Help for a newbie!

ilc72

ilc72

ilc72

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19 Mar 2014
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513
I am looking for advice on the best way to setup my first ever custom loop. I have a Corsair H100i V2 Extreme AIO currently.

Case: Corsair Obsidian 500D (non-RGB)
Motherboard: ASUS ROG STRIX X470-F
CPU: Ryzen 2700X
GPU: Inno3D GTX1080ti X3
PSU: Corsair RM650i

After taking a look at the EKWB configurator I have decided to go with a Motherboard Block, GPU Block, and a Pump/Res Combo all of which I picked up in the recent sale. I went for a GPU block as I’d like to use the vertical GPU mount and the GPU would be starved of cooling as it would be too close to the tempered glass side panel.

My basket at Overclockers UK:
Total: £404.87 (includes shipping: £9.90)​
​

I am planning to start with a loop based on flexible tubing and compression fittings. I plan on going with a dual radiator setup with a 240mm at the top and a 360mm at the front, using the following radiators and backplate:

My basket at Overclockers UK:
Total: £163.47 (includes shipping: £10.50)​
​

I’m doing this as a learning experience and not as an adventure in massive overclocking. I am looking at EK Nickel 10/13mm Compression fittings with 3m of 9.5mm/12.7mm Duraclear tubing. I am relatively happy with ordering the usual other bits such as PWM splitters etc..

Question #1

Is it madness to use my existing Corsair LL120 fans despite their relatively low Static Pressure? I have six already with a single Commander Pro and 6-way RGB hub. I also have a spare RGB hub and two Lighting Node Pro’s.

Question #2

Secondly in what order should I run the loop? After researching and watching too much JayZTwoCents, his advice seems to suggest says the order shouldn’t matter but I know there is a lot of knowledge on these forums so have come here!

Based on this what combination of fittings will I need? Should I purchase a mixture of normal fittings and 90 degree fittings, or just the standard ones and leave the bends in the tubes?

Also where is the best place to put a drain port, should I use a T-Splitter or a quick disconnect?

Any advice is greatly appreciated!
 
Loop order doesn't matter, due to the massive energy/heat holding properties of water, it will be fine in any order.

Try to avoid 90's degree turns if poss as it lowers water speed BUT most hard line tube set ups use lots so it cant be that bad.

A drain port at a low section of the system works well, remember you will have to usually open the res top also to allow air to be pulled in. A T section works fine for me.

Generally Quick disconnects lower Water speed, but again, it depend on how utterly OCD you are about these things.

The Rads you are looking at are generally considered low FPI (Fins per inch) as such fan selection isnt as important, test and see how you get on to keep costs down.

Hope that helps !
 
VKleita said:
Loop order doesn't matter, due to the massive energy/heat holding properties of water, it will be fine in any order.

Try to avoid 90's degree turns if poss as it lowers water speed BUT most hard line tube set ups use lots so it cant be that bad.

A drain port at a low section of the system works well, remember you will have to usually open the res top also to allow air to be pulled in. A T section works fine for me.

Generally Quick disconnects lower Water speed, but again, it depend on how utterly OCD you are about these things.

The Rads you are looking at are generally considered low FPI (Fins per inch) as such fan selection isnt as important, test and see how you get on to keep costs down.

Hope that helps !
Click to expand...

Thanks for the response, I saw the quick disconnects on a YouTube video and liked their convenience, however since I don’t plan on using any exotic cooling fluids after seeing the effort it took to clean an entire loop (see Paul’s Hardware Artic Panther rebuild video), I will go with the T-section as you suggested.

One question you may be able to help with is about rinsing the radiators before use, I have terrible water here and am worried that it’ll introduce more problems than it solves. By using EK radiators do you think I’ll be OK or should I invest in a couple of 5L water bottles to get the job done?
 
Looks good so far!

I would say, before buying fittings plan your loop out. If you don't mind dismantling your rig then do some dry runs with the parts to work out clearance, angle of approach for tubing etc. I'd do this on paper first, then with the parts, then do a fresh diagram and write what type of fitting will work on each join. I think I then made educated guesses/conservative decisions for my loop - ordered 11 straight and 3 90° fittings for an 11-join loop. Ended up using all 3 90s and wishing I had another. Consider 45° ones as well.

Also check as early as possible that your top rad will clear your RAM, if you haven't already got a rad there. Mine wouldn't have fit (bequiet! Pure Base 600).

Edit: always always flush radiators. I used dilute vinegar and heated it up too, then flushed with distilled until it ran clear and crud-free. Really needs doing, think about the worst-case scenario if you didn't. I only used a couple of litres for the whole process with a 360 and a 120mm.
 
LuckyBenski said:
Looks good so far!

I would say, before buying fittings plan your loop out. If you don't mind dismantling your rig then do some dry runs with the parts to work out clearance, angle of approach for tubing etc. I'd do this on paper first, then with the parts, then do a fresh diagram and write what type of fitting will work on each join. I think I then made educated guesses/conservative decisions for my loop - ordered 11 straight and 3 90° fittings for an 11-join loop. Ended up using all 3 90s and wishing I had another. Consider 45° ones as well.

Also check as early as possible that your top rad will clear your RAM, if you haven't already got a rad there. Mine wouldn't have fit (bequiet! Pure Base 600).

