ICE time. Please help.

ironman · 16 Apr 2010 at 17:53

I think i'll just go for 1 quality sub then. I think i'll set a budget of £200, I obviously want quality as I can't stand distortion/bad sound. I've seen the RE subs are around the £300 mark brand new, what is the next best option? I guess I want the best for my price really. Also how do I determine what size sub enclosure is best, do I go for ported or sealed?

Edit: thanks iaind, i'll look into JL.

ironman · 16 Apr 2010 at 19:39

Just to let you know what i've ended up with:

Front: Focal K2 Power 165 KP 6.5" components
Rear: Rainbow CMX 265 5" components (seller chucked these in for only £60 more)
Amp: JBL GTO 5355 6 Channel
Sub: JL Audio 12W3v3 12"

With a box and tons of cabling that all adds up to £590 delivered which I don't think is too bad. I'm going to add an Alpine Double DIN touchscreen headunit too.

Does anyone recommend what sound insulation I should use?

ScoobyDoo, did you line the boot with insulation?

ScoobyDoo69 · 16 Apr 2010 at 19:45

No I didn't, and thus it rattles the spoiler and reg plate like a mofo. However, to add to the sound, drop the centre arm rest hole thingy

Participant · 16 Apr 2010 at 20:01

gurdas said:
Sub: JL Audio 12W3v3 12"

You say you have a 12W3v3, but what configuration are the voice coils? There are three versions: the 2, 4 and 8. You need to make sure the amp can operate properly with the impedance of the voice coils.

ironman · 16 Apr 2010 at 20:28

ScoobyDoo69 said:
No I didn't, and thus it rattles the spoiler and reg plate like a mofo. However, to add to the sound, drop the centre arm rest hole thingy

I'll make sure I insulate the boot then

Robbie G said:
You say you have a 12W3v3, but what configuration are the voice coils? There are three versions: the 2, 4 and 8. You need to make sure the amp can operate properly with the impedance of the voice coils.

Glad you brought that up actually, was going to ask them on Monday which one I should go for before I order. What do I need to look for in the amps spec to determine which of the 2, 4 or 8 I go for?

Just found this if it helps:

Minimum Impedance Unbridged 2 ohms
Minimum Impedance Bridged 4 Ohms

Also just to correct myself, it's a 5 channel amp:

RMS Power (4 ohms) 55 watts x 4 channels + 225 watts x 1 channel
RMS Power (2 ohms) 75 watts x 4 channels + 360 watts x 1 channel

Sparky · 16 Apr 2010 at 21:03

gurdas said:
I think i'll just go for 1 quality sub then. I think i'll set a budget of £200, I obviously want quality as I can't stand distortion/bad sound. I've seen the RE subs are around the £300 mark brand new, what is the next best option? I guess I want the best for my price really. Also how do I determine what size sub enclosure is best, do I go for ported or sealed?

Edit: thanks iaind, i'll look into JL.

I have a pair of RE 8's in the boot, very controlled and drop quite well.

Participant · 16 Apr 2010 at 22:33

gurdas said:
Glad you brought that up actually, was going to ask them on Monday which one I should go for before I order. What do I need to look for in the amps spec to determine which of the 2, 4 or 8 I go for?

Just found this if it helps:

Minimum Impedance Unbridged 2 ohms
Minimum Impedance Bridged 4 Ohms

Also just to correct myself, it's a 5 channel amp:

RMS Power (4 ohms) 55 watts x 4 channels + 225 watts x 1 channel
RMS Power (2 ohms) 75 watts x 4 channels + 360 watts x 1 channel

Ideally with a 5 channel amp you'd be running the fronts actively. However with a passive setup, bridge the two pairs of front channels and run them at 4 ohms and ~100W into your Focals. Run the Rainbows from the head unit.

The 5th (sub) channel would give 360 watts into a 12W3v3-2 (2ohm, single voice coil), which should be just about enough.

