Help needed for headset controller circuit

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28 Jul 2011
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Hi, first of all i was not sure were to post this(hope here is ok). I have a big problem with my Tritton AX Pro headset, the wires of the in-line controller have been ripped out. I searched the internet for a fix or schematic of some sort to reattach the wires but i did not find anything. If maybe someone has a pair and could help me out it would be greatly appreciated :) Thanks for taking the time to read this.
here are some images that might help you out. the wires are all different so i assume if somebody knows to which i have to reattach, i could get it done. Also if you would like me to type out what is written on the board i could as they are not clear in the pic. thanks again :)
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Also i have tried to contact tritton but they did not respond so i was hoping one of you geniuses here could help me :P
 
Does the wire colors match or the same color as on the other side? if it is you could probably based your rewiring on that otherwise your out of luck and needs a another set to copy the original wiring location.

How were you able to rip the wires out as the cable has a stopper to help this from hapenning unless you open it up.

You can also try using a high magnification magnifying glass and check the solder points hoping that you might be able to identify the left over wires (if any ) and match it to the colored wires.
 
The stopper broke and so with just normal use, the wires ripped. I tried to match them to the other side but colours dont match :/ I'll try the magnification thing but i think you're right and i might need another pair . Thanks anyway :) cheers
 
Hey Folks. I'm in the same boat as the OP. The Wires dont match from side to side.

Wonder if anyone would be willing to open their in line controller up and take nice pic for me to copy and solder accordingly.

Thanks,
Murdo
 
Hello guys.

I found this thread for a very different reason : I was googling about the mini DIN pinout of the Tritton AX Pro headset. I will explain why further...

English is not my first langage. I hope you will understand me...

Your problem is rather easy to fix...

You just have to identify the wires in order to re solder them where they have to go. And this is easy ! Trust me.

You can do this using a multimeter. A analogue multimeter will be easier to use. The very best : an oscilloscope, but it is absolutely not required. The multimeter will be used to check the signals on the mini DIN output on the Sound Control Unit (the 5.1 decoder). You need something to see the signal when it comes out to the tested pin.

First, download this file : http://download.tfm.ro/w32/Test AC3 v2.0.avi

This file, with a player, will be the signal source.

It is a AVI AC3 (Dolby Digital) 5.1 test video. It sends signals to the speakers and shows the position of the source. You must enable a passthrough between your player and the SPDIF / TOSlink output, in order to send a true 5.1 signal to the decoder. VLC does it fine. Maybe, you will need AC3 Filter to achieve this.

The 9 pin mini DIN socket offers 10 contacts : 9 pins, and the chassis (metal around the the pins).

pins :

- front left
- front right
- center
- surround left
- surround right
- sub
- mic
- +5V
- 0V

Th 5V powers the electronics of the sound control unit, and the microphone bias. You just need to check every output with the multimeter, and you will find it. The 0V of the multimeter will be connected to the ground around the socket. You will need small probes. I used solderless breadbord jumper leads with grips ; if you hav'nt, you could use short thin copper wires, stapples, or even needles. Have a look here : http://www.instructables.com/id/Custom-Breadboard-Test-Leads/

Now, play the avi. While the avi is playing, plug the multimeter to each output on the mini DIN socket. The signal output would be about 1 V peak to peak with this test video. Watch the video. When you see something on the multimeter, note what signal is active. Only the first part of the video is usefull (left, right, center, rear right, rear left and sub). The second part sends signals to two speakers simultaneously...

Now, you have identified 7 outputs :

- +5V

then

- front left
- front right
- center
- surround left
- surround right
- sub

You have to find the last two :

- 0V
- mic

Finding the 0V with an oscilloscope is very easy : the same noise will be observed on the 0V pin and the ground around the socket. The 9th output is the mic ! I did it that way.

Without an oscilloscope, it is a little more tricky. First, open Control Panel, Sound, Recording tab. Then, with a 1K resistor, make a bridge between one of the remaining two outputs and one of the previously identified outputs (except the 5V one !). The 1K resistor is required to avoid shorting the output, in case of non protected output.

For example, bridge the output you identified as front left with one of the two unidentified outputs. This redirects this output to the supposed mic input. Play the video. If the connection is made with the mic input, you will see the green bargraph playing for the USB microphone. That's it ! You've got your pinout ! If nothing happens, it is because it was the 0V. Try the other, and you will verify that it is the mic input. I just tested the method for you, it works perfect.

Now, be sure all the remaining leads are deconnected from the PCB (printed circuit). With the multimeter, test every lead against every pin of the male mini DIN. This way, you will know what lead color is for for what pin. Don't forget : everything is inverted ! (mirror). *DO NOT* use the ohm-meter on leads connected to PCB : you could destroy some ICs !

On the PCB, inputs should be marked :

FL : front left
FR : front right
RL or SL: rear left (or surround left)
RR or SR: rear right (or surround right)
CEN or CENT : center
SUB : sub
MIC : microphone
5V : 5V
GND or 0V : GND

Resolder the leads, and you're done !

I do not use a Tritton, I got a Sharkoon X-Tatic Pro. It is quite similar. But it does not come with a cable adapter (9-pin analogue plug -> 4 x 3.5 mm). Sharkoon do not provide such an accessory, and do not sell it as an accessory. I determined my pinout in order to make my own analogue adapter. Why do I want an adapter ? For two reasons :

- 1 - my mobo does not encode Dolby Digital Live. Asus saved a few dollars... on a P9X79-E WS. So, it is impossble to get surround with PC games.

- 2 - even if it would, it is stupid to encode the surround channels, go through the SPDIF or TOSlink, and then decode. Due to its bandwidth, digital link is made for two channels : 5.1 needs lossy compression. It will be better to get signal directly from the analogue jacks.

The Tritton is quite similar. I suspect electronics to be nearly the same. I opened my Sound Control Unit as you did, and I found the same number of ICs. I am pretty sure you have a SONIX SN8P2711 (8 bit microcontroller), a 24C02 (EPROM), four PT2308 or SGM4809 (headphone amps), and a PT2258 (6 channel volume controler).

I suspect the pinout of the Sharkoon mini DIN to be the same, but I prefer not to give you my pinout until you determine yours, because it could be very different, and it could be a source of error.
 
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