High load temps on new W/C Loop

I tightened it gradually, 2 opposite corners at a time. Once they were all pretty tight, I moved onto fully tightening them individually. It was not possible to go tighter!

I have tried the sensor test again. I ran it again this evening after the rebuild, and the max temp seen was 77 degrees on core 2 (seems to be the hottest) and core 0 maxed out at 56 degrees. As such, core 2 has the biggest movement, and core 0 has the smallest.

I know a strange issue has been found with core heat difference, but out of curiosity, what RPM are the rad fans running at, when on load?
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The Radiator fans are all fixed speed, under-volted. Currently, the Rad fans are both running at 1278rpm (approx.), with the remaining chassis fans running at 1060rpm ish.

On a separate note, i have found the invoice for the mobo/CPU/RAM bundle, and it was sold as a single unit, so I have no idea if the CPU was retail or OEM. I would be amazed if they wasted money on a retail CPU, when it would be shipped OEM, so to speak, so that would mean its out of warranty, but I think I will raise a note with them anyway, see what they say.
 
OcUK have agreed that the temps are not what they should be, and after reviewing the evidence (this thread) have agreed to RMA the chip and send out a new one.

It does mean I will be without a PC for a few days, but I guess it's worth it in the long run. :)
 
Ignoring the weird core 0, it's still running hotter than it did when it was air cooled so I can't see how the cpu is at fault. When you take the cpu out to return it, check the base of that block to see if it's warped/bowed. It might be a idea to do the bucket test again as well. This time through the whole loop though just to rule out a blockage somewhere.
 
Nice one OP I would imagine you got one the worst quality IHS cpu's, friend of mine had one and it was a pig after a delid it went from 90c load (4.4ghz, gaming not prime) to 60c load.
 
This to me screams software faulty, more specifically BIOS.. Or... A bad thermal diode in the CPU.

Looking at the temps core 0 seems to be at the temperatures it should be at.

Try updating or re-flashing the BIOS and see if that clears it.
 
I don't know if you are still having this problem but when I first set my loop up with the raystorm block i was getting 50c idle tempretures. I fixed it by removing the springs from posts that hold it down, then really screwed it tight to the board equally in each corner.

Here is what i mean. Just make sure you do say 3 full turns on one corner, then 3 full turns on the opposite. Do this all the way around.

 
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almighty15 said:
This to me screams software faulty, more specifically BIOS.. Or... A bad thermal diode in the CPU.

Looking at the temps core 0 seems to be at the temperatures it should be at.

Try updating or re-flashing the BIOS and see if that clears it.
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Already tried that. I flashed the motherboard to the latest BIOS, and the idle temps stayed the same, matching between BIOS and windows, so i suspect the software is correct. As this issue has always been preset, in spite of numerous formats, software re-installations, I highly doubt its a software problem. I agree, core 0 is the "proper" temperature that most people seem to get with these clocks on these types of cooling. The fact the other 3 are sky high would appear to be some kind of IHS problem, or sensor issue on the chip itself.

Ignoring the weird core 0, it's still running hotter than it did when it was air cooled so I can't see how the cpu is at fault. When you take the cpu out to return it, check the base of that block to see if it's warped/bowed. It might be a idea to do the bucket test again as well. This time through the whole loop though just to rule out a blockage somewhere.
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I have reviewed the tests I did on the old k2 cooler, and it would appear i made a mistake there. The idle temps, and the load temps are cooler on water. The problem is I never ran the intel burn test whilst the K2 was on the chip, so I have no direct comparisons. What I can tell you, with BOINC running at 100% utilization on all 4 cores pushed the temps to 90 degrees on air. On water, they barely push 75. When I RMA the chip, and the replacement comes back, and the issue is the same, I will eat humble pie, but I really can't see how the loop is the issue.

CertifiedDan - I could try this, however, the block is mounted as tightly as it will go. I cannot turn the lower knurls any more if I wanted to, so I don't think it's a poor mounting. The fact I have re-mounted the block 3 times now, each time getting the same idle and load temps (bar a few degrees), I really don't think mounting is the issue. My idle temps are good (between 28 and 32 degrees, room temp. dependant), its just the load temps that appear to be the issue.