Check that the amp allows the 5th channel to run at 2 ohms whilst the other 4 are running at 4 ohms (it should do). If so, you definitely want a sub that will take advantage of the extra power your amp makes at 2 ohms.

ironman · 16 Apr 2010 at 23:25

Robbie G said:
Ideally with a 5 channel amp you'd be running the fronts actively. However with a passive setup, bridge the two pairs of front channels and run them at 4 ohms and ~100W into your Focals. Run the Rainbows from the head unit.

The 5th (sub) channel would give 360 watts into a 12W3v3-2 (2ohm, single voice coil), which should be just about enough.

Check that the amp allows the 5th channel to run at 2 ohms whilst the other 4 are running at 4 ohms (it should do). If so, you definitely want a sub that will take advantage of the extra power your amp makes at 2 ohms.

Thanks for that really helpful. The spec for the focal comps say the max power is 160w. Would it make sense to bridge the two pairs of front channels at 2 ohms and 150w or am I talking rubbish?

elmuzzy66. · 17 Apr 2010 at 06:11

Is the max power peak or rms? Check the nominal power of the speakers if that makes sense. Its been ages since ive done any ice, remeber the days when we use to bridge 3 cars into one big system

ironman · 17 Apr 2010 at 09:57

The nominal power is 80w. Is that the ideal wattage that should be provided?

Reality Bites · 17 Apr 2010 at 23:08

gurdas said:
Interesting, are they 6.5" speakers in the front? Guess i'll have to do some research as to what depth I have to work with.

What year was this scooby?

It's a 2004....he had to get shallow mount versions though.

Reality Bites · 17 Apr 2010 at 23:11

I would personally stick to a sealed sub enclosure....much more controlled and musical bass. as suggested, a four channel amp with the rears bridged for the sub is ideal for what you want. I would also agree about the post suggesting you mute (or really turn down) the rears

Fr0dders · 18 Apr 2010 at 00:22

somebody say ice ?

Yo-Dawg-I-Heard-You-Like-Ice-Cube-In-Your-Ice-T-full.jpg

ironman · 18 Apr 2010 at 09:26

Reality Bites said:
It's a 2004....he had to get shallow mount versions though.

Same style as mine then, didn't go for shallow mount, instead have got fixtures adjusted so they fit, good thing is that they have been fitted to a scoob previously so it will just go straight in.

Reality Bites · 18 Apr 2010 at 13:31

gurdas said:
Same style as mine then, didn't go for shallow mount, instead have got fixtures adjusted so they fit, good thing is that they have been fitted to a scoob previously so it will just go straight in.

To be honest, he got shallow mount being worried 'normal' depth speakers would hit the glass but there was plenty of room.

I would have gone for a 10" sub rather than an 8" if it were mine.

Participant · 18 Apr 2010 at 20:54

gurdas said:
Thanks for that really helpful. The spec for the focal comps say the max power is 160w. Would it make sense to bridge the two pairs of front channels at 2 ohms and 150w or am I talking rubbish?

That would only work if your speakers are 2ohms (they're far less common). If speakers are 4 ohm there's nothing (that I know of) that you can do to make them show the amp 2 ohms. In any case the max power being 160W would they'd like around 80W RMS. This means that bridging the front two channels into ~100W RMS would be perfect. Just keep the gains low.

ironman · 28 Apr 2010 at 15:15

An update, all the stuff has been ordered and delivered! Just in Singapore at the moment waiting to get back to get it all fitted

One last thing I need to sort out is the sound deadening. Any recommendations on what I should go with for doors/boot, i'm sure there is a cost effective way of doing it rather than spending £1000 on some of that expensive stuff!

Cheers

daz · 28 Apr 2010 at 16:39

gurdas said:
An update, all the stuff has been ordered and delivered! Just in Singapore at the moment waiting to get back to get it all fitted One last thing I need to sort out is the sound deadening. Any recommendations on what I should go with for doors/boot, i'm sure there is a cost effective way of doing it rather than spending £1000 on some of that expensive stuff!

Cheers

Dynamat extreme is very good where space is limited, but in your boot etc to stop the rattles I'd recommend using several layers of flashing tape.