How do i get rid of the bubbles?

malccy said:
Always found that if the res can feed the pump easy enough it does not matter where it is although it is preferable to have it high.

Running two watercooled pc's and both have the res on the floor of the case with the rads in the roof of case and never had any problems.
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not saying it's a problem, one of mine is a tank underneath the comp, just it's easier to get rid of bubbles with the comp off and the res high, not that you HAVE to have it there, just that it's easier, it wasn't a definitive statement but a suggestion
 
elfy said:
if the res is not at the highest point then when he turns the comp off to refill the res the water pressure will force water back into the res and air back into the tubing :)
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Sorry but that's not true. If air has no inlet point above water, the water won't fall when within a closed loop.
 
MikeTimbers said:
Sorry but that's not true. If air has no inlet point above water, the water won't fall when within a closed loop.
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so how does he top the water up?

edit: i think the problem everyone is having with what i said is by misunderstanding it :) you have to open the res to refill it, you should refill the res to get the most air out, if the res is at a low or medium point when you open it all the liquad would run out of it, so the res should be at the high point
 
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elfy said:
so how does he top the water up?

edit: i think the problem everyone is having with what i said is by misunderstanding it :) you have to open the res to refill it, you should refill the res to get the most air out, if the res is at a low or medium point when you open it all the liquad would run out of it, so the res should be at the high point
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Noob, you are confused, don't try to confuse others. My post (the long one, not the lamo joke :p ) above is true.

You obviously do not have experience with watercooling or a very good understanding of the physics behind it.

It is a closed loop, liquid will not run out of it, pump running or not.

Back in the early socket A days I had a hydor L30 with a homemade bottle res attached direct to the pump. This was at the bottom of my case. Rad was in the roof. I could open the res and the water would stay in the loop, pump on or pump off.

If water comes flooding out there is a serious problem, as air must be entering the loop somewhere higher than the res. On this basis it can be just as tricky to drain a loop as it is to fill and bleed it.

listen to me and Mike, we speak the truth.
 
orderoftheflame said:
I'd have thought that would hold the water in if there were no where else to suck air in.

Ever tried holding your finger over a straw of water?

Doesn't shoot out when you lift it out the cup, it stays put.
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Kind of true, but NOT directly applicable. If you did the same experiment with 1/2inch id tubing, you would not be able to keep the water in the tube for as long a lenght of tube as the straw.

The surface tension vs the weight of the water is a bit one sided in big tubing.

In the res argument, you are not lifting clear of the water to allow air in the bottom - it is assumed that the res has water in it above the level of the barbs.

A more realistic experiment for explanation is, put your finger on the straw and lift up, but NOT out of the water, keep the tip submerged. That is what is happening in the w/c loop.

To further take it to the watercooling level, submerge say 2ft of clear tubing in a bucket or sink and get all the bubbles out. Lift the tubing, but leave both ends in the water. Water stays in the tube.
:D
 
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***F1ZZY*** said:
That bubble would be blasted round the loop as soon as you switched the pump on.

Meaningless video clip, its about as exciting as a spirit level. :D
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i'm weird, i find spirit levels immensly fun
 
***F1ZZY*** said:
Noob, you are confused, don't try to confuse others. My post (the long one, not the lamo joke :p ) above is true.

You obviously do not have experience with watercooling or a very good understanding of the physics behind it.

It is a closed loop, liquid will not run out of it, pump running or not.
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i'm not gonna bother arguing, just say one last thing :)

i am experienced with water cooling, including phase (well fitting them for friends anyway) :)

i'd try it with a spare res but i don't have any, only have t-lines in my rigs

actually i just tried it with a pan of water and you're right lol. my apologies, comes of too long with t-lines :)
one thing though, if the loop contains too much air and forcing the air into the res lowers the water level below one of the barb holes then, it would mess up a bit.
 
Ok, sorry, didn't want to be harsh.

Experience and understanding are different things (hence the OR in my statement)

Yeah, of course the barbs need to be underwater.
 
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