Heat Pumps: anyone have one/thought about it?

@b0rn2sk8 - I know you’ve mentioned it before but what’s your average energy use in kWh looking like for your heat pump (if you can separate it out from other usage)? And how big is your house? :p

I’m looking at a new build with ASHP so trying to get a ballpark figure for usage, considering batteries, etc.

Anyone else with one feel free to chime in too.
 
@b0rn2sk8 - I know you’ve mentioned it before but what’s your average energy use in kWh looking like for your heat pump (if you can separate it out from other usage)? And how big is your house? :p

I’m looking at a new build with ASHP so trying to get a ballpark figure for usage, considering batteries, etc.

Anyone else with one feel free to chime in too.

[Essay inbound - you have been warned!]

I can but it comes with some caveats - I’ve only had proper energy monitoring in place since 6th October 2024 and I’ve had the heat pump for a year.

Fortunately the heating didn’t go on until 10th October so I’ve got a pretty good idea of total usage as hot water is both tiny and predictable. Hot water is 2-3kWh per day so gross that up to fill the gap between May and October.

I don’t run my heat pump for maximum efficiency, I optimise for lowest cost. That means I am running it at high/full power for 3+ hours per day when I only pay 7p/kwh. This uses more energy but cuts down on peak time energy use. My COP isn’t great but that’s what happens when you are running it at maximum output for long periods of time.

House: 4 bed detached, 142sqm, built 2002, 250mm loft insulation but otherwise as built. That includes the awful double glazing the builders put in which is ‘not great’. 2 occupants only.

My heat loss was measured at about 5.5kw and I’ve got a Daikin 6kw R32 heat pump. My design temperature is 50C @ -2.3C. My real world flow temperature is set to 45C @ -8C which is ~41C at -2.

I’d guess my ‘real’ heat loss is sub 5kw and my total radiator capacity is slightly above where it needs to be to get 5.5kw out at 50C. The way I run it and these two things enable me to drop the flow temps down from the design temperature.

As above hot water is 2-3kWh a day, all off peak so 14p-21p per day.

The house is heated all day every day and I only do a short evening set back from 9pm to 12am (-1C) and it’s back on again heating to target temperature, this effectively turns it off at 9pm until midnight.

I have a ‘set forward’ temperature from 2am to 5.30am where the heat pump runs at full power to build heat energy in the house (unreachable target temperature). This enables me to ‘coast’ through the day at a slightly lower flow temperature that would otherwise be required.

Total energy use is as follows:
Oct: 144 - partial month 160-170 is a more realistic estimate.
Nov: 339
Dec: 388
Jan: 589
Feb: 477
Mar: 332

These will of course vary based on temperature. In Jan my lowest day was 12.6, the highest was 31. Even on the worse day, most of this consumption is off peak.

I’ve got 10kwp solar which is east/west and a 13.5kwh battery. The solar doesn’t perform well in winter due to its orientation and generation was **** last winter due to cloud cover.
Dec: 83
Jan: 121

You don’t need to go mad on battery storage IMO, it will never pay back when paying retail for it.

My bill for 6th Jan to 5th Feb broke down as:
923.7 off peak
108.9 on peak

180-300kwh is typical EV usage for us, Jan would have been at the lower end of this.

So yes we used some peak time energy, but not enough to warrant spending any more money on batteries. My average import cost was under 10p/kwh so also below the threshold for swapping to a heat pump tariff.

If I ran the heat pump in a ‘normal way’ it would use less energy (probably a lot less) but we would use a material amount more peak time electricity after our batteries run out and would cost more.

You should also consider Octpus Cosy or the Eon equivalent heat pump tariff before more batteries. On these you get 3 (or 2 on Eon) cheap periods at 12p spread through the day. This tariff dramatically drops the potential saving from adding more batteries when trying to benefit from the gap between off peak at 7p and peak at 29p on an EV tariff. You’d use it for 2-3 months of the year and then go back to an EV tariff for the rest of the year.
 
[Essay inbound - you have been warned!]

I can but it comes with some caveats - I’ve only had proper energy monitoring in place since 6th October 2024 and I’ve had the heat pump for a year.

Fortunately the heating didn’t go on until 10th October so I’ve got a pretty good idea of total usage as hot water is both tiny and predictable. Hot water is 2-3kWh per day so gross that up to fill the gap between May and October.

I don’t run my heat pump for maximum efficiency, I optimise for lowest cost. That means I am running it at high/full power for 3+ hours per day when I only pay 7p/kwh. This uses more energy but cuts down on peak time energy use. My COP isn’t great but that’s what happens when you are running it at maximum output for long periods of time.

