Help me upgrade my W/C setup

MilanoChris said:
Well what can I google to find a link then? Surely that's allowed.
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Swiftech smartcoils

Or my preferred

Primocoils - This is my current dual loop set-up :

dualloopcloseupsd0.jpg



Mark
 
Using google to find PrimoChill Anti-Kink Coils.. I wonder ;)

Hope that helps matey :)



gah.... teleposted, damn you Mark :p
 
Cheers guys. Ben I'm only using my hotmail addy mate so if you sent it to the other I won't get it.

What size do I need? All I know is that my barbs are 1/2" lol!
 
Hi,

I got your e-mail Chris. You need the 5/8ths outer diameter size for 7/16ths tubing. Good to see the old girl again too. You could do two things to make a decent improvement I reckon;

1. Put in a PA120.1 where the rear intake fan is. Put it in after the CPU but before the graphics. That will drop your GTX temperatures.
2. Swap out the Alphacool top on the DDC for one of the new EK ones with Ant-Cyclone plate. You have plenty of height availabel so you could put in a really big reservoir - 140 or 200mm maybe? That will increase the volume of your system and let you turn the pump back up to 12V which will give a nice drop in overall temperature.
 
Thanks mate. The GTX temps aren't worrying me but the CPU temps are holding me off a nice clock. I'm a bit reluctant about replacing the rear fan as the chipset etc still needs airflow.

I'll order an EK top, the 140mm version, some extra tubing just in case and also some of them coil things now and see how I'll get on.

Edit:

About to order the following, will this all work? Anything better I could get?

TYGON R3603 7/16" ID 5/8" OD Laboratory Tubing
PrimoChill Anti-Kink Coils - 5/8" OD Tubing - UV Brite Green
EK-DDC X-RES 140 - Barb Size 1/2"

Thanks for the help!
 
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MilanoChris said:
I had to 7V mod the pump becaue the water was going round too fast. I reckon a bigger res is the answer.
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Why?

The amount of water in the system is irrelevant once it has achieved equilibrium. Secondly, why is flow rate your problem? It make next to no difference as the water spends the same amount of "time" in each part of the system, irrespective of the flow-rate. when you set the pump to 7v did the temps improve? And if they did, why do you think that was caused by flowrate decrease? Try gogoling for "Cathar" and "race-track analogy"

Cathar said:
I'll pull out ye olde racetrack analogy.

If I'm a molecule of water, circulating around a water-cooling loop, I'm just going around and around and around. It's just like being a race-car on a race-track at a fixed speed. The time I take to travel through the radiator is like the time spent travelling down the main straight of the race-track.

If the race-track is 5 miles long, of which the main-straight (radiator) is 1 mile long, in the space of 1 hour, how much time per hour do I spend on the main-straight if I'm travelling at a fixed speed of 60mph, 120mph, or 180mph?

The answer is that the speed doesn't matter of course. I spent 1/5th of my time on the main straight. 'cos the straight is 1 mile long out of 5. Even if I travel at twice the speed around the circuit, it'll take me half the time to get from the start to the end of the main straight, but because I'm going twice as fast everywhere else, I'll be on the main-straight twice as often. i.e. No matter how fast I travel, I'll be on the main-straight for 12 minutes out of every hour.

Now common physics tells us that the rate of heat-exchange is proportional to the temperature difference between an object, and something else that's cooler than the object. If I'm a molecule of water, and air is cooling me (by way of the air cooling the metal tubes inside the radiator that I'm flowing through), then the longer I spend in the radiator, the cooler I will get (that's good), BUT, the cooler and closer I get to the air-temperature, the less quickly I'll lose heat (that's bad). The two cancel each other out. So why does higher flow results in better performance?

The more quickly I rush around, the more likely I'm going to be tumbled about (think white-water rapids as opposed to a smooth slowly flowing river). This means that I'm going to get tossed against the cool metal walls of the radiator more often, rather than just cruising along down the middle of the tube, only passing heat slowly to water molecules beside me that are only a little cooler than I, because they are beside another molecule, and then beside another molecule, before we get to the cold metal wall. i.e. water sucks for transferring heat if it's not getting mixed about and thrown against the cold walls.

Hope that explains it in a "simple" manner that is intuitive, obvious, and directly counters the "slower flow is better" argument.
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I'm sure WJA96 will explain better, but the water was coming down from the rad too fast. The pump was making a horrible noise and I did run it for a while to see if it improved. But nothing. 7V modding it made the water flow far more stable and it wasn't "slushing" in and out of the res anymore.
 
Sounds like you were getting cavitation in the pump then. That's why I don't like having anything between the res and the pump. The best way to keep a pump from cavitating is to have a still body of water as close to the pump as possible. The best of all is to have the pump in the res but that seems to have fallen out of favour for some reason.
 
So you reckon with what I have listed in a couple of posts above I should be able to sort the problem, ie with the EK140 top for the pump?
 
We want before and after temperatures with no change except the res. Don't touch the blocks or shorten the tubing etc. One change, and one change only! let's see if it makes a noticeable difference.
 
OK mate. I will reboot with my 3.6GHz clock and run prime for 30 mins then take temps. I'll do the same when the parts arrive.

I'll be putting the coils on though.
 
MilanoChris said:
OK mate. I will reboot with my 3.6GHz clock and run prime for 30 mins then take temps. I'll do the same when the parts arrive.

I'll be putting the coils on though.
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But the coils might then be the change that affects the temps! Do the res first and measure. Then add the coils and measure. It's all good data.
 
I need to be credited here! Thats my green machine! :)

tbh there is absolutely nothing wrong with the list of kit at the top and to "feel" its being restricted sounds like one of my lame excuses for a pointless upgrade! ;)

remove any kinks and maybe get an EK multioption res because you WANT to because you NEED one.. don't expect big improvements in the cooling because you ain't gonna get em I don't think.
 
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