Improving my heating controls - going smart - advice welcomed

Demon said:
Assuming yours is similar to mine, the TADO app wizard is very detailed, it gets you to power off, it takes you through taking the front panel off, dropping the control section down etc, where to route the cable, how to connect.. Fairly easy.

It's absolutely fine to take the front cover off IMO, the Worcester Bosch is really well designed for service, the control panel is hinged so it all comes down and is easy to access. I don't think TADO would offer the installation guide in the App if it wasn't appropriate.
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Thanks, really helpful. Do you wire in the 'normal' 230V switched live as well as the EMS connections, or only the EMS connections?

Do you know if I can access the app instructions for my boiler model without purchasing the device to see what it says?
 
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Also using Tado here since 2020. My boiler is a Valiant EcoTec 831 iirc on my small 2 bedroom flat With a couple of rads.

Setup was quick and simple as I already had a wired Honeywell thermostat (that common one) in the kitchen area that was part of the build. The existing wiring went into the Tado head unit and all was good.

I’ve got 2x TRV’s, one for the bedroom and one for the combined Kitchen/Living room space.

Since my elderly parents have the same boiler, I also replaced their wired thermostat with a Tado. Made sense since they always have the phone on them.
 
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danlightbulb said:
Thanks, really helpful. Do you wire in the 'normal' 230V switched live as well as the EMS connections, or only the EMS connections?

Do you know if I can access the app instructions for my boiler model without purchasing the device to see what it says?
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No, if using the Digital +/- connections on the Tado smart wireless receiver, you only wire those 2 connections to the boilers BB or EMS connections, it gets power from that as well, no mains at all (switched or not).

I've just changed model to a Greenstar 25si of your vintage (its says 2011-2013) and picked any controller (e.g. DT10), the installation is identical to mine, turn off power, remove front cover, remove the cap holding the programmer in, remove programmer with ribbon cable/connector, pop in a blanking cap (optional!) and wire to the BB connections internally, then to the +/- digital on the wireless receiver..

Obviously you'll then get rid of your Drayton Digistat and it's wireless module, so less clutter.

TRV Wise, you'd need to remove one of the Danfoss TRV Tops (all mine unscrew, but not sure with Danfoss) there is a compatibility guide on the Tado site showing the valves underneath it's compatible with:
N5I7IRu.jpg
 
Demon said:
No, if using the Digital +/- connections on the Tado smart wireless receiver, you only wire those 2 connections to the boilers BB or EMS connections, it gets power from that as well, no mains at all (switched or not).

I've just changed model to a Greenstar 25si of your vintage (its says 2011-2013) and picked any controller (e.g. DT10), the installation is identical to mine, turn off power, remove front cover, remove the cap holding the programmer in, remove programmer with ribbon cable/connector, pop in a blanking cap (optional!) and wire to the BB connections internally, then to the +/- digital on the wireless receiver..

Obviously you'll then get rid of your Drayton Digistat and it's wireless module, so less clutter.

TRV Wise, you'd need to remove one of the Danfoss TRV Tops (all mine unscrew, but not sure with Danfoss) there is a compatibility guide on the Tado site showing the valves underneath it's compatible with:
N5I7IRu.jpg
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Excellent thank you. Just need to source the bits now then.
 
Looking like a standard TRV head replacement for the existing Danfoss RAS-C ones will come in at circa £15 a unit.

Anyone know whether I can swap the TRV head for any other brands or do I have to stick with Danfoss?
 
danlightbulb said:
Looking like a standard TRV head replacement for the existing Danfoss RAS-C ones will come in at circa £15 a unit.

Anyone know whether I can swap the TRV head for any other brands or do I have to stick with Danfoss?
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Going by this page for a RAS-C2 head:

Danfoss Randall RAS-C2 Replacement Head

www.heatingcontrolsonline.co.uk www.heatingcontrolsonline.co.uk

It states "Can also be used to replace heads on RAS-C TRVs" and has a picture of the head which looks like yours, so definitely not generic.

The RAS-CK (first image in that picture above) with the basic 30mm x 1.5mm thread is how all mine are (from about 4 different manufacturers), I've replaced 2 by buying new cheap TRVs for £6 (The local plumbing supplies 'contract' range that was recommended by a plumber) and swapped the heads over and all seem interchangeable.
 
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Demon said:
Going by this page for a RAS-C2 head:

Danfoss Randall RAS-C2 Replacement Head

www.heatingcontrolsonline.co.uk www.heatingcontrolsonline.co.uk

It states "Can also be used to replace heads on RAS-C TRVs" and has a picture of the head which looks like yours, so definitely not generic.

The RAS-CK (first image in that picture above) with the basic 30mm x 1.5mm thread is how all mine are (from about 4 different manufacturers), I've replaced 2 by buying new cheap TRVs for £6 (The local plumbing supplies 'contract' range that was recommended by a plumber) and swapped the heads over and all seem interchangeable.
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Yeah I found the Danfoss Randall range C2 as part of my search, but didn't know if I could go for Drayton TRV4's.

I tried taking off the TRV last night on one radiator and couldn't get it off, so not sure if I need a set of pliers for more power or if Im not trying to take it off correctly. I thought the black knurled section at the bottom would just unscrew counter clockwise, but it wouldn't turn.
 
Ah ive got some of them off now.

These are the TRV valves and the pin seems to be moving ok.

ODaVWN8.png

Some are horizontal, some vertical:

V1gfKaj.png


So am I locked in to Danfoss Randall C2 if I replace with standard non-smart TRVs? The Danfoss ones are more like £17 each though.
 
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danlightbulb said:
Ah ive got some of them off now.

These are the TRV valves and the pin seems to be moving ok.

ODaVWN8.png

Some are horizontal, some vertical:

V1gfKaj.png


So am I locked in to Danfoss Randall C2 if I replace with standard non-smart TRVs? The Danfoss ones are more like £17 each though.
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I think so, looking at the Tado chart, it does list a few models of Danfoss/Honeywell but it's definitely not the basic generic types..

You could buy the RAS C2 complete TRVs for £17.99 from screwfix and see if you can sell the bodies on for £10 each on ebay or something and just try the newer C2 heads..
 
Still undecided on whether to go full on EU version Tado or not.

My boiler manual says set the temperature dial to 1 or 2 to maximise efficiency. This would be 47-50 degrees C according to the manual which I guess maintains condensing mode.

I don't know how the Tado would choose to set the flow temperature. Would it choose to set a lower temperature and bring the house up slowly, or would it choose to set a high temperature and bring the house up to temperature quickly before leveling off.

I suppose this is the crux with smart stuff isn't it - you've got to hand over the control to the device rather than doing it yourself. Is the device smarter than me adjusting the dial on the boiler when it gets colder.
 
Also just to post back, I have two new rads in the extension, the only two I didn’t have matching grey trv’s on, and they are both the same as the OP’s danfoss valves, the Tado TRV adapters which came with the TRVs fit perfectly and easily, so can say the TADO stuff will fit out the box.
 
I successfully acquired Danfoss RAS-C2 TRVs, brand new unboxed, for £7 a unit off Ebay. Fitted no probs and look loads better than the battered originals.

Now trying to source new lockshield valve covers but can't get the original ones for the valves that are fitted.
 
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Do any of you have a boiler with built in wi-fi? If so can you connect a smart thermostat quite easily, e.g. without physically wiring anything into the boiler itself?

I have done a bit of Googling but it’s still a bit opaque to me.
 
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