
I agree with earlier posts and it could make sense to put a patch panel in with the switch where #5 is, but depends where the modem/router and switch is all being located? If it's all together it might not make sense to put a patch panel in and just have a switch. Entirely your choice a patch panel can often help neaten thinhgs up. Then you do the following runs into Cat6 wall plates to connect any devices into (apart from the CCTV obviously).

I don't see any problems with linking these as OcUK don't sell them AFAIK (if I'm wrong mods let me know and I'll remove links). If you want a nice little kit, something like this would be ideal - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Network-Preciva-Ethernet-Computer-Maintenance/dp/B08DTVQS4K/

Then grab the easy RJ45 connectors, makes terminating much easier - https://www.amazon.co.uk/VCE-50-Pac...g-50u-50-Pack-End-Pass-Through/dp/B07MM3FQ3F/

Cable wise, if you're doing any runs outdoors then I'd definitely get external rated Cat6 cable. If the runs are being done internally through walls joists etc then internal cable will be fine for that. Always get proper copper (not CCA) type cable. Kenable are a reputable retailer, also sell the faceplates cheaper than the rainforest place.

Indoors - https://www.kenable.co.uk/en/networ...work-cable-reel-50m-008537-5055383485376.html
Outdoors - https://www.kenable.co.uk/en/networ...-reel-utp-50m-black-008536-5055383485369.html
Faceplates - https://www.kenable.co.uk/en/251-network-face-plates-modules
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Really useful post thank you.

The network switch is going in the loft, so wont need face plates for that, the cables will run up into the loft and I'll just terminate those with an RJ45 connector and plug straight into the switch. It doesnt matter if it looks a bit rubbish, plus actually being in the loft there literally isnt anything to sit a face plate into anyway. Ill probably just mount the switch on the gable end up there, tac the cables to the wall to make it look neat. Nothing is going to get moved around once its up there.

My main office room already has a small hole in the ceiling into the loft where I have run the CCTV cables up and out, and in my office room is my main PC, work laptop (and the CCTV) I will literally just run the 3 cables down into the room. There is already a cable running round this office room anyway, and its a tiny room, so literally wont bother with a faceplate as it doesnt need to be neat. The existing hole is also probably big enough so I can just run pre-made patch cables through, infact almost certainly will.

The next one will come down where a coax TV aerial cable comes through into a built in wardrobe into one of the bedrooms, which will then go through the plasterboard wall into one of the kids bedrooms on the opposite side, that will probably get terminated with a faceplate.

The main cable up from the router, the bottom end will likely have a faceplate, that is the only part I am not sure about because to get the FTTP install done, they will need to install a physical cable from the street into the house, and I have no idea where the engineer will terminate that, I am guessing it'll be right next to the existing phone line. But ill sort that bit.

So likely only actually need a couple of face plates, and maybe only one hole drilled through the external wall next to the router where the cable will run out and up the side of the house into the loft.

But yea, reckon I have got this figured out now, in my head at least.
 
BUDFORCE said:
The main cable up from the router, the bottom end will likely have a faceplate, that is the only part I am not sure about because to get the FTTP install done, they will need to install a physical cable from the street into the house, and I have no idea where the engineer will terminate that, I am guessing it'll be right next to the existing phone line. But ill sort that bit.
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The Openreach engineer will install the fibre cable and ONT wherever you like within reason, it doesn't need to be near your existing phone line as it's completely separate and nothing to do with your old connection. You could effectively rip out your old copper line if you wanted, once the fibre was up and running - it'll be redundant.

Plenty of posts from previous customers who have had it ran to the opposite end of their house, upstairs, study bedroom etc... Usually not a problem, just have the kettle on and some biscuits ready for the guy!

