Has anyone made their own car ramps from wood?

Did a lot of reading on this lately as my driveway also slopes slightly. From my reading, concrete blocks is a big no-no. Lots of people had them collapse decades ago and I think it became well known not to risk it.

I'm considering the metal ramp option largely for weight/storage convenience I think. My driveway is 7.2 metres long with about 30cm fall towards the house. My calculations make that 24:1 or 2.4 degrees. @danlightbulb What's the slope on your drive?

It would be 2x8 c24 construction timber.
Recommendation I've seen is to use hardwood so construction timber is out. In the states apparently metalworks dunnage for stacking steel is a good source, don't know if that's common here.
 
now his 4 foot axel stands do look like they 'd be stable on my paving too - google image can't find the brand.
(I guess he didn't force the seized wheel when it was on stand even then - wacked mine with a 4x2 from other side inside rim, lump hammer with piece of wood...heta .... )

I took advantage of the good weather and time off to swap my discs and pads today. Luckily it was fairly straight forward and only took me just over two hours which I didn't think was too bad for a first try. The hardest part was getting my drivers side wheel off as it was bound solid, although a kind passer by saw me struggling and together with a bit of brute force we managed it. At least I know now that the pads are a doddle to change on these calipers.
NsK3GFBh.jpg
 
now his 4 foot axel stands do look like they 'd be stable on my paving too - google image can't find the brand.
(I guess he didn't force the seized wheel when it was on stand even then - wacked mine with a 4x2 from other side inside rim, lump hammer with piece of wood...heta .... )
That brand is SGS. They have a locking pin and a ratchet system.

Everyone on here recommends them but after buying some I found they have a little too much play for my liking, theyr decent enough though and I only have non-ratchet Halfords ones to compare to interns of movement, they are solid.
 
Some discussion here on the forces involved on a slope
just the action of jacking one side of rear whilst other side of axel is already on an axel stand is pretty dangerous in my experience, putting sideways force on the stand that's already there,
on rare occasion I do it I'd re-lift the other side, to check no lateral force.
I was going to do trailing arm bush, but that would have needed both sides jacked, to relieve anti-roll bar, which I thought was too risky.
 
That brand is SGS. They have a locking pin and a ratchet system.

Everyone on here recommends them but after buying some I found they have a little too much play for my liking, theyr decent enough though and I only have non-ratchet Halfords ones to compare to interns of movement, they are solid.

Yep, that's the ones. I've got nothing to compare them too, but once loaded they felt rock solid. I did do as you said above as well though and used both axel stands, left the jack in place with the handle off and put the wheel under as well. It was probably complete overkill as I wasn't even getting underneath the car, but better to be safe than sorry. I am lucky in that for the most part, my drive is pretty level and flat which definitely helps.
 
I prefer decent jack and axel stands.

Ramps can be tricky to get on and also they're in the way if you're working near the wheel. Not to mention storage space etc.

In my experience, as a DIYer working on your own I feel there is more control with a jack and stand, you're not relying on driving up and stopping on a peice or metal/wood/whatever. You can vary the height etc.

I use mobile ramps for quick floor jobs where I don't need the wheels off. Also, just quicker to drive the car onto the ramps and then put the axle stands underneath.
 
They look fine, but the design must be ancient. Width: 135mm to 185mm! What car has 135mm tyres nowadays?

I inherited a set from my father that look identical and must be at least 50 years old. Even getting a small car up them involved such careful positioning due to them being so narrow that I stopped using them.

If building my own set from wood I'd consider making them really wide, so they can just be plonked down and driven up with minimum messing about.
 
They look fine, but the design must be ancient. Width: 135mm to 185mm! What car has 135mm tyres nowadays?

I inherited a set from my father that look identical and must be at least 50 years old. Even getting a small car up them involved such careful positioning due to them being so narrow that I stopped using them.

If building my own set from wood I'd consider making them really wide, so they can just be plonked down and driven up with minimum messing about.

Yeah I reckon 185mm is going to be tight. Plus with the metal I never liked the idea of the tyre digging into thin metal slats. The older ramps had a solid deck.
 
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Use wooden ramps all the time to get access underneath a car - would I would *under* the car? No, not without some other bracing but they're great if you just need easier access to reach under, or get another jack under if they're too low.

As above, if working properly under, don't take any risks. Multiple jacks plus spare wheels or whatever you need. Or just pay someone ;)

Unncessary, but necessary Alfa wood picture.

Alfa_Ramp.md.jpg
 
... todays no risk society egh. repairing cars used to be much more common with the associated skills to do it - there are more dangerous activities in life

just read what I thought might be a reputable how to guide
doesn't address issue/risk of jack being pushed sideways as you then lift on opposite side, to put that on stand too.
 
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