House: 4 bed detached, 142sqm, built 2002, 250mm loft insulation but otherwise as built. That includes the awful double glazing the builders put in which is ‘not great’. 2 occupants only.

My heat loss was measured at about 5.5kw and I’ve got a Daikin 6kw R32 heat pump. My design temperature is 50C @ -2.3C. My real world flow temperature is set to 45C @ -8C which is ~41C at -2.

I’d guess my ‘real’ heat loss is sub 5kw and my total radiator capacity is slightly above where it needs to be to get 5.5kw out at 50C. The way I run it and these two things enable me to drop the flow temps down from the design temperature.

As above hot water is 2-3kWh a day, all off peak so 14p-21p per day.

The house is heated all day every day and I only do a short evening set back from 9pm to 12am (-1C) and it’s back on again heating to target temperature, this effectively turns it off at 9pm until midnight.

I have a ‘set forward’ temperature from 2am to 5.30am where the heat pump runs at full power to build heat energy in the house (unreachable target temperature). This enables me to ‘coast’ through the day at a slightly lower flow temperature that would otherwise be required.

Total energy use is as follows:
Oct: 144 - partial month 160-170 is a more realistic estimate.
Nov: 339
Dec: 388
Jan: 589
Feb: 477
Mar: 332

These will of course vary based on temperature. In Jan my lowest day was 12.6, the highest was 31. Even on the worse day, most of this consumption is off peak.

I’ve got 10kwp solar which is east/west and a 13.5kwh battery. The solar doesn’t perform well in winter due to its orientation and generation was **** last winter due to cloud cover.
Dec: 83
Jan: 121

You don’t need to go mad on battery storage IMO, it will never pay back when paying retail for it.

My bill for 6th Jan to 5th Feb broke down as:
923.7 off peak
108.9 on peak

180-300kwh is typical EV usage for us, Jan would have been at the lower end of this.

So yes we used some peak time energy, but not enough to warrant spending any more money on batteries. My average import cost was under 10p/kwh so also below the threshold for swapping to a heat pump tariff.

If I ran the heat pump in a ‘normal way’ it would use less energy (probably a lot less) but we would use a material amount more peak time electricity after our batteries run out and would cost more.

You should also consider Octpus Cosy or the Eon equivalent heat pump tariff before more batteries. On these you get 3 (or 2 on Eon) cheap periods at 12p spread through the day. This tariff dramatically drops the potential saving from adding more batteries when trying to benefit from the gap between off peak at 7p and peak at 29p on an EV tariff. You’d use it for 2-3 months of the year and then go back to an EV tariff for the rest of the year.
Your figures are remarkably like mine. We're a 145 sq m 4 bed detached with 5.39kW heat loss, 9.42kW of PV (SE-NW) and 14.7kWh of batteries. We're also getting a 6kW Daikin and design temperature is 50C at -3C. We will have 6.49kW of radiator capacity at 50C though.

It'll be interesting if I end up with similar results. Our house is a 2018 build, so I think the heat loss figure of 5.39kW is a little too high as our windows/insulation etc are excellent.

We run our combi at 55C flow temp which with our current radiators is exactly the same 6.49kW capacity as at 50C with the upgraded Octopus ones. This makes me think we'll be able to tweak it and run the heat pump at a much lower flow temp most of the time.

Just a week to go.
 
Thanks @b0rn2sk8. The essay is great, I like getting into the detail and numbers. The place I'm looking at is a 2-bed, detached bungalow but a lot smaller than your place so I'd guess the heat loss will be a little less to start with, although yours isn't bad at all.

Where you've got the months listed, that's just the heat pump use I'm assuming? What happened in January, just down to the outdoor temperatures?

How do you know your average unit cost, is it itemised on your bill how much is off peak and how much is on peak (I'm not on a smart or multi-rate tariff at the moment so don't know)?

With your battery could you charge it overnight and shift some of the heat pump load to that, therefore avoiding the heating up and 'coasting' that you're doing now?

I definitely wouldn't go too far on batteries but was thinking 24kWh-ish to cover a full day use and sell back any excess.
 
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Thanks @b0rn2sk8. The essay is great, I like getting into the detail and numbers. The place I'm looking at is a 2-bed, detached bungalow but a lot smaller than your place so I'd guess the heat loss will be a little less to start with, although yours isn't bad at all.

Where you've got the months listed, that's just the heat pump use I'm assuming?
Yes, just the heat pump, I have a Shelly EM monitoring its consumption.

What happened in January, just down to the outdoor temperatures?
Yes, exactly this, lower outside temperature = more energy needed to keep the house at target.
How do you know your average unit cost, is it itemised on your bill how much is off peak and how much is on peak (I'm not on a smart or multi-rate tariff at the moment so don't know)?
Yes, Octopus break it down to every 30 mins on your bill if you really want to get into a day by day detail.

