That seems like an aweful lot of effort - I just stuck my Phillips V1 next to the existing light switch. The remote itself is portable so can find itself by the bedside, so this gives me the flexibility to flick mains power on and off to get the light on when the switch isn't where it should be. I wouldn't go through the effort of killing the existing switch unless I was fitting proper ZigBee light switches.
how smart has your home gone?
- Thread starter utajoker
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Having a legacy light switch for example in a lounge:-
1) Looks bad IMHO.
2) Risks the wrong light switch being used, thus screwing up the Hue setup.
If you can simply take off the existing switch, connect 1-2 wires (so the bulbs are constantly powered), and then place the Hue switch directly over/where the original switch was? Doesn't that sound better all round?
"an aweful lot of effort" - If the screw holes on the V2 switch are 6cm apart (which I estimate they are), chances are the above is 5 minutes of work. Unless I'm misunderstanding something.
I didn't mean to cause offence with my post so apologies if it did. I was just saying that the Phillips dimmer is inherently a portable device. To replace a physically attached light switch with something inherently portable seems like a good idea initially but I reckon will backfire the second someone decides to put it on their bedside table. It is a semi-permanent device by the virtue it detaches from the face plate.
If you are going through the effort (and yes it is clearly more effort by orders of magnitude, quote marks or not) of replacing physical switches there are much more professional options available, such as the Lightwave or Xiaomi Mijia.
You are basically taking a sledgehammer to the problem but then solving it with, I dunno, a watermelon or something. Get something that is intended for the job instead of retrofitting a stick on fascia around a gaping hole in the wall that you have joined with a junction box lol.
Hey, no offence, so no apology reqired
I see two options as regards my existing dimmer switch on the wall...
Keep existing switch:-
- So we have two switches on the wall, which IMHO looks messy, and risks the wrong switch being used.
Replace existing switch:-
- Removed legace dimmer.
- Hardwire wirings.
- Place Hue Dimmer directly over the light socket - The Hue fascia should perfectly screw into the existing light switch socket and perfectly cover it from my estimates?
Both outcomes surely give you the same outcome, but the latter doesn't have the downsides? At the cost of 5 minutes assuming it works as I understand/suggest?
It's entirely possible I'm overlooking something as I have next to no experience of Hue.
EDIT: With my notion the V2 can cover an existing light switch socket, and ideally even screw over it, this article says about the V2, "...because it means that the dimmer switch should completely cover the standard EU in-wall boxes. The base plate of the previous dimmer switch was too narrow for this." - https://hueblog.com/2020/12/21/philips-hue-dimmer-switch-new-generation-gets-more-modern/
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The back plate you get in the box is a 3M sticker. You'll be going custom if you want something that screws into the existing back box. They are really of subjective quality though, and very limited choice if you want it to match up with your other sockets. Not all of them look aweful though.Hey, no offence, so no apology reqired
I see two options as regards my existing dimmer switch on the wall...
Keep existing switch:-
- So we have two switches on the wall, which IMHO looks messy, and risks the wrong switch being used.
Replace existing switch:-
- Removed legace dimmer.
- Hardwire wirings.
- Place Hue Dimmer directly over the light socket - The Hue fascia should perfectly screw into the existing light switch socket and perfectly cover it from my estimates?
Both outcomes surely give you the same outcome, but the latter doesn't have the downsides? At the cost of 5 minutes assuming it works as I understand/suggest?
It's entirely possible I'm overlooking something as I have next to no experience of Hue.
EDIT: With my notion the V2 can cover an existing light switch socket, and ideally even screw over it, this article says about the V2, "...because it means that the dimmer switch should completely cover the standard EU in-wall boxes. The base plate of the previous dimmer switch was too narrow for this." - https://hueblog.com/2020/12/21/philips-hue-dimmer-switch-new-generation-gets-more-modern/
Agree on it looking a tiny bit messy next to a regular wall switch, I'm not totally satisfied myself - but the 'right' solution is a ZigBee switch module (use your existing switches if you have neutral and a deep enough back box) or a LightWave (still a bit expensive).
Edit: It is also EU sizing; IIRC UK sockets are almost 90mm.