That aside, well if you have a plan in your head that works for you then go for it mate. Hopefully some of the advice helped at least ;) Lol
 
Others may have better experience on this but I saw the max ambient operating temperature of some of those passively cooled switches is 40-50 degC, now I know the loft space isn't exactly death valley but I guess some people's loft can get pretty hot, I know mine does in the summer for sure. No idea if that's a problem but wanted to prompt the question for others who may know.
 
alex24 said:
Others may have better experience on this but I saw the max ambient operating temperature of some of those passively cooled switches is 40-50 degC, now I know the loft space isn't exactly death valley but I guess some people's loft can get pretty hot, I know mine does in the summer for sure. No idea if that's a problem but wanted to prompt the question for others who may know.
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This comes up time and again. If your loft hits 50C ambient then you wouldn’t be able to be up there at all. But your switches will still be running. We have well over 100 installs of Ubiquiti and Mikrotik equipment in cabinets in loft spaces and it’s fine. The people who make me scream are the ones putting 1kW of gear into a cupboard under the stairs because somehow they think it’s safer to put something hot into a tiny room than a big one that’s directly vented to the outside.
 
I can't say I've seen any post's showing a picture of a temp reading of their loft space at 40-50c. The only way you'd heat your loft up is if you've insulated between rafters in which case its a bad idea shoving a lot of gear up there as there is no airflow.

I did wonder about putting my gear below the suspended timber floor on the ground floor but.. the hatch isn't big enough gor the gear to go through and well accessibility.

Tbh best option is a garage or shed i think. Run some network and power cabling.
 
I’ve seen many places that people have installed networking gear and if your shed or garage is dry and dust free then why not. In the winter my own garage gets really cold and damp - especially if it’s been snowing and I’ve dragged a load of snow in on the car under the wheel arches that then melts in the floor. So it wouldn’t be for me, but there really aren’t any not-spots for installing networking gear. If you’d put a hifi there, you can generally put networking gear there.
 
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alex24 said:
Others may have better experience on this but I saw the max ambient operating temperature of some of those passively cooled switches is 40-50 degC, now I know the loft space isn't exactly death valley but I guess some people's loft can get pretty hot, I know mine does in the summer for sure. No idea if that's a problem but wanted to prompt the question for others who may know.
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This bad boy ran solid for 10+ years. As long as you are buying 'pro-sumer' kit, it'll survive easily.

LZZ1yCj.jpeg


This loft was sometimes unbearable hot, and I was always convinced it would grenade but it never did.
 
alex24 said:
Others may have better experience on this but I saw the max ambient operating temperature of some of those passively cooled switches is 40-50 degC, now I know the loft space isn't exactly death valley but I guess some people's loft can get pretty hot, I know mine does in the summer for sure. No idea if that's a problem but wanted to prompt the question for others who may know.
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It pretty much is death valley. I mean I have seen mine get up to 48 degrees regularly in the summer.
 
SpellowHouse said:
It pretty much is death valley. I mean I have seen mine get up to 48 degrees regularly in the summer.
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Death Valley hits high 50’s, so not really, and even at 48C you’ll be within the 50C spec. of most electronic equipment.
 
BUDFORCE said:
Ordered all the bits I'll think I need.

Went Cat6 in the end as it really wasn't much more expensive than cat5e.
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You go keystone? It's been a few years since I did physical networking for work and it was just punchdown on both ends. Interested in making it as easy as possible for myself but struggling to decipher the bits needed myself...
 
redstar1 said:
You go keystone? It's been a few years since I did physical networking for work and it was just punchdown on both ends. Interested in making it as easy as possible for myself but struggling to decipher the bits needed myself...
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RJ45 Face Plate Wall Sockets Cat6 Single 1 Port with Keystones Jacks

So yes I guess so, looking at it you just punch down at the back, there is a little colour code on the back.

I'm no expert I've never done it before.

 
It can be annoying, it’s nice that it stops the cable getting kinked though. I usually find you can pull the spine out the end of the cable after stripping the jacket which stretches it a bit, snip it off, and then it sort of springs back past the cut end of the jacket and doesn’t cause any problems when terminating it.
 
I'm not having any issues so far.

Started doing this, in bits, no real rush as the FTTP isn't going in until Thursday but I've done a face plate and RJ45 termination, and checked with a cable tester and fine.

I ended up getting one of those kits £20 from Amazon with all the bits in, the crimping tool was a bit meh, but to be fair worked, the punch down tool was pretty good.

I'm really hoping you have some flexibility with where they install the main fibre socket/modem inlet when openreach come, from what I've read they normally try to accommodate and the place I could ideally have it is right at the front corner of the house downstairs, so easy place to get to.
 
They prefer a shorter run for the fibre, with the least possible chance of it getting damaged. I believe there's a small fee you can pay now for a more complex installation.
 
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