For example, the worst day in January I referenced the heat pump consuming 31kwh in total I consumed 38.15kwh from the grid. Of which 28.10kwh were was off peak, 10.05kwh was peak, the battery ran out just after 5pm, I can tell from when I started using peak time electricity.

On that day I also generated 6.9kwh of solar so my total energy consumption was around 45kwh (no car charging on this day). The benefit of cold winters days is that they also tend to be clear so there is more solar generation than the warmer but cloudy days.

With your battery could you charge it overnight and shift some of the heat pump load to that, therefore avoiding the heating up and 'coasting' that you're doing now?
I charge the battery to 100% every day regardless of whether it is summer or winter. On my EV tariff it is 7p overnight, I can export in the day for 15p.

What I meant by coasting was utilising the thermal mass off my house and everything in it to lower the energy need during the day. I'm using my heat pump to put in way more heat than is needed overnight, most of this is getting absorbed into the fabric of the building and everything in it and the actual air temperature isn't overshooting my day time target by much, perhaps 0.5C on most days. This 'stores' a surprising amount of energy overnight ready for 'use' later in the day.

Then the output of my heat pump is set ever so slightly below what is needed to maintain that during the day and the extra energy which is stored in the fabric of the building is released back into the air and by the end of the day I'm either at target or at most 0.5C below. The cheap period starts at 11:30pm and the process starts over again.

You don't notice the temperature change as 1C over the course of an entire day is nothing and the radiators are always warm so you get some of that direct radiant heat all the time.

On a gas system,, if your radiators are turning on and off all day like a yoyo, that's why you 'feel' cold during the times where your radiators are not up to temperature, and the air temperature is probably varying by 2C based on the over/undershoot of the thermostat.

I definitely wouldn't go too far on batteries but was thinking 24kWh-ish to cover a full day use and sell back any excess.
To be honest, this sounds quite high and you hit diminishing returns very quickly on batteries once you have 'enough' which is typically up to 80% of daily use without heating and a bit more with heating. Typical household use without heating is 10kwh a day and I am about bang on with this. As mentioned above, I've 'only' got 13.5kwh in total.

Don't forget when you are on an EV tariff or similar, you get 5/6/7 hours of cheap electric so you don't need battery storage to cover thus use and you run your heavy appliances (dish washer, washing machine etc) in that cheap period also so you also don't need to cover that. You start hitting diminishing returns from as little as 60% of daily use without heating. The more panels you have, the letter batteries you need.

Using batteries to cover heating loads is tricky because they will only be protecting you from peak rate electricity for a relatively small part of the year (Nov-Feb, solar can fully cover Sep-Oct and late Feb-Apr). If you are paying retail rates for batteries, the charge up at 7p and selling back at 15/16p doesn't really pay back, at best you are looking at just covering your cost of buying it in the first place over 10 years. A 10kwh battery will set you back £3000 plus installation, that is a lot of 7p's to make up (15p less 7p less AC > DC > AC conversion losses).

In my view, you'd be better off paying slightly more for your off peak energy on something like Octopus Cosy but you benefit from getting to charge a smaller battery 3 times a day for those colder ~3-4 months of the year. I didn't switch to cosy over winter, my average import cost when using some peak rate was still below the off peak rate of cosy.
 
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In my view, you'd be better off paying slightly more for your off peak energy on something like Octopus Cosy but you benefit from getting to charge a smaller battery 3 times a day for those colder ~3-4 months of the year. I didn't switch to cosy over winter, my average import cost when using some peak rate was still below the off peak rate of cosy.
That may well be true. It would probably be best to do a years usage just to figure out how much energy would actually get used before deciding what to buy.

Doing some calculations on a peak estimated usage (which is probably over the top vs. likely actual) IOG at all cheap rate would save £122/month versus my current 'loyal Octopus' tariff but only £57/month versus a somewhat optimistic Cosy tariff scenario (basically no peak usage, mostly in the cosy rate, minimal day rate). Plus that level of differential would only be for 6 months out of the year.

Some definite food for thought there.
 
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My heat punp has been working fine but theres a pipe that comes from the cylinder in the loft and drops down the gable end to the ground. Thats dumped large amount of water a couple of times now.

The installers are coming back out to have a look but does anyone have any idea what could be causing that ?
 
Pressure relief valve on the cylinder will be kaput or or the expansion vessel is kaput.

Alternatively your water pressure may have spiked and the valve was working as intended but that’s probably unlikely.
 
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My heat punp has been working fine but theres a pipe that comes from the cylinder in the loft and drops down the gable end to the ground. Thats dumped large amount of water a couple of times now.

