Jesus how big is your house ?
I had 18 CAT6 ports in my previous house and the guys running the cable were laughing at me asking if I was running a data centre.
Current house although bigger will likely have less ports as wifi will run most things and a single Unifi AP is running whole house wifi (in fairness haven't thorough tested outdoor coverage yet)
Also, how do you deactivate the motion sensor automatically when you are on your PC ? this sounds very useful.
When I built the house (there's a thread on here) I flooded the property with Cat 6 for future proofing. I started on the principle that each TV would need a 4-way socket behind it (2 for HD over ethernet) and 2 for data. Then I tried to cover each room in the same basic layout by having a 2-way socket on the near, middle and far end of each wall (both sides) as I wasn't entirely sure on the layout AND I ran a cable to the ceiling of each room for IR blasters.
Having a vision where all the electronic devices would be situated under the stairs and controlled remotely meant I needed a lot of options. The crazy part was, I hadn't even though about proper Wi-Fi coverage during the build. I ran it for ages off a centrally-positoned wifi router
However, to anyone thinking of doing the same (and I did this for my parents when they built) I used the spare cabling in the ceilings to have an access point close enough to each room for the signal to be epic everywhere. I actually have 3x UniFi access points internally and 1x UniFi access point on a pole by the Sky Dish for external areas.
Obviously, things have moved on since I built (as mentioned I've ditched the IR system and use the ceiling cables for wi-fi access points, I now use HDbaseT to pump 4k video over a single cat 6) and gone are the two landlines which I initially patched over the network cable (each with a possible max of 4 possible handsets) so that was a 8-way patch bay in itself that I no longer use. My bottleneck now is the 24 port switch as I've maxed that out with wired devices!
Thankfully I pulled and terminated the cables myself during the first-fix stage (during that winter in 2010 where we had a load of snow), so I pretty much had time to do things how I wanted and I didn't have anyone else to judge... except the electrician that questioned which I wanted a 32A supply under the stairs
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This is the script/automation that I've sent up in the Apple Home app. It's a simple if statement that exits the shortcut if the "PC" (a philips smart plug I called PC) is turned on. I trigger the smart plug by scanning a NFC tag that I've attached to the edge of the desk near the PC, so that when I sit down (and scan) the motion detection is turned off. Unfortunately, the iOS shortcuts app can't use power draw as a variable as I initially looked in to seeing if I could trigger the automation based on the power draw of the plug, but no dice.
