Help on my Tee setup for presure and flow!

Permabanned
Joined
14 Jul 2005
Posts
2,051
Location
Portishead, Bristol
Need some help in working out which way to have this set up.

presure.jpg


I need to conect a presure gauge to one of these outlets, ether 1 or 2.

The other outlet is go to my loop. Pump is for 1 rad and 1 block onlY. Same setup will be done 6 times in total.

Barbs will be 1/2'' and hose is masterclear.

Can you advise me so i can built thess fittings up

Thank you

Pete
 
Not sure I understand the question. The main flow should go straight through a T with the fill pipe being the line at 90 degrees usually upwards. The pressure gauge (why do you want one, by the way? They generally restrict flow.) must be in-line with your flow so should be on the outward barb.
 
6 pumps in a silent system i wont know if there running so the needle on the gauge will move up to 4psi + as my test of them showed but now i got the right kit i need to set it up but i wana make sure i have it done right.

Question is which number to run the preusre gauge off.

My fill line is on the inlet to my pumps and is way away from the unit it's self
 
Pete

Have the T line on the inlet.

Have the pressure gauge immediately AFTER the pump.

The pressure will vary throughout the loop. Highest pressure at pump outlet, lowest at pump inlet.

Don't put the gauge on inlet side as you probably wont get a reading - could even be -ve pressure at that point.

Also consider that the most restrictive loop will offer the highest pressure reading at pump outlet side.

A theoretical zero resistance loop with maximum flow rate will have no pressure. Conversely, no flow has max pressure. If you connect tubing direct from pump to pressure gauge (no loop, no flow) you will get maximum pressure (head) offered by the pump.

A pressure gauge does not have to be inline like a flow meter. You can have a T but make sure it is AFTER the pump with the flow going in a straight line.

Unlike a flow meter, they are no more restrictive than the T itself.

Hence, you will need 2 T's per loop.

How did you test the meter?

Goodluck :D


/edit/ for avoidance of confusion
Have a T for filling before the pump (flow straight through)
Have a T after the pump for pressure gauge (flow straight though)
Gauge on position 1 (any length of pipe or direct as it will make no difference)
Each meter will give a different reading depending on loop resistance.
Lowest pressure will be the highest flow and vice versa. (all pumps being equal)

I've got a sneeky feeling this isn't going to work out as you planned.
 
Last edited:
Morning. I've sorted it all out and going for number one!

I gotta help the old man fix his bug rider now but i willpost the vidoes of them in testing latter!
 
Here goes fokes. This clock thing has messed me up a little. All the info of present for you on the guages

Okay Tom talked me into it.

Really wanted to know if these 20mm presure gauges i got off online auction site would work or not. Found very little in off cuts (can't wait for my 100ft to arrive). 1 Y part. I found some really odd small tubing which i sliped over the thread on the gauge which then fitted tightly in the 1/2''!!

1 Modded DDC 10w rev 2 now an 18w. Hope these photos are okay.

IMG_0367.jpg


The setup

IMG_0366.jpg


DD RBX with No. #5 nozle, it's the one with the jets!

IMG_0365.jpg


Love my kitchen!

IMG_0362.jpg


I make it to be 3.75psi of presure there. (this photo make cool desktop in high res!)

Video's - sporry had to use Megauploader

Power up on the pump, watch the gauge!

More presure in test 2!

I also found the possible casues of these loud DDC's...i'm kinda spoked and confued but meh i'll let you know after one more test
 
Not sure what to make of that presure wise

Fittings came whoo!! Photos of them all and then how it'll go bar the hose needed to link the gauge to the Tee. Enjoy. Oh hand/fingers is the misis by the way.

IMG_0467.jpg


All of what came

IMG_0473.jpg


Bit needed to make one gauge off one pump work

IMG_0474.jpg


G1/8 to G1/8 sleave fitting

IMG_0475.jpg


G1/4 female Tee with a 1/4 male to male
 
IMG_0476.jpg


G1/8 to G1/8 sleav fitting & G1/8 8mm push fitting

IMG_0477.jpg


G1/4 female Tee, G1/4 male to male, G1/4 8mm push fitting, G1/4 1/2'' barb

All threads to be PTFE taped up, blue hose cut to length, 1/2'' babrs to be ordered

Pretty cool.

£38.16 for all that lot above to make the gauges work.

4 DDC-1T
7 LCD temp displays
15ft masterclear hose
10 Yates
5 PA120.1 rads
10 1/2'' barbs for the rads
I already had a PA120.3
Sliver RBX for my NB heh
7 40mm presure gauges
Case
Fitting and hose for the guages

Total £713.16 so far inc all the above!