While it will be inconvenient, I will RMA the CPU and see how that goes. If the issues persist, I will probably cry and then look at other things :)
 
pastymuncher said:
Ignoring the weird core 0, it's still running hotter than it did when it was air cooled so I can't see how the cpu is at fault. When you take the cpu out to return it, check the base of that block to see if it's warped/bowed. It might be a idea to do the bucket test again as well. This time through the whole loop though just to rule out a blockage somewhere.
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This ^

Take the whole loop out and push water through the lot to see if its flowing enough.
 
Jay85 said:
Not being funny but... have you checked to see if they pump is even running?
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Take the whole loop out and push water through the lot to see if its flowing enough.
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See Post #38. I have tested the pump. It is working fine. I know what happens when the pump doesn't work, as I managed to accidentally unplug the molex cable on the last rebuild when re-attaching the side panel. The idle temps start at approx 55 degrees, and gradually increase to the Tjmax. When the pump is working, as it is now, the idle temps are fine.

Please stop bashing the pump! It is working. I can feel it vibrating, and can see the fluid moving in the window of the Res.
 
Apart from Jay not reading properly nobody is bashing the pump. We are trying to help you. If you don't want our help/suggestions then just close the thread.

I suggested you test the whole loop for flow now that we know the pump is doing what it should be doing. You could easily have a blockage in the rad or the block itself. It wouldn't be the first block I have seen with swarf left over from the machining still inside. Did you give the rad a proper flushing before you used it? This is important as gunk in the rad can gunge up the block.
 
Kangaxx said:
See Post #38. I have tested the pump. It is working fine. I know what happens when the pump doesn't work, as I managed to accidentally unplug the molex cable on the last rebuild when re-attaching the side panel. The idle temps start at approx 55 degrees, and gradually increase to the Tjmax. When the pump is working, as it is now, the idle temps are fine.

Please stop bashing the pump! It is working. I can feel it vibrating, and can see the fluid moving in the window of the Res.
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Sorry was trying to say... Take the whole loop out of the pc including the block and the rad and test it all for blockages. IE bucket > pump > rad > block > bucket so effectively using the bucket as a res. Then you can see how much is actually flowing.

If its slow, remove the block and test with bucket > pump > rad > bucket

Then test with bucket > pump > block > bucket

At least doing it like this you will see if one of them is restricting water flow.
 
As the CPU is currently back with OcUK, waiting for another one to be shipped out, I have taken the loop apart again, and checked everything you have mentioned.

There are no blockages in the block (I did check on the last mounting, just in case), and as far as I can tell, there are no blockages in the Rad either. The flow rate is the same, even with the block and Rad present in the loop.

I did flush the radiator before installing it (used distilled water. In the distant past it was vinegar that I used, but that appears to not be necessary anymore :)) I didn't see much, if any, flux/crap come out, but I did rinse it through a good 3 times.

On a side note, I may have another way of verifying if the loop is ok or not, as I have another mobo/CPU coming for a NAS box, so I can whack it on this loop and see if the cooling is up to scratch. Not conclusive by any means, granted, but it may show if the loop is doing something it shouldn't be.

I am sorry for my last snappy reply. It had been a crap day, not an excuse I know, but there you go. I know you guys are trying to help, and I do appreciate all the suggestions.

When I have anything further, I will update the thread.
 
Very odd. At least your loop sounds like its clear of restrictions. Hopefully they pick a high clocker out of the box of cpu's for you :D
 
DannagE said:
Very odd. At least your loop sounds like its clear of restrictions. Hopefully they pick a high clocker out of the box of cpu's for you :D
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As it was a pre-clocked bundle, they should do. Only thing that is concerning me is that they don't appear to sell the 3570k as an OEM CPU anymore. The RMA is in "awaiting replacement" status, so who knows how long it'll take to get a replacement. Have to wait and see.
 
My initial thoughts after seeing your pictures where exactly as pastymuncher suggested either your block or the chips IHS was warped or even your over tightening the block. the IC24 rep was using preasure paper to test water blocks could you source some of that to see where the block is actually touching the IHS of the new chip if you still have problems.

Alternatively can you buy or borrow an alternative block to try out.
 
Block doesn't look warped. See below

30920dl.jpg
 
Just a thought, I may be barking up the wrong tree here but you say you fan/pump speed is set to Auto in the bios, could it be that under load the pump is speeding up hence moving the water too fast through the system and not giving it enough time to cool down?
 
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