How many watts?

Yes, I think it was Wilmslow where I spotted some nice ribbon tweeters a while back.

Here's my sub anyway, I never "finished" the finish, hence it's patchy underneath and I didn't do anything with the filled screw holes. In hindsight, I should have had it pinned together instead. I'm considering doing the whole thing in high-gloss piano black, but I'll lose the lovely birch pattern then. I'll list details after the photos. BTW - ignore the horrible carpet + desk, I was in a student house at that point ;)

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Specs are as follows (if I remember correctly!):-

•650W RMS Adire Audio "Shiva" Mk3 12" sub, wired 4 ohm parallel. Very high quality, dual voice coil for multiple configurations, huge peak-to-peak xmax of 31.6mm. Cost ~£150 imported from the states.
•Detonator DT300 sub amp (class D, 300W into 4 ohms, 0.1% THD) with variable HF cut off. Quite a good amp, solid power, again around £150. Would have preferred a MOSFET amp of some description, but couldn't afford.
•Double-flared reflex port, forget the length it was cut to but basically it's tuned to 22Hz and obviously wide enough so there is no "chuffing". I block the port for most music to tighten the sound a bit, and unleash it every so often depending on what I'm listening to. DnB in particular sounds awesome with it!
•25mm birch-faced ply cabinet, 96L volume, fully braced wall-to-wall inside for maximum strength (ie. not just a box), filled with well... cotton wool really.
•Little rubber feet!

Think that's covered everything. The driver weighs a ton on its own, but together the entire unit is about 40kg! It needs to be really - no point using 10mm chipboard! It's surprising how much difference the solidity makes - I've heard reports of people putting granite slabs on top to really smoothen the response, with the bonus of a unique design! Below is a computer generated amplitude response graph for the sub with 300W input (this is purely emulated on amplification, sensitivity, box volume & reflex tuning only - it doesn't take into account the actual response of the driver, but the pressure levels will be very similar, probably a bit higher in-room). In reality, the graph would follow the general line, but be a bit more rocky, and would have sharp fall off after about 250Hz. Note the output level at 20Hz though! I've run a frequency generator with 15Hz through it - I couldn't hear it, but everything was rattling! It's not so much the power of thing anyway, it's the effortless way it pounds it out on multiple frequencies. It's very hard to catch it out. You wouldn't believe how much music you're missing without one - hidden sub-basslines, extra depth on bass drums etc.

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Anyway, my idea for these ribbon tweeter based speakers is to have one of these each side, but in a smaller, sealed enclosure for a tighter sound. They're not like car subs - these are actually quite musical and well suited to true hifi applications. Man, it would be heaven!

Wow, typed more than I expected there. Sorry for the thread hijack!
 
I love the fact that you've tuned it so low! :cool:

Too many cheap subwoofers that you buy are tuned too high to achieve SPL... :(

That said, your comment on car subs may be a little unfounded... whilst the majority of purchasers tend to make their car go "BOOOM!" and be happy, you can get some fantastic drivers, and you should see some of the enclosures that people can build too...

You should check out a program called BassBox Pro - you put in your driver's specific qts, fs etc and you can play around with different enclosures and see the frequency response. :)
 
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daz said:
That said, your comment on car subs may be a little unfounded... whilst the majority of purchasers tend to make their car go "BOOOM!" and be happy, you can get some fantastic drivers, and you should see some of the enclosures that people can build too...

You should check out a program called BassBox Pro - you put in your driver's specific qts, fs etc and you can play around with different enclosures and see the frequency response. :)

Yeah sorry, the car sub statement seems like a bit of sweeping generalisation - I just wanted to get the point across that this is in a different league to your average joe rattling boom, sony xplode or whatever, you can get some truly awesome car subs.

Adire Audio are actually quite well respected in the car audio scene - they do a lower impedance version of every hifi sub to fit the job. One of their biggest monsters is the 1600W RMS Brahma with over 2" peak-to-peak xmax :eek:

Even without an enclosure at all, that thing could destroy worlds :D

My sub was actually designed in BassBox Pro taking into account all the driver's attributes - that amplitude response graph was one of its outputs :D
 
XtAsY said:
I have the Creative Gigaworks 7.1

70W per channel x 7 = 490W RMS
210 W subwoofer = 210W RMS

So total system power is 700W RMS, thats 990 W peak I think.. you gotta divide by 0.707

Got those too :)

my b&w DM604 S3's claim 200W rms each. :)
 
i hate it when people talk crap about sound, like saying, the sound is 'delicate' and plucking out random words that dont make sense to describe sound, 'oh its so transparent' i mean some get ridiculous, so lets not say stuff like this any more, no one has a clue wtf your going on about cos you just made another word up.