Got pump tops next, 6 Swifttech micro res's, thats £200 ish, case mods, blocks, then the kit heheh so probs £1k in case and cooling alone and then 2k i guess in kit

Nice £3k system i guess

Pete

Edit: This is how it looks bar the pump lined on

IMG_0112.jpg
 
Cool bro, yeah that's the ticket with the T set-up.

The 8mm blue pipe will be fine, no pressure difference.

#5 nozzle is pretty darn restrictive IIRC. With a rad in there too, you should see a higher pressure (marginally).

I would expect the RBX to be the most restrictive loop and therefore the biggest pressure reading.

Concern is for some of the less restrictive loops, you may not see much of a deflection on the gauge at start up.

For the less important loops you could always introduce your own restriction a bit if needed (ball valve or hose clamp etc) at the very slight expense of cooling. Hey you could even be totally anal and tune pressure and flow to read the same for all 6 :D

Nice work
 
Last edited:
Yeah i had option of 4, 6 and 8mm and though sod it 8mm will do!

Yeah #5 is more than a Strom G4 rev 1 & 2! With a rad in there presure drops slightly as the loop is contiusly fed.

The RBX as i said in the stuff above was for testing only.

I might be using a APoge GTX or a Fuzon. I might just swaped my X6800 for a QX6700 so WC block might change we will see.

The gauges will move, they will all read the head presure pretty much. 3psi shown at least.

Yeah cable ties are here x 1000 to use on the end of barbs to make the hose narrow to tune flow, presure, restrictions. Hell i can tune phase so water is easy.

I might do a test tomorrow with the new kit we will see.

Pete

***F1ZZY*** said:
Cool bro, yeah that's the ticket with the T set-up.

The 8mm blue pipe will be fine, no pressure difference.

#5 nozzle is pretty darn restrictive IIRC. With a rad in there too, you should see a higher pressure (marginally).

I would expect the RBX to be the most restrictive loop and therefore the biggest pressure reading.

Concern is for some of the less restrictive loops, you may not see much of a deflection on the gauge at start up.

For the less important loops you could always introduce your own restriction a bit if needed (ball valve or hose clamp etc) at the very slight expense of cooling. Hey you could even be totally anal and tune pressure and flow to read the same for all 6 :D

Nice work
 
Drazic said:
Yeah #5 is more than a Strom G4 rev 1 & 2! With a rad in there presure drops slightly as the loop is contiusly fed.
The RBX as i said in the stuff above was for testing only.

Pressure drops??? are you sure???

should go up as you introduce more resistance.

If you get chance when you test next time, try your gauge T set up, no blocks just pipe in and out the bowl, what is the pressure reading?

Slowly close/restrict the outlet pipe with your thumb and see how the psi reading changes (careful, it will top the meter out quicky)
 
***F1ZZY*** said:
Pressure drops??? are you sure???

should go up as you introduce more resistance.

If you get chance when you test next time, try your gauge T set up, no blocks just pipe in and out the bowl, what is the pressure reading?

Slowly close/restrict the outlet pipe with your thumb and see how the psi reading changes (careful, it will top the meter out quicky)

Yep, big talk on XS with it when i did the tests. Marci aka Thermochill god, creater yader yader said.

It's be zero as there is no restiction in the loop.

Here is the setup. The old man is busy fannying about with other things so the bug can wait!

IMG_0116.jpg


I'll fill the rad via the bleed hole as that will be my res etc etc.

Flow goes

PUMP>TEE (GAUGE)>RBX #5 NOZZLE>RAD>PUMP

Nice tight loop

Probs test it tormrow now
 
I got bord of waiting!!!

IMG_0120.jpg


IMG_0118.jpg


I'm not overly impressed but i can tell my 6 pumps are running now!

I need a res really for when i do bench tests like this. The rad is not the best thing to use nor fill but meh it does.

If i make the tubing dia smaller on any part of the pumps outlet after the gauge to the blocks inlet presure does go up! How ever seams in a closed loop it's smaller!

I also have confermed what i though is casuing all the pump noise too.

Pete
 
You should be impressed... that's the point, the pressure reading is lower when flow is greater.

Ok, you might not be impressed that the gauges aren't going to red-line but, you have just proven that you get better performance with a closed loop than with a huge bowl as a res.

What is happening is the pump cannot exert the same pressure because the suction side is pulling the water through. Kind of a push / pull thing.

There is probably a similar pressure drop accross the block (probably higher) as rather than going from +ve pressure to zero, it goes from +ve to -ve.

Result is more flow, flow is king, hurrah..!!!

I'm not sure what the other blocks are going to be, but they likely won't be as restirictive as an RBX#5. The others will see even less of a deflection.
 
Back
Top Bottom