How to tap/thread a hole?

Yes that tap should be fine so long as you don't need the thread to go to the very bottom.

The ratchet tap handle you linked is great, so long as you have the room to use it.
 
Craterloads said:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Unified-U...013?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2c54a47cc5

Just to double check, this bit is OK, says something about lead?
Click to expand...

In terminology of tapping there are 3 types of taps you can get.

Bottom taps - used for tapping the bottom of a hole with no exit point.

Second taps (Second lead) - used for starting the hole but also for the threads down the entire run of the tapped hole. Great for hand tapping.

Taper taps - used for starting the hole in tougher materials as they taper towards cutting part that cuts the thread.


So the tap you've found is a second tap which is great for tapping through an entire hole, even more so with a hand tap. You shouldn't have any problems.
 
Last edited:
Fuzz said:
Nope, you need a first (or starting), not a second.

There are three taps used
Starting (actually called a taper)
Second
Finishing or bottom

As long as you have the clearance / depth to get the first/starting tap all the way in then don'bother with the others, the screw will fit fine.
Click to expand...

I always thought if the hole isn't blind (A blind hole is a hole with no exit) and it has pre-drilled you could use a second tap? As it has enough of a taper to enter the hole and begin tapping.

I'm talking about tapping on soft material like aluminum here, as stronger material I switch out to a taper tap.

Craterloads said:
So what is it lol

One person says I need a first other saying a second is great!!
Click to expand...

It won't hurt using a first tap as you'll get the same result. A tapped hole. However I've always just used a second when working with alu.

As 6-32 isn't metric and they are rather harder to find, if you can find a first (taper tap) go for it. If not you shouldn't run into any trouble with a second.
 
Last edited:
To do the job correctly, you need all three taps...

They all do different jobs (I know, it's a tap what more can it do...) Starter to start the proccess easier, Second to get the threads in and a finisher to finish off the tap, so the screw can go in by finger, most don't use a finishing tap, that's why you need a ratchet/screwdriver/spanner to even get the bolt/screw/whatever in...
 
Traffic_Warden said:
To do the job correctly, you need all three taps...

They all do different jobs (I know, it's a tap what more can it do...) Starter to start the proccess easier, Second to get the threads in and a finisher to finish off the tap, so the screw can go in by finger, most don't use a finishing tap, that's why you need a ratchet/screwdriver/spanner to even get the bolt/screw/whatever in...
Click to expand...

Of course but for screws in a pc case, and the fact you are trying to buy an imperial tap. I wouldn't say it's worth the expense.

That is unless the OP want's a pristinely tapped hole in 2.5mm aluminum.
 
Ive just been forcing screws in with a screw driver just fine, so cheap and cheerful second tap it is. Surely will be better than my previous efforts.
 
cypto said:
As 6/32 isn't metric and they are rather harder to find, if you can find a first (taper tap) go for it. If not you shouldn't run into any trouble with a second.
Click to expand...

A common size 6/32, UNC ( Unified National Coarse), easy to find.

HSS,(High Speed Steel) is preferable to Carbon steel taps.

http://www.engineering-supplies.com...p-set-of-3-/?gclid=CJWsxLiPu7wCFSvHtAodoHwAZw

If you haven't got a handle, you can use a cordless drill on a very low speed, setting the clutch to a low figure.
 
Last edited:
Well that's seem well priced including all 3 taps, £10 + £5 for handle, should do just fine then.

Start the tap with taper tap first

then go in with the second all the way through

And finally the bottom ( or don't I need this)
 
I use WD40 as a lubricant for tapping aluminum.

Such thin aluminum, could get with just a second tap I reckon.
 
Last edited:
For a noob I would suggest beginning with the starter tap. Much easier to get the threads going and especially so if you only have 2.5 mm to play with.

Yes you can use a second to start and yes it will work fine if you do it properly, but if you start off a bit wobbly then you haven't got much depth left for some decent thread.
Hence my suggestion of starting with the taper tap.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom