How to brew your own beer
- Thread starter shr3k
- Start date
Just make sure you santise properly and it's very hard to go wrong after that. Remember though once the beer has fermented it's very important to make sure you don't aerate the beer by allowing it to splash.
When transferring whether it's bottles or a barrel make sure the tube touches the bottom of the container.
Remember they also have to be left in a warm place for a few days after capping them, it is secondary fermentation after all, which as I've mentioned before is best achieved at 18-23C
Nothing wrong with that starter kit, you can buy a new cap for the barrel that will allow you to inject CO2 using CO2 bulbs
Brew belt would be a good idea if you can't control the temp of the room seperately. I'm considering getting one myself as having beer fermenting on a carpet aint the best of ideas
The CO2 cap is an extra 15-20 (I'd get a bulb for pressure testing water before putting in the beer!).
I noticed that they sell the same kit without the barrel and beer kit. I just like the look of the keg - it seems a little more sturdy.
The cap on the brewmaster barrel takes a different sort of CO2 system, I think it's probably going to be a Hambleton Bard S30 CO2 canister, which you can only get from a local homebrew shop, as they don't allow them in the post.
If you don't have a homebrew shop then you can get a soda stream CO2 canister and an adapter that allows it to fit the valve.
Yup - remember reading about that.
http://www.brew-it-yourself.co.uk/shop/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=30_45&products_id=47
So this means it doesn't require S30s. Only thing is that sparklets are smaller bulbs but it'll do.
http://www.brew-it-yourself.co.uk/shop/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=30_45&products_id=47
So this means it doesn't require S30s. Only thing is that sparklets are smaller bulbs but it'll do.
Yup, it ends up considerably more expensive that way though.
A S30 canister costs £16 initially and then about £4 for a refill and lasts ages, whereas you have no choice but to use the whole of one of the bulbs.
best way to prime is into a second FB,
1. Dissolve your priming sugar into half a bowl of boiling water, micro wave it back to boiling then pour it into the second FB (fermenting bucket)
2. Using some draw off tube on the first bucket (long enough to reach the bottom of the second bucket) tap and empty the contents into the second bucket.
3. Use a bottle valve to bottle HERE
that's it, half as much hassle as getting your priming measurements correct in each bottle.
Priming calculations can be found here http://tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html
I really think kits use generic instructions as everyone ive done has always said about 80g of sugar to prime with regardless of if its a stout or lager.
Ive stopped kits now though, 10g brewery was delivered last week, just waiting on my bro inlaw to complete my copper cooler and its on.
LOAM
1. Dissolve your priming sugar into half a bowl of boiling water, micro wave it back to boiling then pour it into the second FB (fermenting bucket)
2. Using some draw off tube on the first bucket (long enough to reach the bottom of the second bucket) tap and empty the contents into the second bucket.
3. Use a bottle valve to bottle HERE
that's it, half as much hassle as getting your priming measurements correct in each bottle.
Priming calculations can be found here http://tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html
I really think kits use generic instructions as everyone ive done has always said about 80g of sugar to prime with regardless of if its a stout or lager.
Ive stopped kits now though, 10g brewery was delivered last week, just waiting on my bro inlaw to complete my copper cooler and its on.
LOAM
Last edited:
Last edited:
ive got no idea what your talking about
yeah its a handy on-line calc, slightly frightening though when it specifies about 260g of sugar for a Wheat beer prime and the kits say 80g, there was no wonder it was on the flat side tbh.
yeah its a handy on-line calc, slightly frightening though when it specifies about 260g of sugar for a Wheat beer prime and the kits say 80g, there was no wonder it was on the flat side tbh.
Last edited:
Ok kit's arrived 
Now the standard 'kit' is a mix it all into the keg and then leave for 14 days however I've read lots about this isn't ideal (should be longer). So I've got a 5gallon FV along with a heat belt. I've also bought more steriliser.
My plan is this (can someone verify this):
a) Sterilise initial use bits
b) Fit FV with heat belt
c) Mix kit (including yeast) into the FV rather than the keg.
d) Ferment for 7-14 days in the FV.
e) Sterilise keg and bits for the transfer.
f) Syphon the brew into the keg.
g) Seal keg and then keep for the remainder of it's life time (should be quite sort with new years party!). I also have a CO2 bulb for when the keg gets half empty.
So any faults in that lot?
Is it worth priming the keg with sugar as this will be a longer duration?
My concern is that the FV does not have an airlock - it's a plastic one with a lid. This is my main worry.. but I'm assuming as it's not got a hole that it will become pressurised as a result.
Now the standard 'kit' is a mix it all into the keg and then leave for 14 days however I've read lots about this isn't ideal (should be longer). So I've got a 5gallon FV along with a heat belt. I've also bought more steriliser.
