How would you build this? (Indoor cube storage thing)

Yeah, the plan was always to cover the top/side in wood (the other side will be up against the wall). Covering the front isn't a bad idea actually to hide the joins, although as mentioned above, if i'm painting them anyway i could just use filler for that anyway.

Think i'm stuck between making my own and buying these Kallax units.

Making my own is a fairly fun project which i'd enjoy doing, plus i could configure things slightly differently, but at the same time i've loads of other stuff to do around the house and not sure when i'll get chance!
 
I'd make my own, given time.

The kallax units are a really practical and cheap solution though, and I'll be honest even though I hate the look of them they fit stuff well. We've got them in a few rooms with various setups internally. The built in shelves, boxes, just open, etc.
 
Now, thinking of the wood for the top/sides. I don't know why but i'm leaning away from standard redwood, even when stained i never think it looks brilliant.

Just had a quote for European Oak of £360. Also had one of those places which does reclaimed pine shelves who can do it for me and that's come in at £300.

The oak i imagine would be heavy as hell so would put a lot of strain on the support structure. Plus would be real tricky to manouvre into place on my own.

Any thoughts on other wood options? Most of the wood in the room is quite dark.

This is our floor which is quite dark, but the doors are a more normal golden oak colour

7nOdWpM.jpg



Tv Unit - https://www.wayfair.co.uk/furniture/pdp/world-menagerie-tejas-ultra-large-sideboard-bmh1642.html


General house pics are in here
https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/threads/old-gatehouse-build-log.18810135/
 
Marv the shelf loads (individuall) are 13kgs so imagine it holds quite some weight, and i think thats just because the shelves are only in place with dowels
Unless you were adding hundreds of kgs I wouldnt worry about weight too much
You can google where people make beds from these units

Catpaw oak would be my choice :)
 
Yeah, it was more if i built it myself that i was more concerned about it's load bearing capabilities! I'm erring towards that as i could then make some sections wider than 34cm which could accommodate amplifiers etc

Oh wow, cat paw oak looks amazing. I'd never heard of that. I imagine it would look great with just a varnish over the top. I dread to think what it costs! Maybe i need to re-adjust my desire to have it 2" thick!
 
2" thick sounds very thick if you were using ply 3/4" (19mm) would probably be fine. unless you are seriously loading it. Have you used the sagulator to calculate the shelf droop for the spans and materials you're using? I used 25mm birch ply for 600mm spans and they are rock solid, if I was remaking I'd have gone for 3/4".

Also if you use solid wood for everything you will have trouble getting all the boards to colour match well, it is for this reason that high quality furniture has always used veneers unless heavily stained.
 
Sorry, i was meaning for the top/downstand in the real wood (brown bits in the paint drawing in the op). I plan for that to be in 2" thick wood

For the main structure i'm thinking probably 18mm ply/MDF doubled to 36mm, just because i like chunky design. Plus it doesn't really cost much more, it's the difference between £40 and £80 so i can live with that.
 
Marvt74 said:
Would i be best building the structure out of plywood/MDF and then using some real wood for face panels?
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Nope.
You'd be better off building a rail & stile frame out of real wood or.... if you can.... edge joint some boards to make the uprights an put the shelves in with housing joints. Even some basic pine 3x2 would be easy to work and cheaper than plywood. I wouldn't even wipe my arse with MDF.
The frame will take a lot of weight, especially if you use decent joints like mortice & tenons. You could even make most of this with stopped housing joints (or dadoes, if you're American). Either way, you can then top the frame with whatever slab of wood you prefer.

That's how I'd do it, but I'm a Real Wood and Hand Tool snob!! :D
 
Haha fair enough!

Maybe it's just the places i've used but whenever i buy redwood in these lengths there's always some twist to it and i can never get anything square :p
 
Marvt74 said:
Maybe it's just the places i've used but whenever i buy redwood in these lengths there's always some twist to it and i can never get anything square :p
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Even if you're not an absolute whizz at sharpening up a plane, it's surprisingly easy - It's just a bit of time and elbow grease, plus the patience versus a couple of passes with an expensive power tool you'll probably not use more than 3 times a year...
 
I try not to get snobby about woodworking because I'm a relative beginner but electric planes are for removing lots of material off the bottom of doors and the like. In my experience they only take 0.5+ mm cuts and just bruise the wood if you try anything less. Compared to a jack plane they are broadsword versus stiletto knife. I have recently bought an nice old Record jack plane for about £30 and it was hands down superior in every way to the piece of pewter crap Stanley were trying to pass off as a plane in B+Q for significantly more. I'm going to keep the Stanley one to show my kids what a piece of cheap modern mass produced crap looks like.
 
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