mini hifi @ 140 Watts
 
taz488 said:
i hate it when people talk crap about sound, like saying, the sound is 'delicate' and plucking out random words that dont make sense to describe sound, 'oh its so transparent' i mean some get ridiculous, so lets not say stuff like this any more, no one has a clue wtf your going on about cos you just made another word up.

mini hifi @ 140 Watts

:confused: Sound can be delicate? Sound quality just isn't measured in watts, watts are effectively meaningless really. I don't know much about Hi-Fi's and sound quality but I know enough to say that an Aiwa Hi-Fi that 'has' a 1000 watts RMS is gonna sound pretty crap compared to some Hi-Fi Seperates and some decent speakers for a similar price.
 
taz488 said:
i hate it when people talk crap about sound, like saying, the sound is 'delicate' and plucking out random words that dont make sense to describe sound, 'oh its so transparent' i mean some get ridiculous, so lets not say stuff like this any more, no one has a clue wtf your going on about cos you just made another word up.

mini hifi @ 140 Watts

'Transparent' is shorthand for 'the system isn't causing any unwanted harmonic distortion or otherwise affecting the sound of the source material'.

'Delicate' generally means good clear highs, even when they are low in volume. It can also mean that quiet sounds have good separation.

Or maybe you'd like people to type those kinds of things every time?

Very impressive work BTW BigToe - thanks for the pics :)
 
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id like people to stop using stupid 'code' words that make the people typing them sound stupid. type something meaningfull
 
taz488 said:
id like people to stop using stupid 'code' words that make the people typing them sound stupid. type something meaningfull

Well, now you have an idea what some of them mean.
Spend more time talking about audio and you'll find yourself using such terms yourself.

Hell - it's the same with any interest...
 
The age old argument.
Since I've played in working bands for the last 36 years I have found watts to be totally meaningless.
The best example I can give you is to go in a Hi Fi shop and ask for a 100 watt amp and speaker system to be tested and then go in a music shop and hear a 100 watt PA system tested. No competition.
My mate bought a 700 watt surround sound system last week and I said "Just think my first PA in 1970 was 7 times less powerful than that - NOT".
Anybody who plays in a band will tell you that their music gear completely blows away hi fi gear at the same wattage rating.
To be honest I don't know how hi fi manufacturers get away with it.
 
I wouldn't say proper Hi-Fi systems are claiming false wattages. Mini Hi-Fi definately, but high end equiptment are very accurate, even under quoting specs sometimes. Your mate probably has some satellite and sub system and that wouldn't suprise me at all if it was nothing like 700W. A real 700W system can be bought for a fair outlay and will be very loud, but I doubt it will "sound" as loud as PA gear mainly because it has lower distortion.

High end gear has an odd effect whereby the sound can be so clear and undistorted it sounds much quieter than it is (an orchestra can be very loud but doesn't sound it especially since the sound is so pure. I've heard 2, its awesome if you never have ;)) . PA gear tends to get away with higher distortion levels. Even a small amount of distortion gives the impression of a much higher level (partly because of the increase in average volume and partly because of the additional overtones it'll add. You'll know how much louder overdriven guitar is to clean even though the "power" is the same).

Also a PA is rarely required to operate over such a broad frequency range (except massive outdoor/arena equiptment) and may only be used for vocals. Vocal frequencies require to loweest power to sound loud since our ears are (unsuprisingly) especially sensitive to that range :)
 
Dr.EM said:
Also a PA is rarely required to operate over such a broad frequency range (except massive outdoor/arena equiptment) and may only be used for vocals. Vocal frequencies require to loweest power to sound loud since our ears are (unsuprisingly) especially sensitive to that range :)

I'll disagree with that because every band I know (which is a fair few) use their PA's with every instrument plugged into it and the average PA round here is about 1k to 2k.
My band goes out with a 2k in small pubs and everything goes through it.
 
I put my electric drum set through one on our annual gig :D . It wasn't too bad, but the bass cone split before we got it set up so that probably didn't help :eek: . That was a PA homebuilt in the 70s or something though :cool: . It took a lot of power to try and put across the bass drum sound (outdoors). It would have gone much louder with just vocals through it.

Are you talking 2k as in 2kW, or it cost £2000? If your talking 2kW that is a LOT of power for pubs. If you bought a Hi-Fi with that genuine power output (it wouldn't be cheap) it would go to the same volume but with lower distortion. Of course it wouldn't be practical since it would be costly and comparatively delicate. By nature Hi-Fi isn't needed to go to the same level, but if a proper Hi-Fi says 1000W you can bet it'll be as loud as a 1000W PA (though it may not sound it because of the ultra low distortoon and low tonal colouring) and will have a much clearer sound.
 
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