Building a lean to greenhouse

Soldato
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So that's what I need to do then.
Its a good idea but not easy, especially if its your first time using a router. My greenhouse is a combination of the batten idea in which one side is profiled(rebated) for the glass to sit into and then the 2 timbers are joined together to create a solid fit and routed channels. Its currently in pieces so I just had a look at it.
 
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How would glass have been mounted in a wooden greenhouse? Beading.

I chose CLS because I can apply wood preserver and stain myself. It was twice as much at least to buy sawn treated timber. But whether I bought CLS or pressure treated timber I'd still have had the same problem with how to mount the panels.

Im accused of over complicating it when all I'm trying to do is replicate what you can get for £60 on Amazon...those have inset panels not surface mounted ones.

The reason I'm building it myself is because I need it to fit the space I have available.

You can get UPVC channels in a variety of colours or aluminium to slot the panels into and fix them yo the framing with clear filler. A few spots of filler will stop the polycarbonate bring blown or sucked out as well.
 
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I'll have to buy the router or attempt to make a groove with a drill and hand chisel (drill a straight line of 6mm holes 10mm deep all the way along each piece of timber, and then use the chisel to clean it up and make it a continuous groove).

Not sure how long a manual approach would take. Obviously a router is better (more accurate, faster) and if I would use it again in future it might be worth having one. Not sure I will though.

Do you think a palm router or full size router is better for this? I will need to cut the groove in the centre of the 38mm edge of my timber, so not a lot of room for it to rest on.
A palm router would probably do it if it has a guide to keep you straight but you will need some kind of work bench or workmate type thing to clamp it in to and to use as the straight edge.

I know you don't want to hear it but
It really would be easier to make the frame, surface mount the polycarbonate and then use the 10mm x 38mm strips of wood Rueben Klang referenced to trim the sides and window frame design on the outside.
It would look almost the same from a foot away.
 
Soldato
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I know you don't want to hear it but
It really would be easier to make the frame, surface mount the polycarbonate and then use the 10mm x 38mm strips of wood Rueben Klang referenced to trim the sides and window frame design on the outside.
It would look almost the same from a foot away.

I think this is adding a lot of extra wood, cutting, screws/pins. I would have to frame the left side, right side, two front doors and the lid. Surely it's simpler and neater to groove the timbers and slot the panels in?
 
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I think this is adding a lot of extra wood, cutting, screws/pins. I would have to frame the left side, right side, two front doors and the lid. Surely it's simpler and neater to groove the timbers and slot the panels in?
It is but against the cost of a router and work bench it would probably be a lot cheaper.
Only you know which one is more cost effective for you and which one suits your abilities more
 
Soldato
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I'm going to get the palm router. Hopefully will be useful tool to have in the future.

There are some budget models on Amazon which all appear to be the same Chinese design. Or I could spend a bit more for a brand.
 
Soldato
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Ive gone for the Katsu palm router off Amazon - £44. Seems to get decent reviews and is a clone of a Makita model.

Now need to find the right bit. Seems there is either a choice of standalone good quality bits but seem expensive, or a cheap bit set which are prone to breaking. Nothing in the middle it seems.

I need a 5mm ish straight cut bit. Screwfix have a Bosch 4.8mm at £15. Seems a lot for one bit but if thats the going rate? Better to get a single bit than a set I'll never use most of?
 
Soldato
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it costs about £5 for a 5mm TCT bit on fleabay,make sure you get the right size shank i.e. 1/4 or 1/2 or 6mm or 8mm etc :)
And watch your fingers !
Routers are dangerous in the hands of `amateurs` :)
 
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Soldato
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PXL-20240421-135418059.jpg


PXL-20240421-135350763.jpg


Done one side. It's slow going as I'm being careful being the first time routering. But it's working nicely.
 
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Looks good, can you like what you actually bought?

I have mainly bosch pro stuff but some are so expensive I haven't got a router or multitool to match.
Tempted to get similar to what you used there and have a play.

You want to fill the gaps as well, just something like scaff net or similar to avoid slugs getting in.
They love greenhouses as typically damp places.
 
Soldato
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Looks good, can you like what you actually bought?

I have mainly bosch pro stuff but some are so expensive I haven't got a router or multitool to match.
Tempted to get similar to what you used there and have a play.

You want to fill the gaps as well, just something like scaff net or similar to avoid slugs getting in.
They love greenhouses as typically damp places.

I got the Katsu palm router off Amazon, £43.

Good idea on filling gaps. I'm not that happy with it at the moment, because the ground isn't level even across that small area, there is a gap under the frame which I had to pack with some timber offcuts just to level up the frame. There are still gaps under, it doesn't sit flush on the floor across its whole width due to these packers. Would you tack the netting to the inside frame around the edges?

I like how the inset polycarbonate panels have come out, but it was a bit awkward to assemble because I had to assemble the frame around the panels because they are inset on all four sides. I butt jointed the frame and secured with screws which again was a bit awkward, would have been nicer to try some dowels or half lap joints instead for a better finish.

And I don't have a workbench so I had to do all the work on the patio surface. Couple of slip ups with the router because of this. Oh also with the router I initially grooved using a 4.8mm bit for the 4mm panels. But this was too snug and I couldn't assemble the frame around the panels due to lack of clearance. So I had to widen the groove a bit more which was extra hassle. Should have gone for a slightly wider groove from the outset.
 
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Soldato
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Has anyone got any experience with cranked hinges? At the moment the doors to my greenhouse will sit within the front of the frame as you can see by my image. With a standard hinge I think they will open 180 degrees but no further as the post will be in the way. Is it possible to get the left hand door to rotate 270 degrees, i.e back against the left hand side of the greenhouse? Ive been looking to see if there is a hinge type which will allow it and have come across cranked hinges but its not clear what the opening movement would be.
 
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