The installers are coming back out to have a look but does anyone have any idea what could be causing that ?
If the pipe terminates at the ground to a cage or soakaway that may be the overpressure release pipe. May simply have to much pressure in the system but as above a few things for them to check.
 
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Literally having my 4KW Daikin fitted now. Had up to 6 engineers plus vans at my house. Being a 2 bed mid-terrace with low 3.2KW heat loss not expecting too much energy use. I also upgraded two rads myself above the 50C target so I have more scope to play with flow temps.

Octopus don't mess about. Get in rip the old stuff out. Get the large items installed and then less engineers can finish the job off.
Y8XP1aN.jpg

Amazing pipework going in the loft!
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/SPOILER]
 
Blimey thats a lot of vans
I bet your kettle is crying for a break from all them cuppas ;)
More coffee than tea but seems to be the norm now.

After all the new pipework and 5 radiator swaps. Plus pressurising 30 year old pipes to 2 bar amazing result to have zero issues overnight. Only thing that got wet was me when I opened the bathroom basin tap and water shot everywhere. I think there was some air stuck at the end!
 
Personally, I wouldn’t entertain a high temperature install.

Propane or not, efficiency drops off the higher you go and you’ll pay for it in the long term unless you swap all the radiators yourself and drop the flow temps right down.

Propane isn’t any more efficient than R32 in the normal ‘low temperature’ range. The main benefit of propane is that it can go higher but as above, performance and efficiency continues to drop off.

I’m pretty sure the output of most domestic heat pumps also drops off as they get hotter. If you are approaching the maximum output of the heat pumps, you may find yourself with a larger unit which would ordinarily be considered oversized which is also bad. For example if you have a heat loss of 6kw, the unit may have an output of 6.5kw at 45C but at 65C it may only be 5.5kw so you’ll need a bigger unit to cope with the heat load.

Propane reacts much more strongly to return temperatures than it does to flow temperatures, and it's almost always more stable than R32 and is very happy at a high delta T, unlike synthetic refrigerants.

https://www.thermonova.com/ these are big boys, but their COP actually increases as you approach a 70 C flow. However, as you approach a 45 C return, the COP drops off by about 7.5%.
 
I knew you’d come in with something big and commercial to contradict my post :p

The above is definitely in the context of a stand alone domestic install using with the usual dT 5-8 over the flow and return.
 
So anyone worried about noise my 4KW Daikin unit was running at full tilt yesterday during the setup process and all I could hear was the large fan on the front. Nothing from the compressor or heat pump. Just some air movement out the front of the unit.

I have upped my temps by 1 DegC as the unit hadn't run since yesterday and my house was stubbornly staying 0.5C above the thermostat trigger. Now it's running I can now say the loudest part of the system is the volumiser as water is running through it. Sounds like the old cold water storage tank filling but at a lower frequency. So not a bad result. I might enquire if it can be filled more to lower the churn.

Also I was warned that the rads wouldn't feel warm as they run just above ambient when the heating is on, it's very hard to tell if the system is running most of the time. During the test mode I pointed a heat gun at the rads and I think the highest temp I saw was 32C. They stay cool only rising when the HP is running (obviously) and then settle back down to ambient very quickly. Not like the old setup with the rads practically glowing with heat! So much for drying my cycling clothes over the large rad in the kitchen!
 
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Our installation with Octopus has started this morning and it's actually quite a calm affair so far. Three guys: one doing the electric, one removing the boiler and another fitting the heat pump outside. They're going to wall mount the Daikin and run a pipe to the drain near to it, so no base needed which is a plus.
 
Hope it goes well, I've got Vaillant and SGS coming out this afternoon, hopefully they can sort mine out between them.
 
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I've just got a quote for a heat pump installation. It's coming in at a shade under 19k (that's after the 7.5k grant was deducted).

It's a lot higher than some of the quotes in this thread, BUT it involves a decent chunk of work as we're essentially gutting the house, so everything will be new. It includes:
  • 7kW Valliant aroTherm pump+ uniStor cylinder.
  • Heat loss survey/design.
  • Parts + installation (including electrics, sign off, etc).
  • 8 new radiators, all requiring new pipework back to the heat pump.
  • 90 sqm of wet underfloor heating (mix of low profile kit and pipes in screed).

I've not had quotes for getting the rads and UFH done separately, but as a rough ballpark I'd assume that would be somewhere around the 4k mark, and 9k mark respectively, leaving ~6k for the heat pump and related gubbins. Thoughts?
 
Hard to say given the scope of work is more in line with a total replacement of your heating system than a normal retrofit.

The risk of getting the rads and UFH done by someone else is that they don’t really understand heat pumps and install something optimise for gas.
 
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