Home Network Wiring...

Just thought I would add my thoughts as I have just had my whole house wired with CAT6, and it is one of the best decisions I have made.

First piece of advice as mentioned earlier in this thread is get 2-4 ports at each location as it isn't going to cost any more (other than cables) to have this done.

As an example I have 6 behind my Lounge TV so the following devices can connect into the network TV, PS3, HTPC, Raspberry Pi, Foxtel (Sky equivalent in Australia) and one spare. I then have 4 in my office, two in the master bedroom and two in the media room.

Like you, I have all of my networking equipment in a discrete spot; in my case in a ventilated cupboard above the fridge which is in the centre of the house, this includes a Cable Wireless AC Modem/Router, 24 Port TP Link Gigabit Switch, and a Synology 1515+ NAS.

I know in your OP you mentioned getting a server which would work well and you could remote into it from another PC, Laptop, Tablet, Smartphone which would eliminate the need for a Keyboard Monitor and Mouse under the stairs. If you haven't already I would recommend looking at a Synology NAS instead, they pretty much do exactly the same thing, incredibly easy to set up and the SHR Raid system is fantastic and will provide you with 1 or 2 disk protection should one of them fail. I am thrilled to bits with mine, I run a Plex server which handles all of my Films, Blu-Rays, TV shows and work very well with the Rasplex operating system on the Raspberry Pi. I have my Google Drive and One Drive cloud services installed on it too, along with a whole host of different functions and features. It has an App Store equivalent called Package Centre and you can download your own applications like iTunes Server. You can use it download torrents and it has full VPN support if that is of interest too. But I think the best thing about the Synology is that it is so easy to setup irrespective of your level of technical ability.

I hope this helps.
 
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Well, it's worth keeping in mind that with good quality cable and some fussing, USB and HDMI can both be routed over cat5/6/6a cables. You obviously don't go via a switch for this (usb/hdmi over ethernet is something else entirely) but there's definitely... options regarding placement and extension.

E.g: Put the computer in the cupboard, have it's HDMI plugged into a HDMI over cat6 box (some are better than other's, do your research) and a USB port pluged into USB over cat 6. You can now set up keyboard, mouse and monitor in any room in the house with 2 spare ports (set the computer to wake up on keyboard power switch).
 
Guys, thank you all so much for the info. Although I can't reply individually to you all, I've read all your posts and taken into account what you've said. demon8991, I really appreciated the simplified response!

I'm planning to send this to the builder. Could someone please check it out for me? I'm going to do everything from the patch onwards myself.

As shown in the drawing, please could you quote for the supply and installation of the following:
2 x CAT6 4 port faceplate for Living/Dining and Bedroom 2 (example)
1 x CAT6 2 port faceplate for Bedroom 1 (example)
1 x 24 port CAT6 patch panel (example)
Shielded solid core CAT6 cabling (example)
All faceplates are to be positioned as shown on the drawings. The cabling is then to be routed back to the cupboard under the stairs, and terminated in the patch panel, which is to be wall mounted. Each connection on each faceplate needs to be numbered so as to match the patch panel, the connections to which should also be numbered.

I'm sure your electricians will be well aware of the processes involved in wiring network cabling, but just in case, the CAT6 cabling does need to be wired away from the electrical cables to prevent interference.
Click to expand...

Edit: Had to send this off unfortunately, they're hassling me. If anyone does see any problems though, please let me know. (example) were supposed to be links, which didn't copy.
 
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Mercutio said:
Well, it's worth keeping in mind that with good quality cable and some fussing, USB and HDMI can both be routed over cat5/6/6a cables. You obviously don't go via a switch for this (usb/hdmi over ethernet is something else entirely) but there's definitely... options regarding placement and extension.

E.g: Put the computer in the cupboard, have it's HDMI plugged into a HDMI over cat6 box (some are better than other's, do your research) and a USB port pluged into USB over cat 6. You can now set up keyboard, mouse and monitor in any room in the house with 2 spare ports (set the computer to wake up on keyboard power switch).
Click to expand...

That sounds very cool, thanks!
 
If you're doing the ends etc yourself, I highly recommend the following kit..

Tools

Cable stripper
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cyclops-S...a&pid=100005&rk=1&rkt=6&sd=161700636104&rt=nc

Punchdown tool
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0000AZK...m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_r=1HTNYDMP88HA46V0J8FC

Mini side cutters
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-1252...=1431435012&sr=8-1&keywords=mini+side+cutters

100 pack of 100x2.5mm cable ties


The cyclops cable stripper tool is fantastic. Makes any cabling job a breeze.
You can get cheaper punchdown tools, but I've never had to 'redo' one when using the one above. Have done hundreds of them in work.
Mini side cutter is great for chopping off the nylon cord and plastic core, nice handy size. Great for the zip ties too.


edit.

Great testing tool for making sure the wires are all good.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Durable-R...le-Tester-with-Portable-Bag-New-/400811777577
 
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Thanks for those, bledd. The only thing I'm likely to be doing myself is going from patch to switch. I'm no DIY expert so doing the whole thing would probably end with the house falling down...cyclops looks interesting, though I can't comprehend how it works.
 
RE master socket

New build properties are now being fitted with a new Network Terminating Equipment box, the XNTE, instead of the previous NTE5 master socket. This is fitted outside the property and BT responsibility ends at the XNTE. It contains all the master socket components.

So as such you dont have a master socket, unless your having fibre then a vsdl faceplate is fitted , which then makes it a master for the purpose of modem/router connection
 
lude1962 said:
RE master socket

New build properties are now being fitted with a new Network Terminating Equipment box, the XNTE, instead of the previous NTE5 master socket. This is fitted outside the property and BT responsibility ends at the XNTE. It contains all the master socket components.

So as such you dont have a master socket, unless your having fibre then a vsdl faceplate is fitted , which then makes it a master for the purpose of modem/router connection
Click to expand...

I don't think the developers fit these any more on behalf of the builders, they were a bit a flop before they ever took off due mainly to the arrival of Fiber and the requirements for that.
 
dirtychinchilla said:
Guys, thank you all so much for the info. Although I can't reply individually to you all, I've read all your posts and taken into account what you've said. demon8991, I really appreciated the simplified response!

I'm planning to send this to the builder. Could someone please check it out for me? I'm going to do everything from the patch onwards myself.



Edit: Had to send this off unfortunately, they're hassling me. If anyone does see any problems though, please let me know. (example) were supposed to be links, which didn't copy.
Click to expand...


You haven't quoted how tall you want the wall bracket in terms of network rack height stated in 'U'.

I have the following one which suits a 2U patch panel and a 1U switch.

http://www.cablemonkey.co.uk/patchi...tBsAyA#/usize-3u/topbottomcover-withoutplates
 
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I you think you might want anything else that fits into a network rack then you might want to consider the 6U height one. Those brackets from cable monkey are deep enough to accommodate most switches but bear in mind the depth if you want to put anything else in to it. Not all wall brackets are as deep, some are only suitable for the depth of a patch panel.
 
dirtychinchilla said:
Is it absolutely necessary to have one? I'm thinking what I've specced is overkill now. I don't think I'll need a 24 patch panel. Oh well, I guess it won't do any harm!
Click to expand...

Not strictly necessary as the 3U will accommodate the patch panel and the switch and it might be best to limit it to just those two items, being that it's in a cupboard. Just thought I'd mention it though as the 6U bracket is hardly any more and if you did want to utilise further rack mount equipment the builders might have positioned a socket under the 3U bracket making it somewhat boxed in and more complicated to add a larger bracket later.
 
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