Edit: always always flush radiators. I used dilute vinegar and heated it up too, then flushed with distilled until it ran clear and crud-free. Really needs doing, think about the worst-case scenario if you didn't. I only used a couple of litres for the whole process with a 360 and a 120mm.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tips, after some thought I plan on using a new case as I think the Corsair 500D is a great case, but the issues you raised about clearance could limit future flexibility as using an AIO with 25mm fans only gives about 20mm of clearance to the memory. I was waiting for the new Phanteks Evolv X due at the end of August according to the OCUK team, but today saw the new InWin 915 case has been released. That said, whilst the InWin 915 is a thing of beauty with its motorised top cooling, looking at the price of their other cases I don’t think it will be anywhere near the quoted $199 Evolv X which received universal acclaim at Computex.

If I went with the Evolv X then it supports at least 2 x 360mm radiators again giving more future proofing along with fact it has pre-installed fill and drain ports. I then thought I could do a new B450 build in the Corsair 500D for my son to entice him in to the PC Master Race as he’s way to into XBox for my liking.

My plan is to get the case, a new PSU, a B450, and hopefully a 1st Gen Ryzen on sale. Take the existing X470 motherboard out and install into the new case with the new PSU and start from there. As long as I have a working system I can take my time and so not rush and end up buying things I won’t need, as I have done with this build.

This is the first PC build project since building my first PC in 1992, so I am now taking it slowly and learning along the way. The trouble is once you get the bug there is always something to improve or try out.
 
Yes please please please make sure you clean out the rads, no matter who makes them they will come with crude/metal in them and it really wont help anything and can even damage your pump.

I personally buy a 5 litre deionised water from my local hardware store for use when flushing, its not TOO expensive and its a damn sight better than my terriblle tap water also :)
 
Dilute vinegar is a good bet to decrud the radiators and you'd be fine using tap water to rinse it all out, but you will definitely need deionised water for the last flush or two.

If you want to be extra fastidious, you could look at a Mayhems Blitz kit. part 1 is designed specifically for new radiators and killing all the rubbish inside.
 
Did you fit a custom loop in this case ?
Thinking of putting a loop into the 500D RGB case.

If so any chance of some tips on which parts you actually used, fittings, pump etc etc. How big were the rads, thickness too.

Then how about some pics please..

cheers
 
Just to put a spanner in the works.

I would only use distilled water, not dionised. From my understanding it’s purer, and doesn’t re-ionise in the loop, using the metals present. It’s what I would use for flushing, and to dilute concentrate. Vinegar and distilled in the rads is good, given a really good shake. As is Blitz.

I would put the radiators last in a flushing loop, and use a pump to drive water through them from one container to another.

As for tubing, if you’re going flexy 16/10 resists kinks well and looks nice. Though it’s less flexible. It won’t really effect performance so just go sigh what you like the look of more. Can’t comment on hardline, I don’t like it.

Not everyone agrees (probably people more skilled than me!), but I think a drain port at the bottom, a res near the top, and easy filling are important.

Be prepared to sweat when you start costing up fittings, they can get expensive. But as with most watercooling stuff you only need to buy it once, and the rest you can sell on the MM.
 
Last edited:
WantoN said:
Just to put a spanner in the works.

I would only use distilled water, not dionised. From my understanding it’s purer, and doesn’t re-ionise in the loop, using the metals present. It’s what I would use for flushing, and to dilute concentrate. Vinegar and distilled in the rads is good, given a really good shake. As is Blitz.

I would put the radiators last in a flushing loop, and use a pump to drive water through them from one container to another.

As for tubing, if you’re going flexy 16/10 resists kinks well and looks nice. Though it’s less flexible. It won’t really effect performance so just go sigh what you like the look of more. Can’t comment on hardline, I don’t like it.

Not everyone agrees (probably people more skilled than me!), but I think a drain port at the bottom, a res near the top, and easy filling are important.

Be prepared to sweat when you start costing up fittings, they can get expensive. But as with most watercooling stuff you only need to buy it once, and the rest you can sell on the MM.
Click to expand...
Agree with the comments about DI water. When I flush components like radiators, I often run them an hour or so with distilled. I set up a big bowl and have the return tube near the bottom of the bowl. Hang the intake tube over the edge of the bowl near the top, on the opposite side. This way any debris should settle on the bottom of the bowl and not get sucked up/recirculated. Alternate this with straight up rinsing/flushing through and discarding fluid. Good for removing any traces of acidic/vinegar water.
 
LuckyBenski said:
Agree with the comments about DI water. When I flush components like radiators, I often run them an hour or so with distilled. I set up a big bowl and have the return tube near the bottom of the bowl. Hang the intake tube over the edge of the bowl near the top, on the opposite side. This way any debris should settle on the bottom of the bowl and not get sucked up/recirculated. Alternate this with straight up rinsing/flushing through and discarding fluid. Good for removing any traces of acidic/vinegar water.
Click to expand...

Hmmm, that’s probably a lot less wasteful than my method. I don’t tend to circulate when cleaning unless I’m using Blitz.
 
Also, personally I don’t think the EK SE radiators are very good; there are far better performing rads at 30mm.

Imo if you want slim, get Nemesis GTS. Check out their push only reviews, they’re excellent.
 
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