Idle temp of 59c on a c2d E6400 @ 3.2 Ghz

Dappy

Dappy

Dappy

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Idle temp of 59c on a c2d E6400 @ 3.2 Ghz **RESOVLED!**

The idle temp on my overclocked E6400 c2d @ 3.2ghz hovers around 57c. I have a Gigabyte Aurora 3D case and i'm now thinking it may be the case to blame. When I remove the side door temps drop by 10c so thinking the 3 x 120mm stock fans weren't adequate I replaced them with Akasa Ambers which didn't make much difference. My cooler is a Arctic Freezer Pro and have cleaned and re-applied AS5 paste with no joy. Even at stock speeds it hovers around 50c.

I'm thinking to get a new case or cpu cooler but can't decide. Any ideas?

Thanks :)
 
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Millwall.FC said:
iv got the case and for me it performs well, better to get a cpu cooler first seeing as its the cheapest option
Click to expand...

Just out of interest have you got the perspex window or mesh window door on yours?

I was thinking of changing mine for the mesh windows but heard that could cause airflow problems in the case.
 
Dappy said:
Just out of interest have you got the perspex window or mesh window door on yours?

I was thinking of changing mine for the mesh windows but heard that could cause airflow problems in the case.
Click to expand...

iv got the mesh black version, maybe not having the mesh is making your temps high. if i put my hand on the mesh a lot of airflow is going into the case.
 
Millwall.FC said:
iv got the mesh black version, maybe not having the mesh is making your temps high. if i put my hand on the mesh a lot of airflow is going into the case.
Click to expand...

Well I've disabled the over clocking on the CPU back to 2.13ghz and it's still hovering around 57c so i'm going to get a cooler with better motherboard fixing retaining clips and drill some ventilation holes in the perspex window on my case as I think the side vent would help a lot with overall case cooling. The front case fan gets blocked by the HDD cage so that won't help airflow for starters.

Thanks for your help :)
 
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if the temps drop by 10 degrees with the side off you're problem is more to do with air flow than the cpu cooler imo.

what fan layout do you have in the case ?
 
I think it's the Arctic Cooler Freezer 7 tbh. They're not great coolers, and occasinally they make one that simply doesn't cool well (I own one!) - although there are a fair amount of people with good ones, there's certainly a few with bad ones. There's been a few members on here who had bad temps with an ACF7, but got much better temps when they bought a more expensive cooler.

edit: be careful drilling holes in perspex! the chances are you will crack it. Drill small 'pilot' holes first, and slowly work up the size of the holes... just drilling a big hole straight away will probably put too much stress on the plastic ;)
 
Its not the cooler. It cant be. Not with those temps.

Replace it with the stock cooler, what are the temps like then?

Could be a concave/convex cpu. ul. get out the sand paper.

But those temps seem very high - even if it is a ACF7. It should be lower.
 
mp260767 said:
if the temps drop by 10 degrees with the side off you're problem is more to do with air flow than the cpu cooler imo.

what fan layout do you have in the case ?
Click to expand...

I have 1x 120mm Akasa Amber intake fan and 2x Akasa Amber 120mm rear exhaust fans. I fitted these fans in place of the stock fans in the hope this would help with the airflow but didn't make much difference, if any.

I think the main problem with airflow in this particular case is the HDD cage is based side on right in front of the intake fan. Plus the intake fan has a paper filter which could decrease airflow.
 
any chance you can drill the drive cage leaving the holes to attach the drives in place but remove as much of the metal as possible ?
 
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mp260767 said:
any chance you can drill the drive cage leaving the holes to attach the drives in place but remove as much of the metal as possible ?
Click to expand...

Here's a pic of the HDD cage blocking the intake fan:

68856.jpg


I've removed the black plastic storage box and the hard disk is mounted at the very top of the drive cage.

Would I need any more holes than the factory drilled ones?

Edit: Just done another test with the side cover off. Before removing the cover the idle temp in was 59c and since removing the cover the idle cpu temp has dropped to 46c which is a big drop in temps. So I'm going to drill some ventilation holes in the perspex window first to see how that goes.

The load temp with the cover off is 68c. Would lapping or another cooler help with the load temps?

Thanks :)
 
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as others have said! the air flow in ** case needs to be increased. afanin the side, blowing in pluss 1 in the top blowing out would help.

also sounds like u have achip like mine, convex :( do a test with razor blade to make sure. if keeping the chip for awhile then consider lapping. but with price drops round the cornner. if can afford new chip and hope ** lucky next time. thatway u have a better chance of selling the 1 u have that still has a warranty.
 
staffyuk said:
as others have said! the air flow in ** case needs to be increased. afanin the side, blowing in pluss 1 in the top blowing out would help.

also sounds like u have achip like mine, convex :( do a test with razor blade to make sure. if keeping the chip for awhile then consider lapping. but with price drops round the cornner. if can afford new chip and hope ** lucky next time. thatway u have a better chance of selling the 1 u have that still has a warranty.
Click to expand...

I understand the airflow in the case needs to be improved. My last thread was referring to the high load temps I got with the door removed were just as high as with the door closed. So I was asking if lapping the cpu & heatsink or changing the cpu cooler would help.

Like you say it might be worth selling the cpu and upgrading when the next round of price drops happen and hope I get a better CPU. Since I've got just under 3 years warranty on this cpu left it's putting me off the lapping idea. :)

Would just lapping the heatsink help?
 
Lapping the heatsink likely wouldn't help much, but you could give it a go.

Get your processor out and hold something very straight against it (I used a metal "engineering ruler"), then hold it upto the light and see if you have any light creeping between the "straight object" and the proecssors IHS... if you can't see light creeping between it, then your processors IHS isn't anything to worry about.

I know an ACF7 is supposed to be better temperatures than that, but maybe your ACF7 is a dud. If you have tried everything else, you probably did get a bad ACF7! :(

I have lapped my IHS and still get the temps (45 idle ~54 load). Like I say I rekon I have a bad ACF7 - hopefully will prove this when I get my thermalright ultra extreme through :p
 
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lapping the hs would only really help if the chip was flat, as there machined. your still going to have the problem if it is the chip been convexed.

been thinking the same lapp or sell on ebay. buy a Q6600 instead for around same price paid for this. going to loose out on about 50 quid by doing so i would have thought. but not really happy about having to sell a dodge chip. cos thats wht it seems to me. 45c idle 1.25 under volted, 53 with in 2 seconds of starting orthus. really is bad when using w/c loop. if i used stock cooler would hit around the same as urs 63c with 1.25 volts. :(
 
Yeah, they should do.

If it runs over I think 61'c with the stock cooler, it's not within specification so you should be able to send it back to intel! Mine is *just* within specification (and I lapped it) so they wouldn't take it back :(
 
dont think a new cooler will help tbh 68 isnt too bad but even the noctua and titan would still leave it in the 60 range form what i;'ve seen.

any chance that drive cage can be removed and you can suspend the disk drive ?
 
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