From what I can see with the V2 dimmer, they've made it wider than the V1 just so it CAN cover a standard (UK/EU) wall box with it (as I mentioned in my edit above). The screw holes in the rear face also appear to be 6cm apart, which matches the screw holes of a wall box, so no 3m tape necessary.
My dimmer switch is approx 82mm square. It screws via two screws 6cm part into the metal wall box which is about 72mm square. I'm struggling to see why the 80mm wide V2 Hue Dimmer, with screw holes seeming 6cm apart, wont just perfect screw into that wall box to perfectly cover it, thus perfectly replacing the current dimmer switch?
To my mind, again, they made the V2 1cm wider, just for this reason?
Which screw holes are you referencing? Hue Switch isn't designed to be a switch replacement.
For reference, the screw holes in the rear of the Hue's mounding plate - See 3ms32 here - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A1zGDoGQlYI&t=3m32s
Those screw holes to my estimate are 6cm apart.
So quite simply:-
1) Take my dimmer switch out.
2) Hardwire the wires in the existing light box togethor.
3) Screw over the Hue V2 dimmer plate/switch over the now unused socket hole....
4) Replace all GU10 on the circuit with Hue GU10s.
Done...
It's exactly what this fellow has done here (with a V1), except he stuck it over his redundent light switch hole, rather than screwing it in - See 11m10s - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0eQFS0UYbr4&t=11m10s
Didn't know about the screw holes in the backplate, so something learned there! I use the 3M as previously mentioned.
Seems much closer to a proper job admittedly. Best of luck.
Edit: Just saw your other thread and you are talking about GU10 bulbs. I would definitely not be bridging the switch for permanent live with GU10s lol. Pain to change as it is without having juice going through it. I guess you could isolate at the breaker but whatevs.
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Yeh, I'd just turn the fuse off if it means a neat/easy finish.
And when I have the lounge/dining room done/rewired, I can put a dedicate hidden switch in for them etc...
I'm the same, ask the question couple above you. Loved the look of the august and it had the main functionality I was after - ability to lock and unlock door (or see the current status) remotely. However after doing some research it doesn't work on multi point lock doors.
Main function with multi lock doors is the deadbolt cannot be engaged until handle is lifted upwards... therefore rendering any kind of remote function rather pointless.
If you have a multipoint lock your options are limited to the Yale Conexis L1 as far as I am aware.
Either that are changing the style door you have.
I can confirm the Hue Dimmer V2 perfectly screws over/into an existing light switch socket as discussed above.
Does it not warn you when batteries are getting low? Or do they just run out?
Keep a stack of spare batteries.
Can't speak for the v2 but the v1 certainly doesn't report battery life. It is just a button style thing - I had it sat in a drawer for a year (you need a Hue hub and I was trying to just get away with a ZigBee Alexa) and it was dead when I finally got a Hue Hub a year later on. Not sure how long they last tbh.
Technically they do. I don't think Hue exposes it via its app, but i can pull the battery status with Home Assistant.
I've created a battery monitoring page to track all the batteries in my various sensors:
I could set up an automation to do anything i wanted once the battery level dips below a certain %:
- Send a notification to my phone
- Email me
- Change light bulbs to a different colour
- Get Google Home to announce it over the speakers ("Your hallway switch battery life is below 10%")
...Anything that has an action i could use
Yeah it is a very odd selection of things it reports - I have a log of what button was pressed last, and when - but not battery life!Technically they do. I don't think Hue exposes it via its app, but i can pull the battery status with Home Assistant.
I've created a battery monitoring page to track all the batteries in my various sensors:
I could set up an automation to do anything i wanted once the battery level dips below a certain %:
- Send a notification to my phone
- Email me
- Change light bulbs to a different colour
- Get Google Home to announce it over the speakers ("Your hallway switch battery life is below 10%")
...Anything that has an action i could use
Yep, if you want to create a more advanced smart home, you need to expose it to a smart home hub.
Caporegime
Are there any smart bulbs that just work with the Alexa app? i.e. no extra hub, no extra app required?
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Smart bulbs £70 for a pair.
Normal LED bulbs £13 for 6.
I got two packs of the latter instead.
And unsyncronized £10 moon lamps next to my bed.
They look bad on random flashy mode
Normal LED bulbs £13 for 6.
I got two packs of the latter instead.
And unsyncronized £10 moon lamps next to my bed.
They look bad on random flashy mode