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- 20 Aug 2019
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House is 13 years old and everyone I’ve been into has it like that. Never known one not too even the manual shows it when I looked.
Hot water settings
- Thread starter Erm yeah that’s hard to pick one
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House is 13 years old and everyone I’ve been into has it like that. Never known one not too even the manual shows it when I looked.
You can on a pressurised cylinder. The expansion vessel/air gap and all the pressure and temperature relief valves are fitted to the cylinder and the incoming cold supply.
On tank fed cylinders you have to leave the expansion pipe open, so while you could fit one after the tee for the expansion pipe they're always fitted to the supply to the cylinder.
A gate valve isn't really ideal for holding back mains pressure so a lever valve would be better, but I guess it's a cost thing on new builds.
it's probably worth finding out how much gas you use during the two on periods, and whether one period, maybe longer duration, is adequate,
that can be more efficient you are not re-heating the tank/boiler 'circuit';
also what temp does the tank get too.
https://sustainability.stackexchang...city-does-it-take-to-heat-180-litres-of-water
= 9.5kw/hrs with high efficiency boiler heating the tank 15->60C ... so on a 12KW boiler, just doing that, would take ~45mins.
don't have a tank,but I disabled pre-heat on the boiler, since don't use much hot water outside morning/evening washing and cooking times;
also have a ridiculous amount of water/gas wasted if you do use upstairs hot taps, versus kitchen ones adjacent to boiler.
that can be more efficient you are not re-heating the tank/boiler 'circuit';
also what temp does the tank get too.
https://sustainability.stackexchang...city-does-it-take-to-heat-180-litres-of-water
= 9.5kw/hrs with high efficiency boiler heating the tank 15->60C ... so on a 12KW boiler, just doing that, would take ~45mins.
don't have a tank,but I disabled pre-heat on the boiler, since don't use much hot water outside morning/evening washing and cooking times;
also have a ridiculous amount of water/gas wasted if you do use upstairs hot taps, versus kitchen ones adjacent to boiler.
As others have pointed out the cost savings are very very minimal given how little heat loss is occurring vs actually using the water. During summer last year we were doing 500kWh a month for gas with 2 showers a day (one quite lengthy as i use it to wake up in the morning), washing dishes and cooking. Heating gets a hard off all summer. Given your tank specs, we'd have "wasted" just over 10% of that gas on heat loss from the tank (its not wasted all year though, it heats the house up, so in winter time you can treat it effectively like theres no heat loss as its just a low power radiator in essence). The ideal senario is you heat all the water you will use and use it all instantly so there is no heat loss from the tank, in which case the max you will save is around £5 at todays prices vs keeping it at 65c 24/7 per month. Its not practically possible to do this or even get close (unless you remove the tank and use a combi) so in reality you are at best only going to be save £2-£3 per month, if that.
It gets further complicated by the fact that when you draw hot water from the tank it's replaced with cold so there are losses there. Also note that even if the programmer is set to heat the water for 2 hours the boiler may not be running for that time if water is already up to temperature, the sensor in the tank should inform the boiler that it no longer requires heating.
I wish water tanks had an adjustable and programmable temperature settings in conjunction with the timer. For example, no one washes their hands in 55C or hotter water, it's intolerable, so the water doesn't need to be that temperature at that time. For baths and showers the hot water is usually mixed with cold to lower the temperature but also to provide a better flow rate which is a time when a higher temperature would be desired.
What would be more efficient is a setting for when you need the water to be 45C and when you need it to be hotter, plus a legionnaires cycle once a week to kill the bugs. The savings from not heating water from 45C to 60C every day would be considerable.
I wish water tanks had an adjustable and programmable temperature settings in conjunction with the timer. For example, no one washes their hands in 55C or hotter water, it's intolerable, so the water doesn't need to be that temperature at that time. For baths and showers the hot water is usually mixed with cold to lower the temperature but also to provide a better flow rate which is a time when a higher temperature would be desired.
What would be more efficient is a setting for when you need the water to be 45C and when you need it to be hotter, plus a legionnaires cycle once a week to kill the bugs. The savings from not heating water from 45C to 60C every day would be considerable.
First time having a cylinder so not sure if this is the correct or even economical way of doing it.
Digi stat setup connected to the phone for any override functions/holiday timers etc Cylinder stat set to 67C ish which brings the heating on when it drops below this or as and when we use hot water and the tank is topped up, 300L tank feeding 3 showers and a bath.
Digi stat setup connected to the phone for any override functions/holiday timers etc Cylinder stat set to 67C ish which brings the heating on when it drops below this or as and when we use hot water and the tank is topped up, 300L tank feeding 3 showers and a bath.