How to attach rawlplug to a gap between tiles?

Adam · 1 Jan 2017 at 13:38

Following on from this thread her (https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18744241) I attempted the suggestions made but it turned out to be a disaster. All my fault but first of all I flooded the bathroom with a schoolboy error and then I found there wasn't enough tile for me to attach the adapters.

As you can see whoever put the shower in bodged it big time with cementing the pipes in place rather than using a fitting kit that I have now.

https://imgur.com/a/oeqIU

While it looks in the pictures that there is room for the adapters to attach to the tile, when the adapters are fitted to the pipe (I went back to the old adapters once I ran in to this issue) I can't get a rawlplug in as it would be going in to the space between the pipe and tile.

I could probably get by with one screw in each adapter but I want to do it properly. I bought some rapid setting cement from wickes and was going to set the rawlplug in to the cement it dries. I guess in an ideal world whoever put this in shouldn't have taken so much tile away.

Any suggestions that I might have overlooked?

DXP55 · 1 Jan 2017 at 14:14

I hate those sort of job's --Total PITA.

Can you get a small slither of wood up behind where the screw will go - wide enough to take a screw - If so stick it to back of tile with mastic glue - Once set drill your tile then drill pilot hole in wood and just use a screw. Or drill tile first then stick wood on back

Failing that I have used a wall plug in tile with nothing behind and it will hold providing you don't screw it up like a madman.

Other option is try a squeeze up plug designed for plaster board.

Good luck - glad it's not me anymore

Adam · 1 Jan 2017 at 15:37

Yes it didn't go to plan, the flood damage wasn't as bad as it looked once the carpet and underlay dried out in the bathroom. Oops!

I might be able to get a piece of wood in, although it might not be possible due to the cavity not being deep so I may not be able to maneuver it in. The other side is my bedroom (this is the ensuite). I see the logic in that.

I'm not sure I understand your other suggestion. Are you suggesting that I can wedge the 2nd rawlplug against the tile edge rather than in to a tile if I don't do it up too tightly? That could work I guess as long as it lines up with the edge.

Caged · 1 Jan 2017 at 16:29

Could you not find a tile that is close enough to the ones you have already and then smash the existing tile out to get better access? Would let you remedy the awful way it's been cut to get the pipes through at well.

LOAM · 1 Jan 2017 at 16:38

Take the tile out completely and fix it properly and then patch it with some matching mosaics. If you want to make it look considered then replace an entire vertical band of tiles that define where the shower is.

acake · 1 Jan 2017 at 16:42

LOAM said:
Take the tile out completely and fix it properly and then patch it with some matching mosaics. If you want to make it look considered then replace an entire vertical band of tiles that define where the shower is.

this is the best ideal do a proper job also fit some wood in behind to screw in to its more work but in the long run iit will be better

Adam · 2 Jan 2017 at 21:03

Removing the tiles isn't really an option for me although I appreciate it's the best way of doing it. It's possible I might be able to remove a hand size patch of plasterboard in the cupboard to get my hand in to fix a batton with some glue. Other than that I'll have to try some of the other suggestions.

Thanks for the help!

Abyss · 3 Jan 2017 at 02:27

If you can't get anything in behind I'd be tempted to try a butterfly fixing / spring toggle. Push it through the hole and the legs should be wide enough to hold in place behind the tiles.

horseunderwater · 3 Jan 2017 at 04:47

you have carpet in your bathroom ?

Adam · 23 Jan 2017 at 10:32

Well this turned in to a horrible job. Thank you to Abyss for your spring toggle suggestion, it worked a treat.

It didn't quite go to plan though as the pipe in the wall was weeping. Not a lot, but enough for it to drip and create a puddle on the floor when I was testing the shower. I checked my fitting 4/5 times and applied PTFE/LSX as I couldn't see where it was leaking from.

Here's what I ended up with:

I had to cut out the plasterboard from the room behind (I'll neaten it and take it back to the joist to make it easier to reboard it) to get access to the nut. There was no other way to get access unfortunately.

Note how a huge channel of plasterboard is missing from the tile, looks like they have either had a leak previously or for some reason it was removed when it was tiled (perhaps to get to the pipe?).

I moved in nearly 3 years ago and we haven't used this shower once as the pressure was poor but now we have an unvented cylinder which will allow us to use this.

I also siliconed the bath and noticed a leak under the bath waste so I'll replace that as well.

Abyss · 23 Jan 2017 at 12:30

Adam said:
Well this turned in to a horrible job. Thank you to Abyss for your spring toggle suggestion, it worked a treat.

It didn't quite go to plan though as the pipe in the wall was weeping. Not a lot, but enough for it to drip and create a puddle on the floor when I was testing the shower. I checked my fitting 4/5 times and applied PTFE/LSX as I couldn't see where it was leaking from.

Here's what I ended up with:

I had to cut out the plasterboard from the room behind (I'll neaten it and take it back to the joist to make it easier to reboard it) to get access to the nut. There was no other way to get access unfortunately.

Note how a huge channel of plasterboard is missing from the tile, looks like they have either had a leak previously or for some reason it was removed when it was tiled (perhaps to get to the pipe?).

I moved in nearly 3 years ago and we haven't used this shower once as the pressure was poor but now we have an unvented cylinder which will allow us to use this.

I also siliconed the bath and noticed a leak under the bath waste so I'll replace that as well.

No problem. Always frustrating when a job turns out to be far bigger than expected!

I'd personally fit a pattress over the hole for now and monitor it over the coming weeks/months. A piece of MDF with routed edges will look fairly tidy and will allow you to be confident there is no leak before plastering it back up.

I'd also recommend getting a drywall/jab saw. £1.99 from screwfix and make a really neat job of cutting back plasterboard.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/drywall-s...Ol32cERBYPxcurGLzQqT_oKLSXipJRWQx-xoCkivw_wcB

Adam · 23 Jan 2017 at 13:02

Abyss said:
No problem. Always frustrating when a job turns out to be far bigger than expected!

I'd personally fit a pattress over the hole for now and monitor it over the coming weeks/months. A piece of MDF with routed edges will look fairly tidy and will allow you to be confident there is no leak before plastering it back up.

I'd also recommend getting a drywall/jab saw. £1.99 from screwfix and make a really neat job of cutting back plasterboard.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/drywall-s...Ol32cERBYPxcurGLzQqT_oKLSXipJRWQx-xoCkivw_wcB

Believe it or not, that's what I used to make the hole! It was one of those which got bigger and bigger as I tried to get enough leverage on the nut.

I'm confident it will look fine once it's all sorted. Like you said I need to monitor it for a while. Might even have to make the hole bigger if the fitting needs to be replaced.