I found the Evo I was looking for. (V RS Content)

As for the op, what a beautiful V. My dad had a completely standard one for a while when they were probably around 4 years old. They are incredibly planted, definitely one of my favourites along with the VI.

What sort of power do you expect after the turbo change?

I had a white Evo 3 for a while but it was far from mint, I really wanted more power but they are expensive to get passed 300bhp.
 
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love the car!! but i'd hate to own it, its just to clean to use with any intent and if you were to do so then it will be quick to loose the sheen that makes it special.

No point owning an evo if you cant drive it like you stole it from time to time :D
 
As for the op, what a beautiful V. My dad had a completely standard one for a while when they were probably around 4 years old. They are incredibly planted, definitely one of my favourites along with the VI.

What sort of power do you expect after the turbo change?

I had a white Evo 3 for a while but it was far from mint, I really wanted more power but they are expensive to get passed 300bhp.

Cheers, not much if any more power than the stock turbo. Although it should spool a little quicker. The reason I picked up the xi 80 series was primarily that I fully expect the original turbo to be on the tired side. The car should make around 340-360 at 1.4 to 1.5 bar "safely" and I'll probably leave it at for now. Next year I'll think about going a little bit further, but aiming for no more than a reliable 400. A lot of people tend to do what's known as a rod job, but on the 5s that isn't possible as the stock pistons have a different profile gudgeon pin area, so one would need to drop a set of pistons in, too.

I just think a car like this deserves more than a "drop in" job.

love the car!! but i'd hate to own it, its just to clean to use with any intent and if you were to do so then it will be quick to loose the sheen that makes it special.

No point owning an evo if you cant drive it like you stole it from time to time :D

Well I'm not going to daily it. With a bit of nous, it's easy to keep on top of these things! No wet weather, though :D.
 
Bit of an update:

Car is coming back soon from having some TLC. Hoping to get some miles on the engine before the weather takes a turn.

Bottom end rebuild, 2.0 long rod/pistons
GT266 cams
HKS RS intake pipe
Apexi FC ECU
New Coils/Plugs
ID1000 injectors
Hybrid 71HTA turbo - this is an Owen Developments variation of the Evo 9 turbo with a 71mm compressor section and 84mm compressor cover. In terms of output, the car should make around 450-470 at around 1.5 to 1.6 bar and I intend to leave it there.

6xcUBbh.jpg
 
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3, It’s had a fair bit of work since entering the country. Grades mean very little in my opinion. People put far too much weight on the opinion of one man and a sheet of paper. Although it does aid if any panels have been replaced.

Well its good it wasn't grade R or one with odometer tampering*! (*Hopefully)
 
It’s a good gauge especially if one translates the auction sheet whilst looking at the car, but that’s the key point - only a muppet would turn a car down on grade alone!

Well its about as consistent way looking at a car as you can get.

I've knocked back 3 cars, one odometer tampering (means value much lower than believed value), one was told 3.5 grade, I checked and it was grade R plus odometer tampering, again value would be almost half if it was sold as grade r with tampering.

Some people don't even ask for grade or check:confused:
 
Well its about as consistent way looking at a car as you can get.

I've knocked back 3 cars, one odometer tampering (means value much lower than believed value), one was told 3.5 grade, I checked and it was grade R plus odometer tampering, again value would be almost half if it was sold as grade r with tampering.

Some people don't even ask for grade or check:confused:

odometer tampering is easy to check with sites available these days. The issue with grades is a great deal of cars get graded R depending on the auction house. You need to translate the auction sheet and then inspect the car with the auction notes in mind. If you don’t translate the notes it doesn’t really tell you much of anything. Unless the history shows it’s been in a smash prior to entering the auction house lol :D
 
odometer tampering is easy to check with sites available these days. The issue with grades is a great deal of cars get graded R depending on the auction house. You need to translate the auction sheet and then inspect the car with the auction notes in mind. If you don’t translate the notes it doesn’t really tell you much of anything. Unless the history shows it’s been in a smash prior to entering the auction house lol :D

Yeah i always get the translated sheets, costs about 25 quid a go for the full auction history of any vin. With pics from old auctions too.

Catches a lot of sellers out who say they don't know or have sheets.
 
Yeah i always get the translated sheets, costs about 25 quid a go for the full auction history of any vin. With pics from old auctions too.

Catches a lot of sellers out who say they don't know or have sheets.
Those days are behind us now I think. It's great that they have these things but I'd always consider lower grades if they check out otherwise. These cars are becoming very hard to find. Cars with heavy modification make R grade, too. Odometre messing is a knobs game, though. There's no excusing those shinanigans.
 
Those days are behind us now I think. It's great that they have these things but I'd always consider lower grades if they check out otherwise. These cars are becoming very hard to find. Cars with heavy modification make R grade, too. Odometre messing is a knobs game, though. There's no excusing those shinanigans.

Oh yeah id always consider a car down to grade 3 but not pay grade 3.5 prices for a grade R car, thats just deception. As long as its honest and you know whats up and its priced in, if grade r expect grade r prices.

True good jdm cars are hard to find or more expensive, but if you buy a grade (not R) then it should hold value and go up.
 
Oh yeah id always consider a car down to grade 3 but not pay grade 3.5 prices for a grade R car, thats just deception. As long as its honest and you know whats up and its priced in, if grade r expect grade r prices.

True good jdm cars are hard to find or more expensive, but if you buy a grade (not R) then it should hold value and go up.

well it sounds like you’ve learnt a hard lesson ;).

At the end of the day you’re either willing to pay for the best you can find for your money or you’re not. Just never buy blind.
 
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