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i7 6700K high stock core voltage?

Yep solid at 4.8, the max I've seen it go after delidding is 66c at 5.05 100%

I tried Kryonaut on a delidded 4790k and I saw honestly no difference in temperatures, if anything <5c drop under load, I may have had a bad chip though but couldn't ever get any lower, that ramped up to the mid 80s under load.

Conductonaut is great just need to be really careful that it only goes on the die and not trickle over onto the pcb. Putting it on the IHS under my AIO waterblock wasn't really necessary, Kryonaut would have been fine but it was all I had to hand and I'm incredibly happy with the results.

Though I do get itchy feet when I hit the absolute max with things I always want to get something else to push. But low voltage 4.8 can't complain at all :)

Tempting, I may give this a try when I have some time for a play. Does replacing the ISH TIM allow for lower voltage as well as thermals? I did some quick testing and benching a while back and could hit 4.7ghz on 1.45, maybe less, it's been a while, but I was running with XMP and have heard that can limit stability when overclocking. The 67k has a very bare PCB on the die side, doesn't it? Not much chance of a short. I also have some liquid metal pads for my GPUs, they may be good for direct core contact.
 
I'm not sure how thermals directly affect voltage other than giving you more headroom to crank the speeds / volts when overall temps are lower as expected.

Before delid I think it took 1.375 - 1.38 for 4.7 that was left for about 12 hours through aida64, it wouldn't even start testing anything with the volts any lower than that.

If you're either out of warranty or just happy to go ahead with the delid, personally I would say it's absolutely worth it in any instance if you're concerned about the temps.

And yes the PCB is practically bare under the IHS looks almost completely plain :)

I have XMP profile saved for 4.8 but I haven't tweaked my RAM at all yet, I have stability at a great clock speed and the difference in games between 2400 - 3000mhz is single digit fps games I'd rather not mess about with frequency / dimm volts and potentially destabilize the cpu :) That being said even when I did try and get my RAM boosted, it wouldn't boot past the bios splash screen on speeds/volts anything higher than stock, even when the cpu was on stock unfortunately
 
Your board is playing silly buggers if it's on auto. Is it flashed with the latest BIOS?

Only option is to play with offsets or manually fix the voltage.

Spiking to 1.44v under load is not ideal!

Yep latest BIOS 3301 from February.

I'm going to set it manually to around 1.2v and see what happens. It's a bit weird this motherboard though, I was after an ASRock board but it wasn't in stock when I came to order so I went for the Asus. I had to put the latest BIOS on because the case fans would sometimes not work on the older BIOS, but it's been ok since updating.
 
I'm not sure how thermals directly affect voltage other than giving you more headroom to crank the speeds / volts when overall temps are lower as expected.

Before delid I think it took 1.375 - 1.38 for 4.7 that was left for about 12 hours through aida64, it wouldn't even start testing anything with the volts any lower than that.

If you're either out of warranty or just happy to go ahead with the delid, personally I would say it's absolutely worth it in any instance if you're concerned about the temps.

And yes the PCB is practically bare under the IHS looks almost completely plain :)

I have XMP profile saved for 4.8 but I haven't tweaked my RAM at all yet, I have stability at a great clock speed and the difference in games between 2400 - 3000mhz is single digit fps games I'd rather not mess about with frequency / dimm volts and potentially destabilize the cpu :) That being said even when I did try and get my RAM boosted, it wouldn't boot past the bios splash screen on speeds/volts anything higher than stock, even when the cpu was on stock unfortunately

Cheers for that, the conductonaut looks marginally better than the liquid pro for the same cost. I'll see if I can track down a Rockit delid kit as that seems to be the only one that offers the functionality to relid. Will need to track down some kind of silicone sealant, to reseal, also. Should be a fun little project.

Yep latest BIOS 3301 from February.

I'm going to set it manually to around 1.2v and see what happens. It's a bit weird this motherboard though, I was after an ASRock board but it wasn't in stock when I came to order so I went for the Asus. I had to put the latest BIOS on because the case fans would sometimes not work on the older BIOS, but it's been ok since updating.


You can't really hurt anything, the only risk involved would be to any work you are doing that could be lost upon a crash, if you're just web browsing or gaming etc it's just a momentary inconvenience. Nip into bios after a crash and add 0.005v to the cpu, repeat if necessary and run a stress test to finalise.
 
Cheers for that, the conductonaut looks marginally better than the liquid pro for the same cost. I'll see if I can track down a Rockit delid kit as that seems to be the only one that offers the functionality to relid. Will need to track down some kind of silicone sealant, to reseal, also. Should be a fun little project.

I didn't bother re-gluing mine as I know I'll be replacing the liquid metal reasonably soon when I put loops in and move things around etc. the socket holds the IHS rock solid on its own.I'll re-glue it eventually, probably when I sell it on because I'm just itching to change builds and put a weird loop in that I'm constantly trying to design and revise.

Haven't used Rockit myself, I used the Die Mate v1 and was hoping for the v2 to come in soon as it has a little re-glue part on it but unfortunately they've been delayed again :(

Let us know how you get on and if you need any help :)
 
I didn't bother re-gluing mine as I know I'll be replacing the liquid metal reasonably soon when I put loops in and move things around etc. the socket holds the IHS rock solid on its own.I'll re-glue it eventually, probably when I sell it on because I'm just itching to change builds and put a weird loop in that I'm constantly trying to design and revise.

Haven't used Rockit myself, I used the Die Mate v1 and was hoping for the v2 to come in soon as it has a little re-glue part on it but unfortunately they've been delayed again :(

Let us know how you get on and if you need any help :)

Oh, it does! It didn't state so in the description but I can see what that little clamp is for now. I may just wait for that to come in. I'm in no rush, I have to sort my gfx cards before I give myself another problem :D Do you think it will be in stock within a month, say?
 
Yeah under gaming I noticed in CPU Z that the voltage was staying around about 1.4v (can't remember the exact figure) so it's a hell of a lot better assuming I don't have to crank it back up.
 
Yeah under gaming I noticed in CPU Z that the voltage was staying around about 1.4v (can't remember the exact figure) so it's a hell of a lot better assuming I don't have to crank it back up.

How are your temps now?

Hopefully. They were due yesterday but pushed back to early April I believe. I can't see myself delidding anything else any time soon but I want one just because :(

Same, I'll probably use this once, then use it as a paperweight, ha.
 
I've played a solid 2 hours of Just Cause 3 and temps maxed out at 71 degrees. What concerning me is that HWmonitor is saying maximum voltage to the CPU was 1.420v - how is this happening when I set it manually to 1.26v? Are the readings wrong?
 
I've played a solid 2 hours of Just Cause 3 and temps maxed out at 71 degrees. What concerning me is that HWmonitor is saying maximum voltage to the CPU was 1.420v - how is this happening when I set it manually to 1.26v? Are the readings wrong?

I did mention the LLC (load-Line Calibration) earlier, and turning it down (if it remains stable). That can be one cause for the Vcore shooting beyond what you've set, so worth playing with.
 
I did mention the LLC (load-Line Calibration) earlier, and turning it down (if it remains stable). That can be one cause for the Vcore shooting beyond what you've set, so worth playing with.

Sorry for ignoring your post!

It's becoming a bit of a chore now - one of the reasons I don't overclock is because I'm not interested in playing around with settings, yet that's exactly what I'm having to do here. I'd leave it as is but I just think 1.4v+ is way too high.
 
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