My plan is this (can someone verify this):
a) Sterilise initial use bits
b) Fit FV with heat belt
c) Mix kit (including yeast) into the FV rather than the keg.
d) Ferment for 7-14 days in the FV.
e) Sterilise keg and bits for the transfer.
f) Syphon the brew into the keg.
g) Seal keg and then keep for the remainder of it's life time (should be quite sort with new years party!). I also have a CO2 bulb for when the keg gets half empty.
So any faults in that lot?
Is it worth priming the keg with sugar as this will be a longer duration?
My concern is that the FV does not have an airlock - it's a plastic one with a lid. This is my main worry.. but I'm assuming as it's not got a hole that it will become pressurised as a result.
Last edited:
Not sure why you'd want to ferment it in the keg, what with fermentation producing CO2.
Also the FV is not designed to be a pressurised vessel, if you seal the lid on with no hole it WILL blow off. Just cut a hole with a circular saw and shove a rubber bung and airlock in it, nice and easy
)
Also i've come across some new info recently regarding priming, if you're going to be putting the beer in the keg at about 7 days then there's actually no need to prime the keg as it will continue to produce some CO2 and will pressurise by itself.
Also the FV is not designed to be a pressurised vessel, if you seal the lid on with no hole it WILL blow off. Just cut a hole with a circular saw and shove a rubber bung and airlock in it, nice and easy
)Also i've come across some new info recently regarding priming, if you're going to be putting the beer in the keg at about 7 days then there's actually no need to prime the keg as it will continue to produce some CO2 and will pressurise by itself.
The keg is the only vessel that comes standard with the kit. The keg has a excess pressure valve (two way) at the top but the who thing seems a little too beginner for me.
Also the keg is a top tap king keg hence it leaves the crud at the bottom. Although I will have a car journey and so that would soon become redistributed! The additional FV step would result in the crud being left behind (or at least the majority) and lead to a cleaner pint.
Effectively the *kit* instructions are:
a) sterilise
b) add 6 pints of hot water + contents of the two tins into the keg
c) add remaining volume of cold water
d) add yeast
e) leave for 14 days
f) drink beer.
Some how I don't entirely trust these..
Also the FV is not designed to be a pressurised vessel, if you seal the lid on with no hole it WILL blow off. Just cut a hole with a circular saw and shove a rubber bung and airlock in it, nice and easy
That's what I had in mind and I could see that CO2 and no release mechanism would result in a pop! I'll get myself an airlock.
Ok, that sounds good - I do want some small bubbles in the final result so it's not entirely flat.
Actually they do this:
http://www.brew-it-yourself.co.uk/forum/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2914
With a loose FV lid.. so they loose all the CO2 and then transfer after 9 days into a primed keg. Leaving for 4-6 weeks.
So my new years party is a little close..
http://www.brew-it-yourself.co.uk/forum/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2914
With a loose FV lid.. so they loose all the CO2 and then transfer after 9 days into a primed keg. Leaving for 4-6 weeks.
So my new years party is a little close..
I've never used an airlock, not that there's any reason not to. I just leave the lid on sealed about 90% of the way round so the CO2 can escape (usually with some of the head down side of the FV, so stand it on a newspaper if indoors).
That's a good tip - it'll be sat on the kitchen table!
I'll do this tonight. The only bit I'm missing is the Vaseline for the keg seals so I can get that during the week at some point.
I think it's going to take 1-2 hours cleaning then I can get it fermenting. I need to get it kicked off asap. If this was mid november I'd have more time :/
(I'm hoping these experiences will help other starters
)
Just rest the lid on top; it'll be fine. The initially fermentation will fill the volume above the fermenting beer with CO2 and keep it from getting infected. Airlocks are more important in making wine, or if you want a long secondary.
only pro's get infections, you can practically wash the dog in it and still be fine (don't actually wash the dog), IMHO initial sterilisation is the most important, Do not use the rough part of a sponge (scourer) when cleaning either, it will mark the plastic allowing bacteria a place to hide.
My 2 cats are very interested in the foam that flows down the side
My 2 cats are very interested in the foam that flows down the side
Last edited:
Phase one complete It's now in the lap of the gods! Took about two hours.
First experience - you need about 3-5 towels to cope with floor splashes. Took my time to go through and sterilise and rinse the FV, take apart the tap, etc.
I warmed the extract as per the guide - a good step as the extract is very much like thick sirup and used one of the boiling waters to rinse out the extract cans.. smells interesting too
After the cold water I've added the yeast with one final stir...
Now to twiddle my thumbs
It's now in the lap of the gods! Took about two hours.First experience - you need about 3-5 towels to cope with floor splashes. Took my time to go through and sterilise and rinse the FV, take apart the tap, etc.
I warmed the extract as per the guide - a good step as the extract is very much like thick sirup and used one of the boiling waters to rinse out the extract cans.. smells interesting too
After the cold water I've added the yeast with one final stir...
Now to twiddle my thumbs