Help stop my 12900k boiling itself

I no longer have an MSI board, but the premise is the same. As mentioned in that "other" post I found both my MSI board I had and the Gigabyte I now have would put more voltage into the CPU than was needed for stability, even when overclocked.
There are plenty of YT vids going into such detail, I imagine.
With my my Gigabyte board I am able to put a small negative offset that allows my 12700k to run at 5.1Ghz / 4Ghz with no heat issues.
I have tried a constant voltage, some prefer this, but I do not see the point in that. As with many things tho there isn't an absolute right way for everyone.
I like my CPU to vary its speed and also its voltage, stability is not compromised.

I absolutely do not run the likes of CB, especially in this weather. CB is not really a means to an end in terms of assessing how you typically use your PC. Altho some seem to enjoy spending lots of time involving that.
If it's not a problem now, then leave things as they are. If it might be a problem in the future..........................deal with it then. It is far too warm to do meaningful tests and make cooling adjustments now.

My temps of the CPU I note are an average of 10 seconds, in terms of fan control. I do not bother about "spikes" but trends.
Appreciate the help
 
Guys i need help with similar issue, my 12900k at idle is around 35-40c on a warm day. It spikes up and down quite high when running programs even though its not really being pushed. When running cinebench r23 it immediately spikes to 100c and stays there for 10mins and gets nearly 27k score. Is this normal? Running a nzxt 360mm cooler. So far system has been stable playing games and general use fur many hours. Didnt crash for 10min cinebench test and goes back to 35-40c when finished. Whats going on? :( its stock no OC xmp enabled ddr5 and more worried about the spiking than the cinebench tenps though id like to reduce this for a small OC. MSI Tomahawk mobo with thermal grizzly lots of fans o11 evo case.
Sound normal considering how hot our weather is. I'm guessing CPU is throttling to not go above 100c. I assume your 360mm rad mounted as intake. Are it's fans and pump running at 100c?
 
It stays at a steady 100c so i guess so. Yep its mounted at the top exhausting from the case (i know its not really the most optimal especially in these conditions.) Pretty sure the rad was not at a 100c. I'm hoping when the weather goes back to normal it will show me some thermal headroom, but still concerned the cpu/cooling has an issue somewhere (could be just anxiety, first build in ten years), at idle its like 35-40 which is ok, I've seen it idle at 32 when it was cooler(built on Saturday). At some point I'd like to push it to its limits purely for fun. It was mainly the steep peaks when using pc which concerned me. Im assuming when I open programs the mobo is just unleashing power into it. I guess I'll have to wait until the heat dies down to really test it and try undervolting and see if idle and highs are lower. My gut feeling is it wont be much cooler.
 
What case is this build in and what is case fan setup?
Like I asked, is pump running at full speed?
Faster coolant flow means heat is moved away from CPU better. Higher rad fan speed means more airflow thru rad so better cooler and lower temp water entering waterblock / CPU.
With rad fans exhaust you need good case airflow so air entering radiator is as close to room ambient as possible. If you have poor case airflow air entering radiator is being heated up in case before reaching rad. Combined with our hot weather you could easily have air 10-20c warmer, meaning CPU will run hotter.

Really need to know that pump is at full speed, what case you have and what case airflow setup is to be able to offer educated guesses about your cooling.
 
Pretty sure the pump was maxed as was running NZXT software to go to 100per cent at like 80c, though i didnt specifically check. Its a lian li o11 dynamic evo with 6 fans (al120s) pulling air in and 4 (including radiator fans) pushing out. Those case fans were also maxed as the curve will max them way before 100c.
 
It stays at a steady 100c so i guess so. Yep its mounted at the top exhausting from the case (i know its not really the most optimal especially in these conditions.) Pretty sure the rad was not at a 100c. I'm hoping when the weather goes back to normal it will show me some thermal headroom, but still concerned the cpu/cooling has an issue somewhere (could be just anxiety, first build in ten years), at idle its like 35-40 which is ok, I've seen it idle at 32 when it was cooler(built on Saturday). At some point I'd like to push it to its limits purely for fun. It was mainly the steep peaks when using pc which concerned me. Im assuming when I open programs the mobo is just unleashing power into it. I guess I'll have to wait until the heat dies down to really test it and try undervolting and see if idle and highs are lower. My gut feeling is it wont be much cooler.

I have the DDR4 version of your mobo, and I'm sure there are more elegant and probably efficient ways of doing it, but I OC'd my 12700K to 5.1/4/4 and just set the Vcore to 1.24W.

Runs this OC all day long with OK temps (I'm running a Corsair 360 AIO).
 
How does it not? What if you're into 3D modelling/rendering for hours or encoding videos? It's likely going to do the same thing. Peg all cores 100% for an hour or two = extreme heat. Depending on how complex your project is. The whole purpose of having a good system is not having to worry about thermal throttling later. It should be able to cope now, no matter what you throw at it.
Well that also depends on your ambient though. During the winter @ 20c ambient my u12a can sustain 5.2 all core and 5.7 on 2 core on my 12900k indefinitely running CBR23, but during the summer with ambients of 30 or more, yeah, can't do that. So if you plan on ocing, usually you need different profiles for summer and winter
 
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